| Author | Message | ||
     Stan Bird (Stan) |
Rickie, Court, Cap - anyone- I read a couple of discussions in the past week about DOT4 / DOT5 brake fluid in the rear brakes. My '95 S2 has the DOT4 cap and I'm finally getting around to changing rear pads that I thought got trashed when I threw oil out the breather (quite a while back). I've had a long pedal throw and pretty much no rear brakes. Cleaned everything up with denatured alcohol, installed the new pads and rigged up the plastic tube into a jar with DOT5 (BelRay Purple) fluid in the bottom. Honey colored fluid and a lot of air come out - after a while of pumping and cracking the bleed screw (keeping the resevoir filled) I get to where I'm bottoming the pedal and getting nothing out (not a bit of brakes yet). The jar has a little layer of honey colored fluid under the fresh purple in the waste jar. Like oil and water. I'm not compressing air or pushing bubbles or anything - just bottoming the pedal. Resevoir is still full. No fluids are coming out anywhere else and I think I've added about the same as what has come out the bleed screw. Sounds like I've had DOT4 in the rear brakes. I probably put it in myself when I topped off after changing pads last year. That was the only time anyone other than a Buell dealership touched the brakes. I've got four vehicles and just might have read the cap to see what type of fluid to use in this one. Can anyone direct me to a description of the appropriate drill to run to remedy this situation - flushing doesn't seem to be happening. I think that one of the first recalls on the S2 was getting some stickers in the mail that we were supposed to put "on the weather side of the rim" indicating the rim diminsions. Nice to know that if I needed to add some rim I would have known right away the correct size. As always, all advice is appreciated. Thanks, Stan | ||
| Lyons Dunn Lillard (Cap) |
Stan, If you mixed DOT 4 with DOT 5 then you will need to dissassemble the entire system, cleaning and drying all parts to remove all brake fluid residue. You will also need to replace all the seals in the system. Use a non residue parts cleaner and compressed air to clean the caliper, MC, and brake hose. The two different brake fluids cause rubber parts in the brake system to turn to goey like substance. Make sure that the fluids are not the same before you tear down the system. DOT 5 loses its color after a few heat cycles. Try to stir the mixture to see if it mixes and give it time to settle. If it stays mixed then you are OK. Take a wood paint stir stick and push the piston in the caliper all the way in and use the stir stick, slipped between the disc and the pad by the piston, to hold the piston in. Rebleed the brakes. Tap on the brake line, MC, and caliper with the handle of a small screwdriver to help free up the bubbles that could be trapped. Email me if you need seals or more help and I will help you or order them. | ||
| Lyons Dunn Lillard (Cap) |
Ifthe fluids are the same. then keep pumping the brake pedal until you build pressure. Remember this when bleeding brakes. 1. Top reservoir off. 2. Apply some pressure to the brake pedal and open bleeder screw. Push brake pedal through its stroke and hold down. 3. Close bleeder screw and slowly release the brake pedal. Go back to step one. Do this two or three times and you should be good to go. Pump the brake pedal until you pressurize the brake system. Test brakes in safe area. If working go for a short ride to make sure the brake system is staying pumped up. I hope this helps. | ||
| major tom leonard (Majtomleonard) |
any idea what a set of titanium gray (light gray) marchesini's from a 96 S2 is worth? Front is slightly bent. Only about 1000 miles on the set. | ||
| Stan Bird (Stan) |
Thanks Cap - It doesn't look good-- things settled out in the jar overnight. Seperate. I swirled the jar and it blended slightly, formed seperate little balls of fluid that sort of popped and grouped together then got completely settled seperate again. I will contact you off-line and take you up on your offer to direct me to the seals, etc. Thanks again, Stan | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
Brake Rotors - Upgrade to 2000 rotor/carrier By TiminVA on Wednesday, December 8, 1999 - 11:38 am: The part #'s are : 45166-00Y Buell Rotor Carrier assembly 3655A Qty 5 needed, Pan head Torx Screw for above Also, you'll want to install a set of new EBC HH brake pads at the same time. If you need to replace your rotor and carrier I recommend you order and install the 00 version as pictured above. I've installed it on my 98 S3T along with a set of EBC HH pads and have about 500 miles on it with no problem. Although I did have to have my dealer remove the old allen head bolts as I was unable to break themn loose. The Buell 00 assembly only costs about $106 versus the $199 for the EBC rotor and carrier. Make sure you order a set of bolts for it as they are different then the \/ allen bolts used on my 98 rotor & carrier assembly. There now a pan head and much more substantial. Its great to not have that "tin cup" rattle from and loose feeling in the front end. | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
