| Author |
Message |
    
Bobodean1
| | Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 07:57 pm: | 
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I just got two hayden sandwich adapters with thermostats delivered to my door for $79. They came with the barb type fittings, hose clamps and O rings. Got them from a guy whose email is TMvTaylor@aol.com |
Grndskpr
| | Posted on Monday, September 20, 2004 - 09:05 am: |
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Looking for information on oil drain back lines, or should i say how to install drain lines from the heads to the cases, i have seen this done several times and have been told it actually adds HP, but not sure about the work involved, if its in the heads or rocker covers or
Any help would be great, or maybe a point in the right direction
thanks
R |
Buell_zen
| | Posted on Saturday, September 25, 2004 - 06:05 pm: |
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Road_thing, sorry to be so long in replying to your note. I just saw it. I live in Clear Lake across from the Space Center.
Bob |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2004 - 02:03 pm: |
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They are drilled into the heads, basically in the lowest point of the upper cavity on the exhaust valve side. Some people plumb them to the crankcase (sump or return feed), cam chest, or use a 4-stage oil pump (which I believe is best). I've also seen a bike with a tee going into the oil pump feed line. I'm not sure how well that works, I imagine that'll pick up a bit of air. The stock oil drains are pipe plugged.
I've looked into it...never done it...but I will do it eventually after I get a new set of heads.
Find a good machinist/engine builder and good luck! Call up any of the Buell/Harley speed shops and they should be able to help you out. |
Buellkowski
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 02:59 pm: |
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Oil cooler vs. aluminum oil tank vs. synth oil: which do the experienced tuber-riding BadWeBbers prefer for frequent low-air flow (stuck in traffic) applications?
I noticed an archived exchange about 1 1/2 years ago between Blake and DJKaplan that got very theoretical. I'm interested in any how-does-it-feel-on-the-inside-of-your-thigh anecdotes. |
Blake
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 03:33 pm: |
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In order of implementation...
1. Synthetic oil (to better protect the engine against extreme heat)
2. Oil cooler
3. Aluminum oil tank
None of the above will appreciably change the heat radiating from the exhaust headers, which is what bakes your thigh. Suggest wearing loose fitting jeans or better yet, riding pants. |
Blake
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 03:35 pm: |
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Off topic, but next to not wearing tight pants, header wrap is by far the most effective measure I've personally used to reduce the hot thigh problem. It works very well. A Jet Hot coating did next to nothing for me. |
Buellkowski
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 04:46 pm: |
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Thanks Blake. My goal isn't to cool my thighs; my thighs are simply the closest thing to a temp gauge I have (they also tell me which way the wind is blowing  ). I'm trying to attack the problem of potential overheating in a low-airflow environment in a logical order. Synth oil #1, got it. After that? Aluminum oil tanks are easy, but how effective? Oil coolers are thorough, but ugly and need airflow. |
José_quiñones
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 06:05 pm: |
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after the synthetic oil but before everything else, get the Fan Kit that Buell sells for X1/S3's.
Just be ready cause it will blow very hot air on your right thigh when it's running. But more importantly it will keep the engine happy when stuck in traffic. |
Blake
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 06:35 pm: |
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That fan will undoubtedly help cool the cylinders/heads some, but that is not its intended purpose. That fan was developed to cool the throttle body of the fuel injected bikes. In some countries where the gasoline is comprised of a more volatile mixture, it would vaporize before exiting the injectors, a big problem. The fan kit JQ shows above solved that problem.
Guys, I live in Texas. I've race a 100 rwhp 1250cc Cyclone in the middle of the Summer here. I ride on 100F+ days in traffic. I run synthetic oil. No worries. An oil cooler certainly won't hurt as long as the oil can achieve a decently hot operating temperature. |
Road_thing
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 08:54 pm: |
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Guys, I live in Texas.
Kilgore??? Shoot, that's Oklahoma!
rt
 |
José_quiñones
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 09:30 pm: |
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From the Buell Website:
quote:Designed with the urban rider in mind.
