| Author | Message | ||
     Nemster |
I was wiping down my 97 S-1 and when I came to the front rotor it is very loose. I tried to tighten it a little but it wont budge. Is this supposed to be like this?? Help guys I wanna' ride tommorow!! | ||
| Nemster |
Nobody?? | ||
| M1combat |
Is it a floating rotor? Is it loose between the carrier and the rotor or between the carrier and the wheel? Have you felt it before? If so is it MORE loose? I'm fairly sure that the 97S1 has a floating rotor, but I couldn't tell w/o actually rattling it myself if it was too loose... | ||
| Nemster |
It is loose between the carrier and rotor. I was hoping someone would say something about a floating rotor cause I was thinking that is what it is but I wanna' be sure before I ride!! Thanks btw!! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Just from my various readings here, it seems that the pre 99 buells all have that funky rattling loose rotor. It's not a problem but for peace of mind you can upgrade it to the new one and not have any rattle. Just a lot of float going on there... The question has been asked a few times, I think more often regarding the S2's. You might have to sift to find it in the KV or old school sections. -Mike | ||
| Nemster |
I know the new Lightnings have a front floater. There really is no rattle that I can tell when riding I just wanted to be sure it is a floater. I honeslty have a hard time using the other forums here. The quickboard always seems to work for me. Thanks!!! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
No problem, I'm pretty sure they're all floating (model years I mean) but I'm no expert on Buells and know little of the early models so that's just me talking there... but it seems like if there is a separate carrier from the actual rotor it is meant to float. Kinda surprised I'm not the only one up right now. I was pondering various locations to ask if anyone has a stock air box they want out of the garage. I'm thinking I like that way they look (?!?!? yeah, seems odd to me too). -Mike | ||
| Al_lighton |
The floating rotor that floats too much is a common problem. The carrier holes elongate due to high bearing stresses on the 6 buttons. The more they elongate, the more chatter and faster they elongate more. It is possible to buy the carrier, rotor, and buttons, but there isn't any point. The whole new 2000 Spec rotor is not expensive at all, and it has 9 carrier buttons that won't exhibit this problem. Others may chime in "but wait, that 2000 spec rotor is stainless, but the 97 rotor was steel with a higher friction coefficient". This came up in Erik Buell's tech seminar at homecoming. He indicated that while it is true that a new plain steel has a slightly higher friction coefficient when compared to a new stainless rotor, in the real world, the steel rotor rusts. Using the brakes on a rusty rotor embeds rust crap in the pads, which then causes the system to have a lower friction coefficient. So for real world street usage instead of a track, the stainless rotor actually is superior. Get the 2000 spec rotor. You'll need new bolts as well, which is a bit of a problem right now since they've been on back order at Buell for about 3 months. Supposedly, that is supposed to break soon. Also, removing your old rotor may be a bit of a challenge. Those flat head bolts are in there TIGHT and are usually binding hard. Many a bueller has had to resort to welding a nut to the top of each bolt head in order to remove them. Sounds worse than it is, it's pretty trivial with even a home welder. Al | ||
| Road_thing |
I've had good luck getting the rotor bolts out by heating the heads with a propane torch, just enough to break down the threadlocker. I'm not saying they come out easily, but at least you won't break your wrenches! rt | ||
| Buelliedan |
Like RT says, hit each bolt with a propane torch for about 7 seconds before attenpting to loosen. Otherwise you will break off you allen wrench socket! | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Good Luck with that, I just recently replaced my rotor and it took about 3hrs to get out the bolts. Damm Bolts. No amount of heat or anything would break the thread locker. They finally had to have the heads drilled off, the carrier removed, each individual bolt then drilled out with a larger bit each time, an easy out inserted the hub GENTLY heated and the bolts finally came out. There is no problem with the new bolts up here in the Great White North. My local Harley Retailer ordered them and I had it the next day. Its really a hell I don't want to go through again. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Ah, I guess I was just "up in the night then". Why have so many said the rattling rotor is okay, or is that "normal" instead? Seems like a lot of folks are riding that way. Is it one of those things that just bugs you until you fix it or it fails? -Mike | ||
| Road_thing |
Mike, I could be wrong, but my opinion is that the rattle is just an annoyance, not a safety issue. I don't think it signifies impending brake failure or anything like that. If it bugs you, switch to the new style rotor that Al sells, but don't worry about the noise. Shoot, if you've spent any time aboard a Ducati with a dry clutch that rattling disc wouldn't bother you at all! rt | ||
| Smoke |
the loosest, noisiest rotor i had on my s1 stopped the smoothest. i just got tired of the rattling. it's embarassing at stoplights. common statement--- it only rattles if i'm not using the brake. ride safe, tim | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Nem, Dave S. has parts with the fabulous badweb discount, if'n you want to upgrade your rotor... | ||
| Firemanjim |
Smack those bolts with a big brass drift a couple of times--works for me. | ||
| 98cyclone |
Littlebuggles I don't know if you were just tired when you asked about the stock air box but I have one that I don't want, name your price. The air box I have came off of a 98 m2. Kelly | ||
| Ocbueller |
Nemster, Are there bolts and nuts attaching the rotor to carrier or is it a snap ring type attachment? There was a factory recall upgrade to the bolt on arrangement. I tried the recall setup for awhile but eventually opted for the better 2000 rotor and carrier. SteveH | ||
| Bob_thompson |
I like to use a system thats a combination of Jim's and Tom's to get flathead bolts out that have been Loctited but it takes a helper. After heating to loosen the Loctite I have a helper put pressure on an allen wrench while I use a hammer and a center punch to help turn out the bolt. Usually saves the bolt but leaves the center punch mark on the head of the bolt. Easily cleaned up though. Bob |
