| Author | Message | ||
     Ryker77 |
I bought my X1 used with 7k miles on it. The drive belt on the outside edge had wore off -- 1/4". As if the spacing was off. I checked both sides and found that it was slighty out of adjustment. I just assumed I fixed the problem. I put a new belt on this weekend. The only way I can keep the belt from catching/rubbing on the outside of the rear sprocket is to have the belt really tight. Also if I look down (aim) the drive belt from the rear pulley to the front pulley.. As I rotate clockwise the belt moves towards the outer lip on the front pulley. If I rotate counter clock wise the belt moves to the inside. This tells me something is not correct. This is with both rear adjuster measured and correct. It was hot as hell yesterday and I had allready been working on the bikes installing a twintec ignition. So I may have just overlooked something..... | ||
| Tramp |
OK- first, keep you belt LOOSE. secondly, if your pulleys are aligned, ignore the slow-speed bias to one side. this is natural in any belt system. with various speeds it changes. a tight belt will give you far more problems AND inhibit the belt's natural mediallateral travel. if all buellers would be less analytical about the mechanical minutae of their machines, and stop these 'fixes' (tight belts, etc.) there would be FAR fewer mechanical issues. relax, it's fine...go ride and grin! | ||
| Ryker77 |
"if your pulleys are aligned" how would they Not be aligned? | ||
| Hans |
"if your pulleys are aligned" how would they Not be aligned? It is possible to make a mistake, when measuring the adjusters on both sides. The surface of the adjuster is NOT parallel with the flat surface on the swingarm. The adjusters have some free play within their canal, and can be turned somewhat around the axis: And one side will be turned up, the other down. Enough for a few mm off line, when you measure both sides on the same surface above or below the axis. Measuring the free screw thread will do better. A too tight belt is fastest way for destruction of the bearings of the front pulley. The rear suspension travel will be limited then by the belt. Each serious bump on the road will cause huge forces on the balls in their bearings. The belt has to be loose. How loose you will not find in the manual, because there was a revision afterward. Important is that the free play is given perpendicular from the straight line between the outside of pulleys, covered with the belt. So it is NOT the total up and down free play (as it is in the primary drive chain). Best way to adjust the belt is to have the rear of the bike lifted from the ground. Disconnect the shock/spring unit from the swingarm. Lift the rear wheel by hand through the tightest spot of the belt. On the tightest spot the wheel should still just turn smoothly, without rumbling of the balls. Apart from that all: Lightest touching of one of the phlangues of the pulleys is quite normal. Hans | ||
| Outrider |
Ryker...Out of curiosity, which belt did you put on? Tuber, XB, or 2006 XB? | ||
| Phat_j |
i had my belt break on me this weekend....... i just ordered a chain conversion kit....but what burns me most is the 22 "bikers" that rode past the time i spent standing waiting for the truck. sure i had my cell, and sure the ole lady was on her way, but they didnt know that, they just kept going... damn rubs. | ||
| Tramp |
always carry a nylon stocking/pantyhose under your seat. when your belt breaks, the nylon stocking makes an excellent 'limp home' belt. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I'll assume its the tuber belt. It was included when I bought the bike. __________________________ I'll loosen up the belt and ride it. It just concerns me that the "old" belt had rub 1/4 off in the same place the new belt is. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I guess I shoud mention the bike has PM wheels and an aftermarket billet rear pully. I think some very thin washers/spacers between the rim and the rear pulley would be the cure. ?? | ||
| Tramp |
that's an interesting thing you decided to mention. time to measure. please run that belt silly loose, man. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Is the pulley square to the wheel - as in is the mating surface of the pulley machined square to the mating surface where it mates to the wheel!!!!!!! I know Tramp is gonna have a field day with that one. | ||
| Ryker77 |
"Is the pulley square to the wheel - as in is the mating surface of the pulley machined square to the mating surface where it mates to the wheel!!!!!!! " I assume it is. As I rotate the rim and look down the belt the pulley and belt rotates the same. If I only had about 1-3mm of extra room then it would be good to go. | ||
| Tramp |
tramp (for whatever his nonsense is worth)definitely likes the idea of checking square at the mating surfaces. tramp's just feeling silly for not mentioning that, his'se'f.... | ||
| Bomber |
also you can measure form the center of the rear axle to the center of the swingarm isolator mounting bolts -- longer distance, different measurements will be larger and easier to see .. . assuming everything is square is easy, for sure, but could add silliness to your life | ||
| Twowheeldream |
I dont think that it has anything to do with you having an aftermarket pully. I'm having the same problem with my 97 S3, haven't rubbed part of the belt away, but it "squaks". When I back my bike out of the parking spot and look down at the front pully, the belt has tracked over to the left, closer to the engine. By the time I pull out of the parking spot and make it around my first corner, I can hear it starting to squak and look down at the front pully again to see the belt up against the shoulder at the right. a square mating surface would be a different problem i think... the pully would just wobble while rotating, making the belt track back and forth rather than just to one side. | ||
| Tramp |
again, (ad nauseum), the belt will always travel, mediallaterally, with various speeds. the squawking comes from other factors, even more innocuously | ||
| Sjh |
Ryker, that rear pulley was actually made my buell. You should not have to shim or adjust it. I would go with Tramp, just make sure your rear wheel straight, the belt is loose, and keep riding. | ||
| Ryker77 |
thanks for the knowledge...  The belt was sorta "free" and if it breaks then I can just get the newest version. | ||
| Aaomy |
just a random thought. the buell pulley is a bored out center hole sportster pulley. several times i have seen sportster pulleys listed as fitting buells, even thought the center hole is still the stock sporty size. if you were to place a sporty custom rear pulley on the back of a buell it would miss align your belt. i currently dont have my bike right hear to look at to tell you how much variance or if it is even possiable to place a sporty rear sprocket on the rear of a buell successfully. just a random thought to run past you guys. hope this tid bit may help.. aaron (Message edited by aaomy on August 08, 2005) |