This thermostatically controlled fan provides cooling when you need it most.
A well hidden electric fan blows air across the engine.
The fan kit significantly reduces temperature in fuel-injection systems.
I ride in Washington DC traffic every day, second worst in the Nation.
I have ridden in DC traffic with and without the fan. It makes a big difference, believe me. |
Buellkowski
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 10:07 am: |
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I did read Blake's post last year about the fan and it makes sense. The oiling system is an essential component of the engine's cooling. Bone-stock, where does the hot oil lose most of it's heat? Maybe that's the spot where attention should be paid for a mild modification. Or should the mod be made where the oil gets the hottest?
(Message edited by buellkowski on October 26, 2004) |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 11:03 am: |
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I have a fan as well. There is a sensor bolted to the top of the front rockerbox that controls the fan. It comes on after while if you're not moving, and after about 5 minutes, it will turn back off. That tells me that it is cooling the engine regardless of whaqt it was designed to do.
(Message edited by hootowl on October 26, 2004) |
José_quiñones
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 04:38 pm: |
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Air Cooling |
Ara
| | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 03:12 pm: |
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I have a '97 S3 and partially solved the hot right leg problem by installing a heat shield where the S1's have them. Part of the heat that your right leg is exposed to is caused by the very close proximity of the rear jug to the right leg. The heat shield mitigates that nicely, is cheap, has no moving parts, cannot fail, and looks good. |
Buellkowski
| | Posted on Friday, October 29, 2004 - 12:49 pm: |
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What do you suppose the rate of oil circulation is thru the tank? Yes, it depends on rpm's, but I'm inquiring about low airflow situations, so let's assume at idle. |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Friday, October 29, 2004 - 02:02 pm: |
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"I noticed an archived exchange about 1 1/2 years ago between Blake and DJKaplan that got very theoretical."
People actually read the drivel I post? |
Buellkowski
| | Posted on Friday, October 29, 2004 - 02:17 pm: |
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 Knowledge is power! |
P0p0k0pf
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 03:51 pm: |
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Anyone have any experience with Redline's 20w60HD?
Their website states:
--------
Our motor oil specifically blended for the needs of American air-cooled V-Twin motorcycle engines provides the hightest degree of protection and cleanliness available. Provides 50% more bearing viscosity than a petroleum 20W50. Note: Our customers are finding that most Japanese V-twins or "metric cruisers" word well on Red Line's 10W40.
----------
I know there is a lot of discussion about Mobil 1 synthetic and Mobil 1 V-twin. This oil looks like it's worth a try.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?pvID=108&prodID=45&subcatID=14 |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2004 - 04:49 pm: |
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Dodged a bullet last weekend!
Perhaps this should go in the accidents and mishaps page, but it turned out fine. Praise Jesus! 
Anyway, a buddy of mine has an SV-650, and the friendly local Yamaha dealer stripped out his oil drain plug (sound familiar?). He needed it fixed, and asked for my help. Mistake #1.
He brought it over. I had pre-acquired a 12mm heli coil kit and drill bit, and a 12mm replacement drain bolt.
We drained the oil, and inspected the obviously butchered threads. Nice. They somehow managed to stretch the drain plug bolt in addition to mostly stripping the case. Their solution, of course, was to get a new drain plug, wrap it in teflon tape, and wedge it in the mangled hole and send my buddy on his way. Nice. There are bad dealers of every brand.
The first problem was that we could not get the bike high enough off the ground to get the drill bit and drill square. Solved that easily by laying the bike over on a bag of mulch sitting on two milk crates. Extreme lean, and gave us the necessary clearance.
We drilled the hole, nice and square, using a shop vac the entire time to try and keep as much garbage out of the oil pan as possible. So far, so good.
Then I started thinking (mistake #2). What about that little metal tip that will break off the heli coil after it is inserted all the way? What would I do if that thing gets loose up in the oil pan? Am I going to end up splitting the cases on an SV-650 just to pull out that stupid little bit of steel?
