| Author | Message | ||
     Bakadoh |
So I need a new set of tires... HD dealer wants $530 to change them for OEM dunlops. Cyclegear wants $294 for a set of michilen power roads... off bike. Front looks straight forward, and the manual looks pretty strange for the rear removal... basically states just pull the wheel. Is there anything I need to know about getting the wheel removed with the belt? Do I need to do the belt tension release, or is it like the manual says I can remove the rear rim without doing that? Thanks ofr any help... and yes I tried to do a search and got a lot of info... but not about this direct question. | ||
| Jasonxb12s |
1. Remove chin fairing 2. Remove brake caliper (I usually let it hang gently to the side of the swingarm with a towel wrapped around it) MAKE SURE YOU DON'T PRESS THE PEDAL WHEN IT'S OFF THE DISK. 3. Remove lower belt guard 4. Loosen axle pinch bolt. (Under swingarm support) 5. Loosen axle 5 turns to give slack to belt. 6. Remove front sprocket cover 7. Remove idler pulley 8. Remove axle From this point I usually drop the wheel to the floor, roll it forward and wiggle the belt off of the side. Make sure when reinstalling the axle to use plenty of Anti Seize lube. A few people here have had theirs seize up and snap in two inside the threads. Also make sure you don't forget to reinstall the brake and tighten the pinch bolt. Do you have the proper torque settings handy for re install? | ||
| Sokota |
Step 5, loosen axle 15 turns to get slack in belt, to make removing pulley tensioner very easy.Actually up to 20 turns , purpose is to get the bearing off the axel taper. Simple, sturdy engineering,luv that snatch free drive.  | ||
| Firewhirl |
What is the size and description of the tool needed to loosen the axle. It's the opposite of a socket. I will need to swap out tires also. But right now I'm changing my forks seals. I can't get the front wheel off the forks. | ||
| Metalstorm |
There should be a axle removal tool in the tool pouch that came with the bike. It looks like two nuts welded together. Front axle is reversed threads. There is an arrow on the forks indicating direction to loosen. | ||
| Firewhirl |
wow awesome. I'll go check the tool kit. | ||
| Bakadoh |
thanks guys.. Just found out that the stealership want closer to $600 cash p/l. I'm all for helping local shops but double the cost of the tires for labor?? I'm guessing it's for all those snapped belts that the mechanics bust. crud I just read the torque settings in a thread I searched... of course I can't find it anymore.... If any one has the time...  (Message edited by bakadoh on July 30, 2005) | ||
| Bruceclay |
I guess i'm just a bad boy. I threw away the belt guard 10000 miles ago. I don't take the pulley cover off or the caliper. On the front, I just take the fender off and with a little practice you can rotate the fork leg with the caliper on it out of the way. I have even done both wheels at the same time with my lift for the rear and a floor jack for the front. Take the wheels to my local accessories shop (Bates Cycle) and $40 buck later my (mail order) tires are mounted and spin balanced! That plus a bike wash takes about 3 hours. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Thought I'd repeat something. 2. Remove brake caliper (I usually let it hang gently to the side of the swingarm with a towel wrapped around it) MAKE SURE YOU DON'T PRESS THE PEDAL WHEN IT'S OFF THE DISK. If you do get ready for some extra fun work. | ||
| Frausty12r |
I guess everyones got their own ways of doing this, can I add my .02? 1. remove the brake caliper, I believe it's a 10mm and a 12 mm socket for the caliper pins.. let it hang over the swingarm, with a towel (damn that sounds familiar) 2. remove the front sprocket cover, and lower belt guard. Lower belt guard uses 1/8th allen wrench (I believe it's 1/8th could be a tad smaller) and front sprocket cover uses the torx driver found in the tool bag under the rear seat. 3. remove the axle pinch bolts which I believe are 3/8" allen heads 4. The using a breaker bar or a 1/2" drive socket wrench and a 7/8" socket insert the axle tool (looks like two nuts separated by a fender washer) and loosen the rear axle 15-20 turns or until the belt is loose enough to slip off the rear sprocket. DO NOT TWIST THE BELT and DO NOT BEND IT BACKWARDS OVER ON ITSELF. The belt should be able to slip around the rear sprocket. 5. Once belt is clear of the rear sprocket, simply remove the axle completely (while holding the rear tire with one hand) slide the axle straight out careful not to foul the threads. 6. Simply slide the rear wheel down out of the caliper bracket and roll it out from under the bike. Installation would be the reverse of course, but just as a precaution and good practice, go to your local auto store (Advance *bleh* or Autozone, and get some permatex Anti-seize lubricant) put some on the threads of the rear axle and the barreled ends, this will keep dirt/water/oxidation from gettin in between the swingarm and the axle causing it to get "locked" in place, which can be a huge problem when you need to remove it again. Just dab it on your finger and rub it around the entire mating surface. No need to put it on the axle thats tapered/smaller diameter as nothing contacts that area.  Let us know how it goes! (Message edited by FrAuStY12R on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Cataract2 |
The using a breaker bar or a 1/2" drive socket wrench and a 7/8" socket insert the axle tool I'm about 2 seconds from going to get a breaker bar just for getting my tire off. Dang thing won't budge. | ||
| Scitz |
For the price the stealerships want you could get the tires, wheel stands, and service factory service manual and do it yourself. I've replaced both tires on my Firebolt and am getting ready to do it again. It's really not hard to do it yourself if your patient and follow the manual. I just purchased a set of Metzler Sportec M-1 tires for $218 for the set with shipping included. It will then cost me around $25 to $35 each to have them mounted and balanced at a local shop. I would suggest doing it yourself for the experience in case you’re on the road and have a flat or a belt break. | ||
| Cwby8383 |
just swapped my rear tonight. torque specs as requested: 6: idler nuts/washers 33-35 ft-lbs (45-47 Nm) chin fairing 36-48 IN-LBS (4-5 Nm) 7: tighten rear axle to 23-27 ft-lbs (31.2-36.6 Nm), back off two full turns then retighten to 48-52 ft-lbs (65.1-70.5 Nm). 8: tighten pinch fastener to 40-45 ft-lbs (54-61 Nm) 9: caliper bolts - 24-26 ft-lbs (32-35 Nm) |
