| Author | Message | ||
     Stainlessmag |
Has anyone ever tried baking something after using rattle can paint on it. I was thinking of doing this on the piece i am moding and painting, thinking that it might give the paint a little extra strength. Any thoughts are welcome. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Hello Stainless - As a matter of fact, I have done quite a bit of experimenting with baking rattle can paint. As you can see from my profile photo, I have painted my helmet, my seat cowl, frame pucks among other things. I have found the following paint procedure produces a rattle can paint job that is much harder and stronger than just plain spraying. 1. Sand part smooth, ending with 220 sandpaper 2. Prime with spray primer, bake at 200 degrees for a couple of hours. 2. Sand, spray with thin coat of color, bake at 200 for 2 hours. 3. repeat twice: you can paint again as soon as the piece is cool enough to handle. 4. for higher gloss, sand with 220 or extra fine steel wool, spray with thin layer of clear coat, bake. Two coats is plenty. The thing to NOT do, is to put the paint on too thickly, and put on too many coats: this will give you a very hard coating that is brittle, and can easily chip off. Modern spray paints have anti-run additives so you can get a lot of paint on without runs: don't do it:-). One of the nice things about this technique is that you don't have to wait days for the paint to dry. PS. I did not bake the frame pucks or the helmet: I was afraid it just might damage the foam or adhesives. I usually use Krylon Paint: Their OSHA Safety Yellow is a pretty close match to Buell Yellow. | ||
| Patrickh |
I have never used an oven to bake spray paint but I do airbrush helmets a bit. For a nice glossy surface I wet-sand with first 1000grit and then 5000grit sandpaper. Most good auto body stores will carry this stuff. IMO 220 cuts a little too deeply, unless you are trying to smooth off surface impefections. just my 2 cents. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Good point Patrick. I find for the compound curves that a lot of motorcycle parts have, that the 0000 steel wool gives a very good surface, and is a bit easier to handle than wet sand paper. The other reason that I recommend 220 is that rattle can paint doesn't go down as smoothly as airbrush, ( especially when I am doing the spraying:-), so every coat seems to need a little bit of flattening. After I get the paint flat, I smooth out the sandpaper marks with the steel wool. | ||
| Stainlessmag |
Thanks for the info guys. I was in a bit of a rush to do it this time due to the fact that im leaving sun morn. for Lake George. But when i get back i think the parts are going to be redone. | ||
| Fullpower |
my day job is rebuilding starters and alternators. my wife built a small paint booth for the business. it contains a 250 watt heat lamp, which at close range serves to bake the painted parts pretty well. about 5 years ago i painted the rocker box covers on sportster, 2 coats semi gloss black, baked under lights 4 hours between coats. still looks good on bike after 45,000 miles. |
