| Author | Message | ||
     Angushendrick |
I got myself a $10 12V DC fan and I'm going to install it as soon as I figure out how to wire it into the bike. Can anyone tell me how to connect it? Thanks, Angus | ||
| Odinbueller |
Without knowing the fan, you can hookup the positive lead tot he main circuit breaker, and the negative to the chassis ground, but the fan will run all the time unless you insert a switch on the positive lead. | ||
| Oldog |
Hi Angus I'm Home tonight please tell me current that the fan draws I wired mine into the neutral light circuit under the tank for testing purposes the fan would run when the bike is in neutral If interested I can try and give you some info Od | ||
| Angushendrick |
Sorry for the delay. I thought I had already posted this info... The fan draws 0.33A and has a 3-wire connector, with red, blue, and black wires. Angus | ||
| Oldog |
Angus: A quick question, do all 3 lines carry power or just red / black ?, usualy red & black do poliraty same as the battery. Jim | ||
| Oldog |
Angus: heres how I did the connections, the instrument pod wiring for the indicator lights runs up under the tank above the front cylinder head the wires of interest are tan, from the neutral switch, and orange from + 12 v in essence the neutral switch connects the neutral light to ground. I used scotch locks conncetors and rubber tape (it was temporary) there are better ways to take the tank off: you will need torks, and allen drivers. other tools may be required as well you must relieve the fuel pressure before you remove the line remove the Seat remove the front screws from the tank cover and the breather line at the "gas cap" remove the left scoop 3 screws and carefuly remove the scoop. remove the front screw for the air cleaner housing loosen the cover OR remove the cover per the owners manual be careful not to damage the mounting ears these body parts fasten with rubber well nuts and screws if you opt to remove the air box cover inspect the seals they leak and let dirt in. at the rear of the tank cover remove 2 allen socket head screws that hold the rear cover clamp remove the cover, you can set it and the other parts out of the way now. raise the rear of the fuel cell and locate a 4 wire harness going into the fuel tank this connects to the fuel pump disconect it. start the bike, continue to attempt starting for 3 or 4 more seconds to release the pressure check for and remove any clamps on the tank fuel outlet. wrap the line in a rag, protect your eyes and hands here and remove the hose from the tank outlet be careful not to use excessive force on the outlet or turn it. the hose will come off (don't do what i did and get a face full of gas) you can then lift up slightly and gently rear ward the fuel cell will come off catch the stray gas that will be in the filter | ||
| Oldog |
Angus please note some "pros" simply turn the tank over on a support, I think that its in the way here. locate the 2 wires of interest and trace to a likely point that is not crowded, not too far from the fan location, out of sight. using skotch loks, expose them and tap in, or use conventional splice and solder methods i would go with some heat shrink tubing over the joints as I expect that you will be doing this permanently. leave the wires to the fan long to start arrange and mount the fan as desired. I think that all home brew jobs use Tywraps I actualy mounted mine behind the scoop "hole" and re located the horn up under the bottom front scoop mount. In the scoop may be better. for the fan. You know what you want best. assembley of the bike is in reverse order check the hose connection wiring and the seat placement before riding I hope that this helps if I can help you further please leave me a pm I look forward to hearing about the job JimB | ||
| Angushendrick |
Thanks Jim! Before I go this route, the one question that occurs to me is do you ever wish your fan was on when you aren't in neutral? For example, when I'm in stop and go traffic I expect lots of clutch and 1st gear, but not so much sitting in neutral? I can imagine you can work this if you're quick with the shifter, but I thought I'd ask before I cut any wires... Angus | ||
| Oldog |
I just jumped shifted to N and coasted when possible I also do not hold the clutch its a personal habit This may be bad technique but when stopped with a stopped cage behind me I find neutral and let the clutch out rather than sit and hold it if theres no one behind me I watch and and some times hold it in. The light is just an easy way to do it that you don't have to think about. you can also use orange and the chassis ground for a toggle switch (on with ignition) Orange is the instrument feed if i read the diagram correctly. I had strobes under the chin faring for a while you could hide a toggle under the seat and then the wires get simpler and the tank may not need to be removed. your call bro! hey did you get a chance to swap the bars out? I have considered that as well some days (Message edited by oldog on May 29, 2005) | ||
| Angushendrick |
I think I like the idea of attaching it to the neutral light, but what's "jump shifted"? The other alternative I'm still considering is an automatic temperature switch. I'm in tinkering heaven. I'm thinking I'm gonna install the new head covers from the XBs (to reduce oil puking) while I have the tank off for the electric mods, and mod the air box at least to get the oil to go somewhere else. I just need to figure out where... Regarding the bars. I just took mine off. I'm supposed to swap them (hopefully soon) with Tbolt_pilot. I'm also contemplating getting rid of the rear fender using the "chop up the existing fender" method described on this site, but I can't figure out where the license plate ends up if I do that (and I'm not gonna pay $80 for a new holder). Angus | ||
| Oldog |