So I had a solution. I still wince when I think of it. It seemed so reasonable looking forward, yet impossibly stupid in hindsight.
I had a long piece of nylon strapping, like that goes on backpacks. I fed it up into the drain plug hole, it pretty much filled the entire cavity, and would clearly be able to be grabbed with a pair of forceps and extracted back out after the fact. Even if it got "lost" up there, how hard would it be to fashion a "fish hook" out of a piece or wire and bring it back to the hole?
So, after consulting with the owner, I put it all the way up and in (it could not dangle out and still put in the heli-coil). We then put in the heli coil, and (naturally) were easily able to snap off the tab with a pair of needle nose without loosing anything.
So then it's time to pull out the strap. You know where this is going, dontcha. It was easy to grab with the forceps, no problem. But when I tried to pull it out, it would get *stuck* *tight*. The Heli coil had made the hole smaller, and there were metal burs from the drilling sticking up into the case.
When you feed the strap in from the end, it fits fine, almost zero resistance. But how do you find the end once it's in the case? You grab what you can find, and pull, which is then trying to pull out *two* strap thicknesses simultaneously. Between the metal burs, and the narrower plug opening, it was *not* going *anywhere*.
My first comment, as much to myself as my buddy, was "relax and take your time, if you find the end, you can work it out eventually".
But about 45 minutes into trying to do just that, I felt physically sick, impossibly stupid, and growingly concerned. Its amazing the physical response thinking about having to take that idiot motorcycle into a Suzuki dealer to split the cases just to get a nylon strap out of the oil pan. I was sick to my stomach, my hands were shaking, and I wanted to beat my head against the crankcase.
I took a while to regroup, sat on Court's milk crate (which arguably got me into this rediculous situation in the first place) and thought.
I could mitigate the burs, and maybe even the narrowness of the hole given the 2x strap thickness, by applying tension on the part of the strap I could grab, and using a narrow screwdriver to pry in the edges, going around in a circle. This would allow me to "compress" the strap into the narrow hole from the top, instead of ripping up the strap from the bottom.
About the time I had lost all hope (though it was only really about 10 minutes into using that technique), I noticed one side of the strap was coming more easily then the other. About 5 more minutes, and I discovered what I thought was a frayed up torn middle of the strap somewhere (from my previous attemps at extraction) was actually one end.
It popped free, the strap was not 1x thick through the hole, and I pulled the entire length out easily with my fingertips (removing lots of metal shavings).
Hallejauh! Praise Jesus! I Believe!
So we then propped the bike back upright, poured a couple quarts of cheap oil through the crankcase (which did not flush out any more stuff then we already pulled out between the shop vac and strap), and buttoned it back up.
The pitch of the 12mm drain plug, naturally, did not match the pitch of the heli coil (even though it appeared too before the heli-coil was installed... duhh... its a spring at that point, it will fit anything). So one more trip to Home Depot, picking up the right bolt and a crush washer, and we were good to go. What a relief.
In hindsight (20/20), as this can easily need to be done to a Buell someday...
1) Don't put anything in the oil pan. Like in medicine, less is more. Use compressed air blowing in the fill hole, a shop vac sucking around the drill bit, then just do a LOT of flushing when you are done. Lots of low viscosity oil is far cheaper then splitting your cases (SV-650) or drilling a hole in your swingarm (Buell XB).
2) If you are going to think things through, *really* think them through. The 2x thickness problem is foreseeable.
3) Even after you thought it through, don't do it anyway. Less is more.
4) The heli coil appears to stay put very well. Even stripping out the replacement oil drain plug with the wrong threads, the heli coil showed no movement, and no damage. They are a VERY durable repair. In the application, it is very simple to inspect at every oil change anyway, but I doubt it will ever go anywhere.
5) It's not a big nor hard repair, so long as you don't get stupid.
