| Author | Message | ||
     Johnk3 |
My upper rear cylinder exhaust stud broke. I looked in the service manual but didn't see instructions on replacing. oh and whats the chances my dealer has one in stock? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The rub is getting the old left over chunk out of the head. Did you manage that yet? There is a good chance the dealer has the part in stock. | ||
| Midmofirebolt |
I think I heard somewhere that a sporty's stud fits it. I had the same thing but on the front cylinder. After reading about it on here(was that you Reepicheep?) I decided to drop it off a local MC shop and let them deal with it. $250 and they pulled out the sheared stud and replaced both studs, kept me from screwing anything major up. If I were you, I'd replace both as well, I'm sure that other stud is getting more of a workout than was intended, and it might save on problems down the road. Good luck. | ||
| Reepicheep |
 That was me. Either take it to a shop, or get the Jims stud removal drill out tool, it works great. | ||
| Jackbequick |
It won't help with this broken stud but if you can get some moisture/lube down into the threads inside the nuts, it will soften the rust and ease getting the nuts off. A good thing to try is PB Blaster (almost any auto store). Put it on when the stud and nut are still too hot to touch or even if slightly vaporized by the heat. Apply two or three times as it cools. Let it set, overnight even, giving each another spritz occasionally. Then take a blunt brass punch, put the tip on one of the flats, and give it 15-20 quick light taps with a small ball pein hammer, the vibration will loosen the rust bond some. Spritz it again, and go for it with short turning movements, reversing directions, and spritzing it occasionally. If the nut starts to get harder to turn, spritz and carefully reverse it a little. The stud is pretty well crystallized from the heating and cooling cycles and it won't take much to shear it. Time consuming and a PITA of sorts? Yes. Faster and easier than getting a broken stud out? You bet! Jack | ||
| Rocketman |
Get the Jims stud removal drill out tool, it works great. Yes it does and it is a very accurate way (keeps perfect alignment) of removing and if necessary re-tapping the original thread without any risk of damaging it. Simply there is no better way if you are having to deal with stud extraction \ drilling. Rocket | ||
| Johnk3 |
I just bought the Jims. If anyone else should need to use it drop me a line. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Excellent! You did the right thing (more right then what I did, which turned out OK, but which I was *always* nervous about). It will be a lot less painful then my path as well. That was like 3 or 4 years ago, and I *still* shudder when I get a whiff of sweat and penetrating oil. | ||
| Rocketman |
John that's a great and kind gesture though I won't trouble you. I'm in England  I recently repaired one of my studs and fortunately for me a good friend has the Jims kit. That said I had to drive to Leeds and back to get a replacement stud. I guess it's worth pointing out to those that may not already know the stud has a course thread for the head end and a finer thread for the header nuts so not your usual hardware store purchase. Anyway how much does the Jims kit cost Stateside? Rocket | ||
| Reepicheep |
I believe it was about $75 when I priced it. | ||
| Johnk3 |
63 from cyborgcyles | ||
| Unibear12r |
I have a broken stud on my S3 but it's still got about 5/8s of an inch sticking out. I know I can cut it flush and use a Jim's Tool but has anybody heard of a good way to remove such a stud without doing that? | ||
| Johnk3 |
if you can get the nut on, weld the nut on then try to remove it. | ||
| Unibear12r |
As long as it's not weak in another spot that could work. Worth a try with nothing to loose. Thanks | ||
| Reepicheep |
Just don't put an easy out into it. It will snap and leave a non drillable insert in the middle  | ||
| Unibear12r |
Turned out to be easy. Shot it with Liquid Wrench and let it sit a day or so. Then used the old double nut trick. I could only get about a third of a nut on the jam nut but it worked fine. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Lucky you! | ||
| Buell_boy_beau |
Jonhk3, did you get the stud out? If the stud is broken off flush or internal, you can carefully tack weld & build up a surface to weld a nut onto. Wait until it's fully cooled down otherwise the weld will most likely twist & break & WD40 (or your penatrene equivalent) & turn the nut & stud out. Because the head is alloy, the mig weld wont stick. But be careful. Or even take it to an exhaust shop whom is reputable. Good luck. |
