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Dave
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 12:53 pm: |
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Attempting to remove the left isolator mount from the S2 to get off the primary cover. The lower allen bolt is giving me fits. I've snugged down the other two first, used an air tool (sheared allen head tool & got it out), and have started to apply heat from a propane torch. ANy other ideas? This is the aluminum side plate that mounts to the frame. Uses a 7/32 allen. DAve (Message edited by dave on June 28, 2005) |
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Mikej
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:23 pm: |
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I"ve been told you can just barely sneak the primary cover off without removing the sideplate. But at this point you're probably on the right track since you're now forced to continue. In one of the brake rotor removal threads mention was made to weld a nut to the top of the screw/bolt to use a better wrench on it. |
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Bluzm2
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:29 pm: |
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I had to drill mine off on the left side. It was a drag. |
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Dave
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:30 pm: |
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I'll *milk crate zen* & try to get it off without removing the side plate. Everything is still intact with the fasteners...nothing is boogered up yet. I didn't know if folks have ever filed away some of the isolator plate to squeak the cover off. DAve |
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Mikej
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 01:37 pm: |
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I've seen pics of polished side plates, and sideplates with the back half chopped off and welded back on (ebay?), haven't seen a pic of one clearanced for the primary cover yet. I"ll take a look at mine tonight since I"m due to dive into there fairly soon for a primary shoe status check. If you do clearance the sideplate then please post a pic of your results. Might be worth a session with the Dremel tool if it works as opposed to removing the screws from the sideplate. edit: I think it was Aaron who was able to get the primary cover off his S2 without removing the sideplate. (Message edited by mikej on June 28, 2005) |
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Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 04:03 pm: |
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I'd heard about being able to sneak the primary cover by as well ... no amount of Zen made it happen for me though The bolts can be a complete pain the first time you remove them. Propane torch as well as a solid *SMACK* with a brass drift has been mentioned as good ways to loosen those. However, I was told the same about the old rotor bolts, and I ended up having nuts welded to those bolts before they came out. Cost me at least 3 broken allen bits, a tank of propane and a book or two of curse words before I gave up and had the welding done though If you have access to a welder/welding machine, just go for the nuts ... Now, when I remove the side plates, I always anti-seize the bolts upon installation. Henrik |
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Dave
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 06:37 pm: |
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Thanks for the ideas Henrik... *milk crate zen* didn't work for me. It looks like I'll pick up more propane, IDIOT's Guide to Cussin' & Swearin', a drift, and maybe a new drill bit. ...second thought-I think I have that book memorized from the front rotor on my '99. DAve |
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S2pengy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 08:52 pm: |
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I have mentioned it several times before, I use a screwknocker on a rivet gun... Kind of a pneumatic version of a hammer type impact... If they have had loctite used on the bolts when installed it seems it coats the large flat surface of the countersink and can seal it up real good... Heat breaks down loctite so it might be helpful... Also use the screwknocker on the front and rear brake rotors |
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Court
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:40 am: |
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The primary cover will come off without removal of the sideplate. I recently had such and experience when Phil, the Young Jedi Buell Technician at Liberty, replaced the primary show on my S-2. He fought gallantly, enlisting help from a bevy of techs as Softtails stood waiting for chromimum watchamacallits on gray lifts. Alas a call the Fireman Jim yielded one of the secrets of the S-2 and the cover was off. Ergo, it can be done. The funnier part of this tale, and it's no reflection on Phil or anybody, is that my bike, through an odd set if circumstatiations, ended up in the hands of an old pal recently returned from Iraq. Making mention that the sideplate would be impossible to get off was met with a laugh as it was removed within a minute. This, dear friends, illustrates two things:
- EXPERIENCE COUNTS - a technique gained over 20 years of sideplating is of value.
- $30,000 of SNAP-ON TOOLS - this really plays no part, I am sure I will be told, but for people like the Great Dane and I, it's sufficient reason to continue UTB (Unabated Tool Buying).
There's something about a 5'6" Buell Tech with a 6'2" toolbox.
Court |
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Henrik
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 10:43 am: |
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Ohhhh, toooools .... So would this rivet tool dohickey be something like this: http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4351283P2118239-Rivet-Gun-Sets/RS5-.401-Shank-Sna p-on-Industrial-Rivet-Gun-Assist-Hex-Tool.aspx And how does that work with a rivet gun?? Henrik |
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Road_thing
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 10:43 am: |
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UTB is good, but 30 large only buys the basic kit from Snap-On! rt Bought myself an OA welding rig for Christmas last year. UTB indeed! |
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Henrik
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 10:51 am: |
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And here's one that, had the sticker shock not dried up my spit glands, would have me droooooling: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=68395&group_ID=17 226&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Henrik |
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Davefl
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 11:36 am: |
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Henrik, on the rivet gun think air hammer and not pop rivets. Air hammers are used to set solid rivets in aircraft building.