Brake Pads. By Jewish Lightning (Spiegan) on Thursday, September 30, 1999 - 10:22 am: Since 1998 all the calipers are made by Nissin. The same company that supplies brakes to the Japanese. I have used both EBC HH and Performance Friction pads in both my bikes and love them both, for different reasons. The EBC's have a much better intial bite than either the stock or Performance Friction pads, will not fade during street riding and are priced right. The Performance Friction pads are more expensive, have less intial bite than the EBC's but work much, much better on the race track. I have found that they are very exceptable brakes for the street too, you just need to apply a little extra lever pressure until they get hot. Speaking with EBC, they informed me that no matter what stickers you see on a race bike (SPS,EBC,Dunlopad) every racer uses Performance Friction. After using them on the race track last month I can atest to their superiority. An eariler track day I had used EBC HH's and found that by the end of the day they could no longer take the abuse. The Performance Friction pads never even knew they were on the race track. As a side note: Buell's that have the Nissin caliper use the same front pads as Yamaha's new R7 and Kawi's ZX7RR w/Nissin calipers. | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
Fidel baby, As a side note : Don't you mean, Yamaha's new R7 and Kawi's ZX7RR w/Nissin calipers, use the same brake pads as Buell's with the nissin caliper ? Rocket in England | ||
| Fidel (Doncasto) |
Rocket: You will have to ask Andy that question. The post was one forwarded to me in the restoration effort and written by Sir Andy on Sept. 30, 1999. Fidel | ||
| Sean Pepper (Rocketman) |
So, my foot is firmly in my mouth ! Hey Barney, speaking of wich, feet that is, any objections to me posting the pic from La Busa's ? You know the one ? The disappearing foot one ! OK ? Rocket in Englahahahhannd.sorry for laughing | ||
| B. R. Miller (Brm) |
ANYONE: This may be a dumb question, but do tires loose much of their grip as they wear? I know they become more treacherous in the wet as they loose their tread but what about on dry, clean pavement? Does the rubber compound somehow change as they wear? The front tire on my S1 has very little tread showing, especially on the sides. It is not thin enough to be in any immediate danger of a blow out. I would like to finish what's left of the riding season on it. I just rode about 20 miles thru my favorite twisties, but I didn't feel comfortable pushing it as hard as usual just because of the way the tire looks. Any opinions? BRM | ||
| Chris Matty (Matty) |
Aboot the tires.... change them. It's cheap insurance and you'll be amazed at how much grip you've lost. I always figured a bald tire would sick better since it had more surface area - not the case. As the tires wear they dry out, get hard, and stop sticking. If you really get them hot you can see them discolor along the sidewall just below the tread - not good... | ||
| Ed White (Mariner) |
Is there any particular recommendation for tires on the X-1? Only 3400 miles on the bike, the front still looks good- but the rear has a total of four little pieces of metal stuck in it. Don't have any idea what I ran over or how I didn't see it. I'm thinkin' just replace it with the stock 204, and do both in a few thou'. . . Anybody? thanks, Ed | ||
| Jasonl (Jasonl) |
I've heard good things about the Bridgestone BT10 or is it BT01...can't remember. But if you like the 204's, and don't have a compelling reason to change, why not stick with them? | ||
| Daniel Dunn (Buelliedan) |
Ed, Actually I believe your X1 has Dunlop 207s on it not 204s. The 204 is VERY soft and wears out rapidly while the 207 seems to last longer and is just as sticky. Dan 99S3 00X1 | ||
| Ed White (Mariner) |
Buelliedan; no, they're 204's and I have no complaints at all about them. Just thought I'd check the group and see if there's anything I'm missing. I figure to go to 207's when I replace both front & rear, I don't ride hard enough to get the full benefit of super sticky tires (I know,if I had stickier tires, I'd ride faster, but I'm an "old fart" & ride like one, more often than not). Ed | ||
| Daniel Dunn (Buelliedan) |
Sorry Ed, You must have a 99 X1? My 00 X1 came with the 207s and I really like them. Dan | ||
| Ed White (Mariner) |
Dan, Yeah, it's a 99- can you think of any reason not to mix a 207 rear with a 204 front? Anybody else have advice on this? Ed | ||
| Daniel Dunn (Buelliedan) |
Ed, I think it would be a great combo! Check out this link for a good deal on tires www.pecosbill.com Dan | ||
| Kevin J. Coffield (Kjcoff) |
Tires for a '95 S2, any suggestions? | ||
| Arvel L. Williams (S2no1) |
Kevin, Do you get the AMA mag? There is a good artilce on how tires vary and effect the bikes handling. If you don't have let me know. Arvel | ||
| Jason Cook (Cook) |
I own a molten orange 00m2, i love the bike, but hate the stock wheels, i looked into the alumn. wheels, but where way out of my budget. What i was wondering is if anyone out there has looked into chrome plating the stock wheels, if so how much, and maybe any problems with doing it this way. thanks, Jason Cook | ||
| Peter Moltmann (Peter) |
Jason, Click on the American Sport Bike logo. I believe they have polished stock wheels done on an exchange basis. PPiA | ||
| Jose E. Martinez (Jmartz) |
When I heard that the new for 2001 PM wheels did not have the slot in the spokes I thought to myself, hmmnnn, I bet they won't be as attractive as what I have. Last night I got to see an '01 X1 with new wheels. Are they nice or what? They are completely redesigned (machining process). The spokes are slimmer, more swoopy and the holes between themare bigger. Did not like the "mutilated in" numbering on the rim that indicates size and width. My '96s only had a hand stamped "1 96" near the valve. | ||