I guess the alternative would have been worse. Hearing a "sproing", only to never see that little heli-coil tab again, and having to split the cases (or ride in fear for the next decade) wondering when that thing is going to score a crank or bend a valve. That being said, I think the risk of loosing something in the oil pan that you can't recover is much higher then the risk of loosing that tab if it is a big enough hole to get forceps or needle nose pliars in there. It's just not that hard to hang onto, and work loose.
So it turned out fine, though there were some very stressful moments! |
Bomber
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2004 - 05:16 pm: |
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hey, Reep -- you sure we're not related?
good landing, sir -- that's all that counts
future reference, thick grease on the drill bit and sllllooooowwwww speed will limit the shavings in the cracnkcase -- also, those little tabs are easily secured with skinny lil vice grips --
learned the hard way, both lessons, of course ;-} |
Hans
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2004 - 06:10 pm: |
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Ha, Excellent story. This mistake was a beauty. I wonder if there are also Helicoils without tabs, which have to break off after total insertion. Never noticed an off braking tab. Mmmmm. 
Hans |
Tripper
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 23, 2004 - 07:34 pm: |
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Next time go to the corner auto parts store and purchase a 1 over drain plug. Screw it in. Fill with oil. Ride! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2004 - 09:13 am: |
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Thanks Bomber, those are great tips.
Hans... thats what lead me down this slippery slope. I had slapped 4 helicoils in my derby cover screw holes on my M2 (two were already shot, two were weak, figured I would just clean them all up).
I was careful, had shop rags wedged in there, worked slowly, and it went well. Two weeks later, I changed my primary fluid for an unrelated issue, and guess what was stuck to the magnet on my drain plug? One of those little tabs. No idea how it got in there, I thought the holes were plugged, and I *thought* they were all were accounted for.
Don't know what would have happened if that thing had gotten inside a bearing, or between a couple gears, or in the clutch pack.
Tripp... I seriously considered that, but figured if I was going to tap it anyway (and the threads in the case were a mess, so I was), I might as well put in a Heli-Coil, as that bolt sees a lot of use. I thought about a self tapping replacement bolt, but only wanted to tap the thing once, not every time he changed the oil or crossthreaded the bolt. |
Bomber
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2004 - 11:50 am: |
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there ARE helicoil-like products that don't have the little tab thingie -- installed with basically a nutted bolt, if that makes sense --
not easliy found in the average NAPA/PepBoiz/Hardware store, though, and, when one needs a heli-coil, one needs it like rightadamnway, in my experience ;-}
I'm really a whole lot better w/heli-coils than I'd like to be |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Friday, February 04, 2005 - 02:52 pm: |
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Hey, the first 2005 Oil post in the KV!
Okay lurkers in the deep bowels of the BadWeb - who here knows anything about running external oil return lines? Could anyone point me to a link or resource where I could see a picture or an explanation of how to do this for my M2?
This sounds like a simple and cheap mod. Even if there were little real gains other than a racy appearance, I think it would be a fun project.
Anyone? I can wait. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, February 04, 2005 - 03:04 pm: |
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Jose indicated the race team was running ones sourced from an old 883 I think... he would be a great resource. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, February 04, 2005 - 03:25 pm: |
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Fireman Jim is running them on his Bonneville S2.
He needs to post pictures!
You must have read the Cycle World article!
I was thinking the same thing.
