| Author | Message | ||
     Skyguy |
Hi all, Despite 20 years riding sport bikes I am still struggling with my suspension after a year of ownership. Perhaps I need to spend some money for a new rear shock and ship the front end off to Ohlins. Perhaps I am missing something.... I am an agressive canyon carver and weigh in at 140lbs. Any hints or sugestions would be wonderfull. | ||
| Sleeper_777 |
Have you tried the settings per the owner's manual? It worked for me @160pounds. If you don't happen to have the manual, let me know and I'll look it up. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
Look at this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/104121.html | ||
| Skyguy |
I never got an owners manual with the bike ): I am embarresed to admit I am still not sure which adj. on the front end is which. I fiddle, I ride, I fiddle again. I did use the preload settings in the graph on that thread though. Anyone out there have an extra owners manual? Can I buy one or get one online? This thing is so different from my old sport bikes (Yamaha, Honda) Thanks! | ||
| Rsh |
The Shawn Higbee aggressive handling settings for < 150lbs are as follows: front preload 6 lines showing compression 2.0 turns out from max. rebound 1.75 turns out from max. rear preload ramp position 2 compression 1.75 turns out from max. rebound 1.5 turns out from max. The above info will give you a baseline to start from. Ultimately you should measure your sag and adjust your preload front and rear as needed then you know your bike is set for you, for example I like to run my sag in the 35mm range front and rear YMMV. | ||
| Skyguy |
Rsh, Stupid question but which of the two adjusters on the forks are which? Also is "max" screwed all the way clockwise or counter clockwise? Like I said earlier, this beast is way different from my old rides and with no owners manual I am doing a lot of guessing. | ||
| Rsh |
The 03 XB9R owners manual suspension settings for 150lbs or less is as follows: front preload 5 lines showing compression 1-1/2 turns out from max. rebound 1-5/8 turns out from max. rear ramp position 1 compression 1-1/4 turns out from max rebound 1-1/4 turns out from max. The damping values are based on sport riding average roads. | ||
| Frausty_void |
SKyguy get an owners manual... not expensive, and also a shop manual.. Maximum setting is full clockwise, minimum is fully counter clockwise. Always setup "from maximum" then "turns out would be counter clockwise"  here goes.. Fork adjustments: Small brass adjuster on the top of the fork (top side) = Rebound Damping adjuster Silver Hex collar below that = Preload Adjuster nut Small brass adjuster on the bottom of the fork leg (near the caliper mount) = Compression Damping adjuster. Rear Shock: Preload - Using the spanner wrench in the tool kit, under the seat there is a metal collar with 7 "ramps" on it.. this is the preload adjuster and can be set by lifting the tail of the bike keeping tire on the ground (unloading the spring) then use the spanner wrench to increase preload "move it to a taller ramp" (compressing the spring) rebound Damping adjuster is on the bast of the shock nearest the rear tire. Compression damping is under the seat and you can see it to the rear near the pillion seat on the "shifter" side of the bike. (Message edited by frausty_void on August 15, 2005) | ||
| Rsh |
The screw adjuster on the lower fork leg is for compression, the screw adjuster on the top is for rebound. The compression adjuster for the shock is at the rear of the seat (left side rear) the rebound adjustment is at the shock base (left side) where it connects to the swing arm. All adjustments are from a fully clockwise (lightly seated) position. Do not force the adjustment screws to the seated position. | ||
| Skyguy |
Thanks frausty! It was the small brass adjusters on the front fork I was not sure about. Now I can get to making some changes with the guessing which is which. The manuals are on the list but due to a very scary (almost got killed) rear blowout at 70+ with the knee nearly on the ground I exceeded my Bike budget for the next month or so buying new wheels.......... I have a great deal on some silver rims that are only slightly bent. Okay I admit it the rear was bent badly enough to break the bead on the tire! I heard they are repairable but personaly my confidence in them would be shot and honestly I could never sell them to anyone after being repaired. hmm maybe they would make nice lawn ornaments in Fontana.... | ||
| Skyguy |
Thanks to you also Rsh! | ||
| Rsh |
Skyguy, I had a rear tire blowout on the freeway going 80mph or so, you just have to remember not to tense up or make any sudden corrections. I rode it off the freeway and road it flat to my tire guy about 2 miles from where I was. It wasn't to bad once you got to about 30mph any slower and it would squirm about a foot side to side. Luckily I did not do any damage to my rim. | ||
| Skyguy |
I have had two rear blowouts on the hwy over the years one at over 80mph. Rest assured it can not even compare to one leaned over hauling butt. I had but a moment to make a decision. Low side the bike and in all probability slide under one of many oncomming cars or squeeze the front brake standing up the bike probally missing two oncomming cars. I squeezed the brake and missed being a head on by a few feet.... I ended up going across three total lanes over a median and into the downhill offramp. I never lost the bike but it was oh so close. Was sitting on the gas tank for a second after nasty tank slappers and the bike doing the "jelly donut". Caltrans fixed the crack/pothole three days later......... After several calls from myself and a couple of friends. |