| Tony Peters (Aikigecko) |
Tire Quest OK I'm on a mission has anyone out there found a replacement tire for the Blast other than the OEM Dunlop K330? Buell's choice of swing arm dimension ensures that only a 120/80 will fit (I know this because I've tried 120/90's to no avail. Pirelli supposedly makes a tire in this size ( the MT 75) but I've had no luck in finding a distributor who has it in stock or for that matter who will stock it. Peace Tony | ||
| Bryan Martyn (Bryanx1) |
2000 X1; heading to England in a month. Looking for a good wet weather tire. Currently running 207s. Only 4500 miles and they are done. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks. B | ||
| Peter Moltmann (Peter) |
Bryan, I had the 205 on the M2 when I bought it, and found them to be not so nice in the wet. I put Michelin Pilot Sports on and they are a lot less slippery in this lovely Dutch rain. The 205 lasted longer though. PPiA | ||
| Mike Moriarty (Shooter) |
I concur with Peter, D205's are not good rain tires.I have found the D207 to work well in the rain.I commute daily in Seattle, have more wet miles on my bikes than dry!! | ||
| Ray Berry (Bigblock) |
I have a 2000 M2, and ride pretty hard on curvy roads. My 205's were done at 3000 mi, and treacherous by 4000 when I installed Mich pilot sport. real sticky, but dont hold a line as nice, and stand up hard under corner braking. at 7300mi I just installed a set of D207's, and find them to be the best yet, holding a line great, good lean braking, and loads of grip. I would strongly reccomend 207's over pilots, I'll never get another set of those tires. My pilots never saw the rain, not on long enough, and i just got the 207's, so they haven't seen it yet. | ||
| Bigblock |
Yes, the 207's work much better than 2o5's in the rain... | ||
| Bomber |
All . . .. . I'm looking to improve the performance of my Y2K M2 rear brake . . . .so far, it seems to be good for adding some sprung weight to the reaar wheel, and not much else . . . .. I've seen lots of part sold, including pads, master cyliners, eyes of newt, and pentagrams of East Troy Wisconsin dirt . . . .. anyone have any recommendations? thanks rosberg | ||
| Jasonl |
Bomber - call Tat at ASB. I think he has a different master cylinder for the rear brake that ups the efficiency of the stock unit. If not he should be able to tell you where to go to get one. | ||
| Ralph |
Cap might have some of those left too. bighairyralph | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Bomber..just my $0.02 somewhere here a while back was long discussion on the virtues of the "wooden" feeling of the rear brake. Seems I remember the gist being that the design was purposefull to get riders using the front brake more. | ||
| Jasonl |
Seeu911 - I remember that thread. I know that there have been times I was too hot into a corner and having a back brake that WOULD NOT lock up saved me from a possible high side. I don't need more rear braking force but to each his own. | ||
| Bomber |
All . . .thanks for the input on the brake issue . . . . . although I applaud the idea of "forcing" riders to use the front brake more, I've been riding long enough that I want to disable this training device, if that's what it is . I also agree that locking the back wheel won't save ANY situation, but, then again, neither will locking the front . . . . . There are situations when using the rear brake helps me set up for a corner, and to distribute the weight, front to rear, the way I want. I want two things: 1. as much brake as I can handle (and the rear seems to be just along for the ride at this point) 2. brakes with good response, or "feel," if you will, and the present read brake on the MA-Duece aint got any of that . . . . . again, thanks for the data rosberg | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Bomber: Let us know what you end up doing with the brake modifications and how it works for you, what you post will help us all. Jason, I still have car autocross braking habits..using the brake and throttle to weight transfer..I'm not quite there yet on the bike...I resemble your comments too. Seee U | ||
| Bomber |
CU911 . . .wilco . . . . I've learned a great deal from this board(and the ATC), and would wlcome the chance to pay some of the karmic debt back . . . rosberg | ||
| Jasonl |
UH OH! Technique thread looming ahead... Seeu911 - my background is in cars too. I try not to brake at all if I'm not upright because I'm deathly afraid of washing out the front wheel. But coming into a turn I'm braking hard and then I try to power through the minute I lean over. As far as the back brake goes...I have come in real hot and I know (!) that I've practically stood on the rear brake while trying to suck my tighty whiteys into my a$$. I do think that if I had a more effective brake dirty jockey's would be the least of my worries. Bomber - YEAH MAN! Pay up! (Grin) we all owe a debt of gratitude to all the users, and Blake, on here. The information I get here is tremedous. Just jump in when you've got something you want to say. | ||
| Mikej |
Breaking mid-turn is sometimes a necessary evil one has to do. Not recommended nor preferred, but sometimes you do what you gotta do. I think the Keith Code video covers it some. |