They are however running a 3 stage pump with 1 stage for the head returns. |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Friday, February 04, 2005 - 04:38 pm: |
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Brad,first ones were done by Nallin when they did the original motor for my Bonneville bike on Thunderstorm heads.A spot is machined into head near exhaust port and tapped for 1/8 pipe thread,the oil drain holes are tapped the same and allen plugs installed,umbrella valves gone.I did the same on the XB heads from Aaron on this 1250 motor and had local machine shop do head holes.Lines run into sump.Drill and tap(1/8 pipe) 2 holes in bottom of L/S crankcase between the 2 rear case bolts.I run XB covers and breathers on both motors so oil lines are cleaned up and have very little/none spooge.I also have crank scraper in Bonnevile bike.Only problem on S-2's is need to grind a notch in front mount to clear fitting.I will try to remember to take some pics when I get off work. |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Friday, February 04, 2005 - 05:56 pm: |
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Reep, Blu, and Fi,
You guys are hardcore lurkers. I thought it would take weeks to get a reply down here. I had actually heard of the external oil return lines before the Cycle World article and was always curious, but had never actually seen them. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Monday, February 07, 2005 - 12:51 pm: |
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I've seen external oil lines plumbed into the cam chest. That seems like an elegant solution. |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 08, 2005 - 03:16 am: |
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OK,finally took a couple of pics of oil line set-up.
 |
Mduece
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 23, 2005 - 11:35 pm: |
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lil help here?
started to get my bike runnin for the new year i put in a new voltage regulator and battery.(prior ones were toasted). i checked the oil and it was a quart low i thought what the??? so i replaced it with 20-50 HD oil. put the cap on and fired it up. it is a cold blooded bike and it is like 40 degrees out so i stood there and coaxed it to continue runing. then the oil plug blew out and out came that quart of oil. what the heck? i then decided to drain all of the oil out of the bike and replaced it with 3 quarts of 20-50 oil brought it back outside and started it same damn thing the oil tank has ALOT of pressure on it what is this sounding like a clog in a line too damn cold? |
Blake
| | Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2005 - 01:07 am: |
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Too much oil. Please do not over-fill. Capacity is only 2.5 quarts total so when refilling minus filter you only need just over two quarts. Only check/refill/top-off oil immediately after warm-down of warm engine. Some oil will drain from tank back into engine as it cools. |
Henrik
| | Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2005 - 08:31 am: |
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Mduece; you may have initially checked the oil level with the bike cold. Oil will often seep back down into the crank case from the oil tank, so when you initially check, it'll look like oil is low. However, when you start up the bike, oil will circulate back out of the crank case and into the oil tank. So, if you added oil prior to warming up, you now have *way* too much oil in the system all pressing back into the tank, causing the pop and oil spray you experienced.
Hope this helps
Henrik |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Thursday, March 24, 2005 - 09:38 am: |
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Yeah, they're right. No one learned that lesson harder than me. I added too much oil once and was standing right next to the bike with the seat off, blipping the throttle. I heard a POP! and the next thing I know, my face and shirt are splattered with oil and my oil cap launches itself straight up.
I wish I could see that happen to someone else - it must be pretty funny if it's not you. |
Bomber
| | Posted on Monday, April 11, 2005 - 01:38 pm: |
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question on Synth Oil Shelf Life --
I found about 3/4 case of Golden Spectro oil in thge way back portion of the entropy lab -- it's about 4 years old --
what's the shelf life on a synth oil, anywho? |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 01:55 pm: |
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I was plumbing some braided oil lines this weekend and got a nasty surprise. The oil pump had to be removed to get an AN adapter on the return side. After a looksie into the cam chest through that hole I found the dreaded oil pump drive gear wear. I'd say the teeth were worn through about 70%. I just have to make it 'till Friday. I am so glad to have caught it before a complete failure had occurred. |
Djkaplan
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 - 02:11 pm: |
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I check mine every oil change. Make sure you share the details when you change the gear! |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Friday, May 20, 2005 - 01:11 pm: |
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The gear is changed. It was pretty odd. The wear was only on one side. The teeth were worn to a sharp point. Hopefully it's bad heat treating...I guess the only other thing would be excessive pinion shaft runout. The oil pump spins smoothly and its gear was perfect. If I had only seen the "good" side things would've likely got ugly.
I also found all my lifters were out of spec so I'll be in there again soon to check things more thoroughly and replace those. I had to get it back together so I could get to work. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, May 20, 2005 - 03:41 pm: |
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Lucky you Rick, I think that problem has cost more Buell engines then anything else. I spotted mine early as well (see profile picture, taken with my coolpix while the part was still mounted in the bike after dropping the oil pump).
