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Eeeeek
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 06:55 pm: |
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I've heard one exists. I want to have the suspension on an XB9R just right for a track day. Vik |
Doitindark
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 07:43 pm: |
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Do a search for this info on this web site. The settings are also in the May/June Fuell mag. I've used them and there great. Shawn Higbee did the testing. |
Slaughter
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 07:46 pm: |
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Here ya go: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/33942.html#POST184015 I talked to Higbee about the table and it is reality based and settings really do get pretty close for starting settings. It'll get you a lot closer than the settings in the manual. It assumes stock suspension components (duuuhhhh). |
Slaughter
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 07:49 pm: |
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On the track, the front MIGHT seem pretty soft under braking (zip-tie it to check). Because the angles are so steep, when the front compresses, it can feel squirrely - especially if trail braking. You might want to be ready to increase compression damping maybe a 1/8 - 1/4 turn or so (at least that is where I had to go before re-springing and re-valving the forks) |
M1combat
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 08:10 pm: |
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I haven't tried the Higbee settings (I've got my own settings worked out starting from the manual recommended settings and then from a suggestion from Ingemar) but I've heard good things. I don't know what tires he was using though... so I don't know if there needs to be an adjustment for that if you're using something else. The suspension is very sensitive though... I can tell the difference in understeer going from 2.5 to 2 lines of preload on the front. Keep that in mind . I generally don't corner fast enough on the street for the understeer to be an issue so I don't fix it. The fix would have other drawbacks of course... How much do you weigh? If you weigh 200lbs like I do I'll give you my settings just for giggles... |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 08:49 pm: |
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Optimally the XB will have the $70 worth of factory race springs installed. Absent that the following Buell guidelines might be beneficial... But hopefully some who actually race an XB will chime in with their own recommendations. And as always, trying a few different variations might benefit you as well. The difficulty some have is that they try to ride the bike the same as they ride their conventional motorcycle. New or near new brake pads are a must as well. What track will you be riding? |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 08:53 pm: |
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M1, Dude, I really do appreciate your enthusiasm. But please let this soak in... little to nothing applicable to riding on the street applies to a track bike setup. |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 08:54 pm: |
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Oops, had that first post sitting unposted in a minimized browser window. Glad to see a real XB racer chime in! |
Indy_bueller
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 11:04 pm: |
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M1 I'm about 200, I'd be interested in your settings. |
Rsh
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2005 - 11:04 pm: |
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Here are the settings from the May/June Fuell magazine article: Recommendations for smooth race track use. rider weight 150-170 front preload lines showing 6.5 compression 3/4 turn out from max rebound 1-1/8 turns out from max rear preload ramp position 4 compression 1/4 turn out from max rebound 7/8 turn out from max rider weight 190-210 front preload lines showing 5.5 compression 1/2 turn out from max rebound 1 turn out from max rear preload ramp position 6 compression 1/8 turn out from max rebound 3/4 turn out from max Enjoy |
M1combat
| Posted on Friday, August 19, 2005 - 11:46 am: |
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"Dude, I really do appreciate your enthusiasm. But please let this soak in... little to nothing applicable to riding on the street applies to a track bike setup." No Blake... I don't know of ANY "race settings" floating around the net at all (apparently I missed the ones Rsh posted above...). He asked for Higbee's settings (by virtue of the fact that those and the settings in the manual are about the only ones in existence) that as I recall are agressive street settings. I figured I'd offer my agressive street settings as well "just for giggles". Don't get me wrong... It's not that I feel my settings are designed by a master like Higbee's are or anything. Just for the record. Anyway... just trying to help . |
Csg_inc
| Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 09:31 am: |
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anybody know if the same settings would apply to the Ulysses? Or just go with the set up in the owners manual? |
Slaughter
| Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 09:33 pm: |
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Those settings do NOT apply to the Ulysses. The're meant for shorter-travel, stiffer street/sport type of riding and are only applicable to the XB9 with the 43mm fork diameters. Not sure if the fatter forks would use the same settings. |
Wyckedflesh
| Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 10:00 pm: |
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Optimally the XB will have the $70 worth of factory race springs installed. Blake, unfortunately, quote:Pro Series Suspension 48083-04Y $76.95 Fits '05-later XB models (except XB12Scg, '06 XB12Ss and XB12X).
