| Author | Message | ||
     Denfromphilly |
Yo from Philly, I am going to take off my primary cover in the next couple days to see if my tensioner has been updated. At the same time I want to see if I can improve the shifting in and out of third gear, it's a bit crunchy. I have Red line Heavy on order from Summit and wonder if the new HD shift pawl is a better choice than the Baker smooth kit. I have read all about the pins backing out of the stock pawl and the shift drum hitting it, does the newer HD part address this or is the problem the crappy little clip? I will smooth out all the raised edges on the shift drum etc. The manual suggests to remove 5th gear is this necessary? I read some directions somewhere here or in the X files, can someone send me a link? Is the tranny as easy as pulling the cable and cover, removing the big nuts on the clutch and crank, slipping off the sprockets, removing 5 bolts around the tranny and removing it? How does the clutch install? Is the clutch simply adjusted with the cable? Thanks...Den 99X1 | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I am interested in this also. | ||
| Ceejay |
I just pulled mine to replace the crank seal on my M2-they should be the same, not sure about your shifting problems but the tranny removal is an easy removal/install. I was told to check the output bearings while I was there so that is why I pulled it. Took another 15 minutes after pulling the primary and clutch basket. The clutch is pretty easy, follow the manual, and yes the only adjustments are with the cable, at the point by the oil filter-outside the primary, and under the "derby cover" using the flat head screw adjustment. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The manual will give you all the details of the clutch installation procedure. You don't want to pull the 5th gear assembly unless you have some reason to suspect it. Removing it destroys the big case bearing it sits in, and is a scary process. Definately inspect it after you pull the tranny, but don't pull it unless you see damage. The clip is part of the problem, but the pins backing out is a problem as well. Not all do it. I don't think the shift pawl changed, but the detente plate did, it got a different profile some time in 2000. The newer profile is generally considered better, but a few odd bikes work better with the old profilt. The Clutch pack, primary chain, and stator all come off as a unit together. It's easy, provided you have removed all the nuts and turned them the right direction  Not a job to be done without the factory manual (IMHO). | ||
| Patrickh |
Yeah, I was gonna say that, the detent plate was updated in '01 or '00. Changing that out takes 45 min and increases the ease at which you can shift gears and lessens missed gears. If the pins on the shifter drum stand a little proud (a symptom is neutral is impossible to find) they can be tapped back into tolerance with a nail set and mallet. Some people locktite the pins, I didn't and I have not had any problems for over 3000mi. I believe the Baker kit is a lot more invasive...dosen't it switch out the actual shifting drum itself? | ||
| Phatkidwit1eye |
I did the Baker kit and it was pretty easy to do. Removing the shift drum is pretty simple. The Baker piece is nice b/c it uses a bolt instead of a clip to hold the detent plate on. Only problem I really had was getting the pawl adjusted correctly. Once I had everything set it shifted much better. In the end, if my shift pins had not pushed out I probly would have not have bought it. I will admit, never having to worry about that lil clip popping off and having my detent plate laying against the back of my clutch hub is a nice feeling... | ||
| Al_lighton |
What Bill said...and if you've missed it elsewhere, remove that derby cover by breaking torque on each screw, then retightening it gently, before removing all of them. Getting the nuts off the clutch basket and main shaft is a lot easier if you have one of these or it's equivalent. I've done it with blocks and rags, and after getting one of these bars, think that it was silly to do it that way. Follow the manual, pay attention to loctite and proper thread degreasing prior to applying it. The Baker Smooth Shift Kit is a piece of cake to install, and I highly recommend it. It's one of those things that I wouldn't open it up to install, but if I was in there for any reason, I'd put one it. It's worth it for both the improved shift performance and the reliability of getting rid of that *%#)$*@&$* clip. I love the trap door tranny. I despise that Buell got rid of it on the XBs. I know why they did, I don't agree with their arguments. Al |