It's a shame it takes so much work to pull that gear (both rocker boxes). A local tech said it is possible to do it without pulling the rockerboxes if you rotate the engine to the right places while assembling.
Anybody seen this issue on the XB? |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2005 - 01:44 pm: |
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I bought S&S Quickie adjustable pushrods and lifter travel limiters. I need 'em for the cam I'm installing later on so I may as well get 'em now. Saves a lot of hassle and them collapsable tubes sure look sweet. |
2000m2
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2005 - 07:06 pm: |
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I was wondering what oil filters are compatible with our bikes? Other than the stock HD filters of course. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 06:20 am: |
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I always ran the Ford FL1A compatible filters on my M2. Worked well, and looked right, but use a big hose clamp and some wire to keep it from spinning off on hard riding. |
Ara
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 01:04 pm: |
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You can use the FL-300, too. It's about 2/3 the size of the FL1A and you might like the look better. I've used the Mobil 1 equivalent of the FL-300 (Mobil's part number is M1-204) for several years and I'm very satisfied with the fit and quality. I've done the hose clamp/safety wire thing that Reep suggests, too, because he suggested it. Smart man. :-) |
2000m2
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 07:25 pm: |
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You don't by chance have a picture of that hose clamp/wire setup, do you? |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 01:48 pm: |
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Now that my motor is in pieces again I checked the pinion shaft for run out. It was acceptable, .0015", so that apparently wasn't the cause of the drive gear failure. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 - 02:19 pm: |
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quote:I've done the hose clamp/safety wire thing that Reep suggests, too, because he suggested it. Smart man. :-)
LOL! If "smart" now means "sitting at the bottom of a long twisty downhill section of River Road, noting that my entire right leg and the bottom 2/3'rds of the bike is coated with a fresh batch of Mobil 1 15w50, and wondering how the hell I managed to not crash"... then yes, I am *very* smart indeed 
I just used a big hose clamp, like you would use for your clothes dryer vent. Either clamp a wire in there that is anchored down somewhere else, or just leave the tail of the clamp sticking out so that it "snags" on the engine somewhere if the filter is trying to rotate off. I did both, both seemed to work fine, though the bit of wire made me feel better. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 12:45 pm: |
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Anyone have the Battle2Win article with drilling external oil drains? Can someone post it? I'm trying to figure out where exactly to drill the heads where it won't interfere with the front motor mount. |
Kdkerr2
| | Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 02:11 pm: |
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What is the advantage of an external oil drain?
KK |
Henrik
| | Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2005 - 10:42 pm: |
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For "safety wiring" the oil filter, I used an aircraft clamp:
I clamp it around the filter so the threaded stud buts up against the engine case when I tighten the clamp around the filter. Unless the clamp comes loose, the filter is not coming off.
Henrik
(edit: remember not to use a ratcheting box wrench to tighten the strap - not that I'd ever do such a silly thing - someone else must have mentioned it earlier - yeah, that's it ...)
(Message edited by Henrik on June 19, 2005) |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Monday, June 20, 2005 - 09:34 am: |
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Less crankcase windage and improved oil return from the top end (equaling less junk out the breathers). It also prevents a pool of oil from being continually cooked around the exhaust valve. Supposedly it keeps the top end cooler as well and can add a couple HP.
I'm trying to decide on the best way to drill the head without having to cut off any cooling fins or cut into my front motor mount. |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 12:38 pm: |
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Well fellas, my heads are drilled. The location I came up with is about the same Jim's but slightly lower and closer to exhaust port. I'm using 90 degree fittings off the heads and cut a recess in the front head for oil line clearance (so I won't have to cut the front mount so much). I just used a longer L shaped fitting on the rear head for clearance. I like it a lot. The local shop wouldn't cut 'em so I made me a jig. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 02:07 pm: |
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Henrik.... I would never be so stupid as to do something like that either. But I "speculate" that the filter can turn a quarter turn easily without starting to leak, so you could just use said box end wrench and leave an inch or so of rotation between the clamp bolt and the case. After you loosen the bolt again, after discovering the wrench is now a captive part of the bike.
