| Author | Message | ||
     Ryker77 |
I was able to get the left side bolts off with a short 1/4 allen bit and a 1/4 wrench. Just not sure how in the heck I can reach the right side? I pulled the intake manifold off of my sportster but that was about 8 years ago and I recall it was a bitch as well. Any tips?  | ||
| Iamike |
The manual says to use ball-end wrenches. I had to use your method with the cut off wrench to break them loose (is that what you did, cut off about a 3/8" piece of one to fit in the gap?). It should be just long enough to fit in the bolt and have some to fit in the wrench. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I figured on the ball end allen wrenches-- just got back from the store with them. I use a 1/4 allen "bit" that was short enough. But the first time I did cut an allen wrench to make it shorter. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Buy the tool from Al at American Sport Bike, it will ease your pain. I'm especially glad I got it after having to loosen everything back up since I had the manifold pointed too high. Made for a late night last night but I can't imagine having done it with improvised tools. 'Course if you want to ride on the holiday weekend, check the knowledge vault -http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3591.html?1120251408 just scroll to the bottom and start reading. -Mike | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Guess you got it done then, are you using the "T" handle wrenches or did you cut the ball end off and use a wrench on the cut section? | ||
| Patrickh |
I cut down an allen wrench and keep it just for this job, I am not a big fan of ball end allen wrenches. | ||
| Seth |
"...I am not a big fan of ball end allen wrenches..." Why not? It's loads of fun every time the little ball end snaps off and gets itself stuck inside the bolt recess  | ||
| Ryker77 |
The ball end allens worked on the right side. Fuel injection would have made it impossible to use anything else. But the new carb intake was easy to install. I could use my short 1/4 allen bit and a 1/4 wrench to tighten things down. So nice to have the right tools. | ||
| Raceautobody |
Ryker77, Did you find that the intake seals were bad when you pulled the the FI intake. Al | ||
| Jackbequick |
I just did the seals on my 2000 M2. It only has 2400 miles on it but seems to idle rough. I used a 3/8" piece off of a 1/4" allen wrench and used a small 1/4" box end wrench. I don't think the seals were leaking, they showed good contact patches on the heads and were so well-adhered to clamps that I had to peel them out. I did a scientific wag on the torque settings putting the new ones in. I couldn't get my torque wrench on those, especially the left side. Not much difference. After a couple of short test jaunts, I've decided that Buells are cold blooded and not particularly smooth running at idle/lower RPM. I'm running a total loss ignition system until my new voltage regulator gets here (should be here tomorrow). I should also have my replacement air box pack plate soon (thanks to Littlebuggles for that) and will get to go for a ride. Jack | ||
| Patrickh |
a little WD-40 sprayed around the seal at idle will tell you if you have an intake leak. The idle will flutter if your leaking. I change my intake and carb seals every 2 years. | ||
| Ryker77 |
my intake seal look OK. But they could have been replaced when the PO changed pistons. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jack Have you rejetted your M2? It needs a 45 pilot instead of the stock 42. Also open up the adjustment screw and set it to 2.5 turns. Makes a heck of a difference. If you already have that done, never mind... carry on! | ||
| Jackbequick |
No, I've only had the bike about two months. It was last registered in 2001, had been ridden very little in the last three years, and only had 2,100 miles on it when I got it. Am still working on figuring it all out. Thanks for the tip on the carb settings and stuff, I'll have to check that out. I want to go through the carb to just clean it up but probably won't do that until this winter. Once it is warmed up it seems fine, nice even idle at 950-1,000 or so. I like a bike that you can maneuver around on at an idle or just off it with the clutch out, but this one is not that way. It is a little jerky and does not really smooth out until about 1,800 RPM or so. I would probably like lower gearing but I'm not going mess with that. I've just retrained myself to use the clutch more at low speeds. My next thing on my list is to adjustment on the primary chain. I've had to buy a battery and a voltage regulator so far. I want to bring it up to good reliable and rideable condition, I think I'm getting close. Jack | ||
| Aesquire |
Jack, Jump on the slow jet right away. The cold blood warms right up. & choke can be turned off right away.. Cyclones like the idle @ 1100. ( oil pressure goes away below 700, & that's bad. ) Think Sportster on Red Bull, the Thunderstorm heads breath deeper. Do both & low speed starts will improve a lot. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/104550.html?1111722093 http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm Use Blake's settings. I drilled only partway into the plug & used a screw to remove. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jack, When you do the carb (right away, all your stumbling a low RPM will go away) replace the carb boot. It's cheap and even though you have low milage, your is probably stiff and will start leaking soon. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Aesquire - Thanks for the carb tips, I had already printed out Blakes notes but the CV mods page has a lot of good info. Bluzm2 - Carb boot? The rubber sleeve that slips on the manifold and the carb slides into it, right? That has about 50 miles on it now. I'm going to get the #45 jet tomorrow and will probably get through all this in the next few days. If I find a #45 reamer in my collection, I may make a 45 out of my 42. I found I had a cracked air box back plate, posted a "wanted" in the classified, and one of the regulars immediately gave me a good one. I really like this group! I've got the bits and pieces to make a catch can and I'm going to re-route the breathers and get them out of the air cleaner. It was not too bad in there because of the low miles. Today I noticed someone is parting out an M2 on eBay, a search for "buell cyclone" will turn up some parts if anyone is looking for something. Thanks to all for the help here. Jack | ||
| Jackbequick |
It's like a miracle! I changed the slow speed jet to a #45, unplugged the mixture adjusting screw and set it to 2-1/2 turns. And its like a whole different bike. Warms up better, idles smoother, and is much much smoother at low RPM. I love it! I did not mess with anything else, did not even take the top off the carb. As soon as I make a flexible screwdriver I'll fine tune the mixture. Maybe it'll get even better. I drove it about 50 miles at speeds from 25 to 60 MPH. Did about 1 mile of stop and go and that was much more pleasant. Almost all my riding is on secondary roads so I'm much happier with this bike now. Thanks for the help. Jack | ||
| Jimincalif |
Couple points: * In my experience, the ball-end hex wrenches for this size bolt are reasonably tough. I haven't broken one yet. * Two of the four bolts total do NOT need to be removed all the way. The intake manifold is slotted instead of having full-on holes. Just loosen the two bolts at those "slot locations" a bit and remove the other two, the manifold will slide right out. * On the two bolts that need to come all the way out, I use three tools at once: the ball-end hex wrench, a fairly small wrench like a 10mm or 1/2" with an enclosed round drive on one end, open-end at the other, and a small vice grips. The "ring end" of the wrench goes on the short end of the hex wrench and acts as a "driver", with the vice grips on the other end of the 10mm or 1/2" wrench. It sounds complex but it allows spinning the bolts out continuously. |