I thought I would mention it just in case anyone with an older model got their hopes up. As Don pointed out, those settings you posted are for Aggressive street riding and not track settings. One other aspect to keep in mind, without knowing whether you are running the 208's or one of the trackday tires has an affect on suspension settings as well. It was my understanding that those settings were ment to be used with the stock Dunlops, the bike will respond differently with a track profile (more tirangular front and taller crown rear)tire in a more positive way then the flatter profile of the Dunlops. |
Trac95ker
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 12:53 am: |
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I just attended the Danbury Buell Day. Rod (ex pro racer of 20 yrs)had a suspension seminar. He was disscussing the theory of suspension which included throttle, trail braking, pitch, gyroscopes, rpm, and countersteering. To name a few. Hew stressed knowing the physics and theory. This is my understanding: Set compression damping to factory. Set rebound damping to full soft. To set the spring preload on your suspension, sit on your bike in your normal riding position. measure how much the bike sags. It should be around an inch. It's a percentage of total travel. Next bounce up and down. Try to match the spring compression rate of the forks and shock. You don't want to pivot off of either axle. They should move evenly or close. To set rebound damping, when your riding increase the damping so the suspension does'nt keep cycling after the change in surface. The wheel should compress while going over the bump and extend down the bump. Then return to sag position. The opposite effect would be if you felt every crack in the road. the twheel isnt extending fast enough and its pulling the bike down the hill. It really depends on the surfaces you ride on. Theres no magic setting. If you are on a smooth race track, the suspension can be set firmer or slower. The wheels arent moving quickly through their travel. The turns,hill crests,dips load the suspension. It does'nt have to be concerened with potholes or pavement joints (quick movement). On the street the suspension has to react quickly. If the wheel can't move fast enough to get out of the way of bump, the force gets translated to the bike and you which screws up the handling, bike gets thrown off line, stands up or the tire looses contact. Ride the bike and adjust the damping so that you don't feel every tar strip in the road. The goal is to try to keep the mass still while the suspension moves up and down over bumps. If you put the brakes on in a turn and you bottom out the forks adjust that with more compression damping or preload. Remember you want the bike to pitch foward some. That plants the front tire and turns the bike. Also gives you feedback. It really depends on what surface you ride. That dictates how fast you can go along with how the suspension is tuned. The problem is knowing how to tune the suspension. A half turn could put you past the optimum setting for that surface. The suspension has to keep up with changing surfaces( potholes,stutter bumps, g's in a banked turn, grooved roads. Dips in the road. For the street it's a more of a compromise. To many variables. The track has a set surface and line around the track. Now you can tune for this specific set of surfaces. To get an idea of what the settings feel like, do a test. Set a soft suspension setting and go over a speed bump at 5mph. Note the movement of the bike. Set a firm suspension setting firm spring preload, compression and rebound. put it to the max. Go over speed bump at 5mph. Note the handling. Did it hurt your hands or jam your back? You should be able to notice something. Now det the bike up for the road. Write every adjustment down and change things one at a time. Take time to understand how it effects the ride. As for aggressive street, Rod told me once he turns the rebound damping a 1/4 turn slower, thats it. I left lots of stuff out. I'd get a book. Its to much info to remember. It takes time to learn the bike. The suspension is very tuneable. Lots of guys go to track days and ride the street with no problem. Hope this helps. Its also personal preference. Good luck. |
M1combat
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 05:52 am: |
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Dave races his XB... Maybe you could ask for his setup if your anywhere near the same weight? |
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