| Author | Message | ||
     Prez |
my 2000 x1 wont go into neutral...you can hold tha lever and it will temporarily go neutral...but let off the pressure and it pops into gear on it's own...i am thinking of doing the repair myself...i have a shop manual..and tools...and i feel like i'm pretty competent..(that and i dont wanna pay 75$ and hr for something i think i can do).anyone wanna point me in a direction as far as where to start...havent done much wrenching on motorcycles b4...is this too much for a newbie mechanic?? i'm an A&P apprentice..so reading manuals is what I do all day...thanx all..prez | ||
| Dsergison |
getting in there is no big deal at all. I was just right there today myself. you will need at least a 30mm socket(clutch), an 1 1/8 socket (flywheel), snap ring pliers, an allen set for the cover bolts. the big nuts that hold the clutch and the flywheel need removed. that's the hardest part and the reason for the sockets. probably should have a big torque wrench for that too.  | ||
| Awprior |
And a 'something' to wedge between the sprockets to keep them from turning, if you aren't using an impact. The flywheel basket has conventional threads, the clutch basket threads are left handed. Toss in a few bits of 1/4"-20 all thread to help you get the primary cover back on as well... And RED locktite and NEW nuts for the flywheel and clutch nuts. Worked on those on the road one time, nut came loose a few miles from home. Bad thing. I'd say check the detent plate, which sits behind the clutch. Mine had jumped off of the mounting pins and was at a weird position. Neutral was shady, as was shifting in higher gear. Reep had something posted about the shift drum pins working out, that is what was wrong with mine. Alex | ||
| Patrickh |
Yeah, sounds like those pins behind the detent plate. The manual tells you how far they should stick out. I just tapped mine back into tolerance and replaced the detent plate with the updated version. A 2000 may have the the more "star" shaped detent plate, I had the older "lobed" model. Although I agree that replacing the crankshaft and clutch nuts is a good idea, I have had mine on and off twice without any problems, I just soaked the pieces in parts cleaner and used a nylon brush to remove any old locktite before I applied new locktite and torqued accordingly. | ||
| Patrickh |
Sorry I just read my post and realized that I wrote it like you were hanging out with me while I was fixing my bike. I had the same problem. It turned out that the issue was caused by these three pins on the shifter drum that locate the detent plate (sometimes called shifter star.) One of them had worked its way out of tolerance(too long), and it was causing the detent plate to lay on an angle. I tapped the offending pin back into position, so the detent plate returned to a paralell position in relationship to the shifter drum and the problem was solved. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
If you have one or more of the pins "walk" out, pull it all the way out and use Loctite Red before you tap it back in. Also check your chain tensioner while your in there. Replace it if it's the old thin plate style or you will be going back in there to replace it. | ||
| Prez |
thanx all...i'll let u know how it goes...or i'll be back asking more questions again..lol..prez | ||
| Prez |
hey bluzm2..how do i tell if it's the old one?? prez |