Not that I would know for sure though |
Henrik
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:48 pm: |
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One could also just buy another wrench and call the one dangling from the oil filter a "quick disconnect" ... 
Henrik |
Court
| | Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 04:31 am: |
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I always keep my oil filter safety wired to avoid another award from Reg Pridmore like the one I have hanging on my wall.
Note: It is ENTIRELY POSSIBLE to do a VERY high speed 360o coming out of Turn 11 at HPT. IT is much easier when you have just lost the rubber seal between the oil filter and the motor case.
I, to this day, would give about anything to find a way to impute skill into this or take credit for it. Likley them most amazing piece of motobatics I've been a part of. Two bikes behind me went down (difficult to say if it was the oil or their laughter) and I, taken my the rapture of amazement that my $5K paint job was, well....still a $5k paint job, rode a nice straight AND BLACK line for the next 1/2 mile.
Lessons learned:
- Safety wire oil filter
- Learn to ride smarter and do "pre-flight"
- Learn, when you discharge fluids on a race track, to "Exit Stage Left" immediately so track workers are cleaning 100 yards not 1/2 miles
Court |
Hans
| | Posted on Friday, July 01, 2005 - 06:16 pm: |
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Dear Helena, be most welcome on this board.
Our loyalty towards Buell, and our sponsors goes so far that we don`t tolerate the promotion of copied (pirated) books. When you do a search about manuals you will read all the arguments about it.
Your message will be deleted by me (fresh custodian, and if I find out how to do that.)
Hans  |
Roly
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 02:20 pm: |
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hi what is the best oil to use in the engine,mineral full synt or semi. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2005 - 03:04 pm: |
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Yes. Next question?
Full synthetic lets it get hotter and last longer, high quality normal oil is probably fine for non heavy duty usage and with frequent changes.
Non synthetic oil can be measured as starting to break down at 1500 miles. Full synthetic will go 3000 miles before starting to break down. |
Jsunstar
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 11:05 am: |
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Im getting a nasty smell from my mobil-1 SYN oil... anyone else get this?
i just changed top end on my 95 s2 and when i started taking it apart, i noticed the parts smelled bad...The oil smelling almost burnt...although i ride hard, i change the oil pretty often (around 2000 or less miles) After the top end was changed out, I ran it and changed the oil after 100 miles then changed it again after 500 miles and It smells burnt still...
is this a common smell for synthetic oil?
any info would be helpful!
thanks
jason in the burgh of pitts |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 08:03 pm: |
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"I'm getting a nasty smell from my mobil-1 SYN oil..."
Is it from the Mobil 1 75W90? If you're using that in the primary, it has what I think is a sulphur based additive or something in it and has the classic "rotten eggs" sulphur smell.
If I sniff the 15W50 I use in the engine it has no remarkable odor. But the 75W90 in the primary has a pretty strong rotten eggs/sulphur smell to it.
If you want to compare the odor to something else, take a sniff of a jug of plumber's cutting oil, that is another heavily sulpherized oil.
Jack |
Jsunstar
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 11:02 pm: |
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thats a good discription of the smell...eggs...
I use Mobil 1 15W50. i used to use the harley syn3 stuff but i couldnt afford oil changes. the mobil, I buy in cases on sale and get it alot cheaper. its supposed to be good stuff.
anyway, i probably still have that SYN3 in the gearcase...would that smell?
jh |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 11:27 pm: |
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It would if you are in the process of losing a stator.
Been there, done that, remember the smell. |
Captainkirk
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 11:43 pm: |
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Reep is right on. |
Jsunstar
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2005 - 11:51 pm: |
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hmmm, why would a stator going smell in the oil?
ive never heard of anything even remotely like that...please enlighten me...quick! |
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