Hi again. perhaps I should restate launch and coast ie drop the clutch a few seconds get moving and then coast in neutral.  cheap stuff, watch E-bay Bro,  but YOU allready knew that  One last thing MY soap box issue  watch out for the carbon fiber on e-bay its oh so tempting quality is spotty and the vendors change almost as often as I change socks Aaomy has been kind enough to do me a favor and is going to whittle me up a billet dash, I added oil temp and press gauges. I thought I saw a billet tail bracket on E-bay a while back i check it frequently and I will give you a heads up if I find any thing There is a thread in the KV I think on the XB boxes. I want one of Aarons spooge cans, billet jewelry for the bike! besides I have braided vent lines and "fancy" clamp covers Like I said Angus you will adjust it to your tastes. Fun aint it?  as allways great to "talk to you" if you make it to the coast I just a few hours away in Wilmington NC. (Message edited by oldog on May 29, 2005) | ||
| Oldog |
Angus: If you find the temp switch I would be curious to know what you shell out for it and where to get it thanks Jim | ||
| Angushendrick |
My web surfing has convinced me that the switch I want exists at a relatively low price, the problem is finding the @#$#@% thing in the incredibly large and disorganized world of electronics parts. More to follow. Angus | ||
| Oldog |
Hey Angus! check this out  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35557&item=455 2697252&rd=1 | ||
| Angushendrick |
Thanks, I threw down a bid, but I'm gettin' beat up pretty bad on the home front for the functional bits I wanna buy. This is hard sell even at $50... Angus | ||
| Sjh |
for those of you interested in a billet plate holder, I have a buddy who is building some billet plate holders with LEDs blinkers built into the sides. it looks awesome and cleans up the rear. I will get some pics after I get it installed. not two sure what he is going to charge, but the LEDs that he puts in there are around $35. just thought I would post for someone who may be interested in something different. | ||
| Denfromphilly |
See if you can buy the actual harley switch that turns on the fan. the switch is part # Y0052.k and the bracket it mounts on is R0052.K. The bracket and switch mount on the head and the positive lead to the fan goes from the circuit breaker through the switch to the fan. I have the mounting instructions with part numbers and can email them if you write me off line at denis12658@yahoo.com Den 99X1 with fan. | ||
| Angushendrick |
Great idea! The parts were only $30 all together. They're on the way from Dave S. Angus | ||
| Cereal |
Let me know how it turned out, and post some pics if you can. I was thinking about wiring two computer case fans. An 80mm between the cylinders and either an 80mm or a 120mm by the battery facing the rear cylinder. Two maybe over kill, what do you think? (Message edited by cereal on June 04, 2005) | ||
| Jackbequick |
On the computer case fans that have three leads, the third lead is for a tachometer, it provides the fan speed reading to monitoring software. I think the tach provides one tick or pulse per rev, not sure though. You can reverse the fan direction on those by reversing the polarity (normally red pos and black neg) and vary the speed by varying the voltage. Jack | ||
| Cereal |
Not these fans Jack. I got the fans that have two leads and go between the power lines and drive. DC 12v 0.13a | ||
| Angushendrick |
Thanks Jack. My fan is has red, black, and blue leads. I'm guessing the blue one is the "third lead." Cereal, I'll let you know how my mounting job goes, and try to post some pics. It's gonna be a little while before its done, because I need to get the parts (switch), which are coming in the mail from Daves and I'm planning on doing this in conjunction with the replacement of the rocker covers (which forces me to take the gas tank off too). As to the two fan question, see the discussion under the "A Few Engine and Ergonomics Mods" in the Old School section. There seems to be a reasonable amount of cooling to provide. My experience with fans says that the key is directing the air flow. Open fans suffer a big efficiency hit because they recirculate air from the outlet to the inlet. Mounting the fan on a plate or with a duct at the outlet helps a lot. With two fans, its important to be careful that their flows don't interfere. Murphy says that any interference will be destructive. I'm going to start with just one fan, mounted on a plate behind and to the left of the rear cylinder, and see how it goes. DC summers get pretty hot, but I think I might be alright with full synthetic and just the one fan. Angus | ||
| Cereal |
I spoke to a friend that works at a local HD dealer (who has an M2). He said that running synthetic helps a ton and if you wire a fan, the best place is to aim it between the cylinders. Do you know what temp the switch trips at? Doesn't the switch attach to the top of an x1 rocker cover? So if I didn't want to replace the rocker covers on my S1, the switch wouldn't mount, correct? | ||
| Angushendrick |
I don't know what temp. the switch trips at. Good point about mounting the switch. I guess I'm about to find out... Angus | ||
| Denfromphilly |
I checked out my bike and the XB rocker, there is no good way to mount the switch that I see. My fan seems to blow on the fuel injection and not the heads. It turns on too hot, I wish it turned on sooner. I does not seem to actually move a lot of air, when it's on and the bike is running you can only feel more heat on the right side but not a stream of air. It almost always turns on when the bike is first turned off and parked. My 6 year old battery died the second day with the fan and I had to replace it. Good luck with the solution and post what you do to solve the switch position with the XB rocker. I want to do the XB mod very soon too. My next mod is a 26 tooth front pulley so I can do easier wheelies. Actually my bike has a higher lift cam and the rev's are too low in traffic and through school zones and I hope this improves it. Den 99X1 | ||
| Denfromphilly |
Cereal, I like the second fan idea, I think I will wire one into my bike to cool the rear cylinder. Den 99X1 |