![rivet gun](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/124390.jpg) |
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Henrik
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 11:52 am: |
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Dave; gotcha. I was thinking it'd have to be something like that. Air hammer it is. So, is the screw knocker what I linked to above - 4 posts up? Thanks Henrik |
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Dave
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:18 pm: |
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...and I didn't remove the isolator plate DAve |
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Henrik
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:29 pm: |
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Show-off Henrik |
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Dave
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:41 pm: |
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Rather than keep this a the guarded Buell Zen *secret*, I'll break ranks. The *secret* to removing the primary cover on an S2 is to jack up the front of the engine slightly. Long live the BAdWeb KV! DAve ...plus I learned what a screw knocker is... |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:43 pm: |
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Let me guess... if you loosen the primary chain tensioner completey, there is enough play in the cover once the bolts are out to remove those hollow cylindrical guides at either end one at a time, which then gives you sufficient clearance to just remove it all together? Just guessing. If I right, does somebody give me an S2? |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:45 pm: |
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Doh! Dave and I cross posted. I guess I don't get the S2 ![: (](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/sad.gif) |
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Dave
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 05:13 pm: |
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On one of my milk crate Zen sessions I actually looked into that Reepicheep. It seemed the shifter shaft still through the cover prevented forward movement. Plus the chain tensioner (while loose) is still in place. DAve |
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S2pengy
| Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 08:50 pm: |
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Henrik Yes you found it, any questions drop me a line.. Most require a 301 hole on the rivet gun sooo some cheap air hammers may not work... Very common outfit in aircraft maintance for removing stuck fasteners |
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Court
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 04:21 am: |
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pure lust Henrik. . . is that what one would need to remove rotor carrier to hub bolts? (Message edited by court on June 30, 2005) (Message edited by court on June 30, 2005) |
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S2pengy
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 08:42 am: |
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Court As I said I use it for the brake rotors as well.. |
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Henrik
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 09:27 am: |
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Cool, Thanks Todd. I'll start browsing rivet guns/air hammers and find something cheap that'll fit ... I'll post my results here for your approval And Court - pure lust indeed. And yes, I think that assist tool would have been a great help in removing rotor bolts. Henrik |
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Court
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 10:23 am: |
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Henrik: Do you have one? If not, I'll buy one and we'll add it to the "Metro Gotham Specialized Tools Pool". I should have nver gone to that Snap-On site....I can't get the motorcycle hydrualic lift off my mind! |
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Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 11:03 am: |
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OK, fellers -- how is this rivet gun different/better than an air/electric impact hammer thingie? |
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Road_thing
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 11:16 am: |
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Silly Bomber--it costs more, it must be better! rt |
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Henrik
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 12:55 pm: |
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Court - nope, I don't have one. Would be cool to have access to one though - hint, hint Bomber, I was wondering the same thing. Came across a few very cheap air hammers, but none of them mentioned what size hole they are? OTOH, all the rivet guns I can find are basically air powered pop rivet dealies. What's a guy to do? Henrik |
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Road_thing
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 01:23 pm: |
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Well, Henrik, the true tool-buying junky would be looking at EDM machines. But I used a propane torch and a BFH. Maybe your Danish curse words lose their potency on this side of the ocean? rt |
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S2pengy
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 09:13 pm: |
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You guys need to hook up with an aircraft mechanic in your area, there are always surplus tools around... The aircraft manufactures usually have old inventory outlets which can have great deals.... If no luck I know the rivet guns at least are on ebay alot.... |
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Henrik
| Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 10:20 pm: |
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So, from the looks of it these may work ...? http://www.toolrage.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=916 http://www.backyardgardener.com/gp/Equipment_Tools/Air_Tools/Air_Hammers.html http://www.enfasco.com/HiShear2.htm http://www.cptoolsonline.com/HTML%20pages/Hammers%20Chippers%20Scalers/Hammers%2 0Chippers%20and%20Scalers.htm Henrik |
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S2pengy
| Posted on Friday, July 01, 2005 - 08:35 am: |
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yes |