Author |
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Patrickh
| Posted on Saturday, May 28, 2005 - 07:08 pm: |
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Ok, I noticed I had a leaking base gasket on my rear cylinder. I replaced the gasket, and all was well until I went out and caned the bike well (prolonged higher RPM's) and the oil weep returned. I pulled the head again and looked at the mating surfaces on the case and cylinder and there seemed to be a few nicks in the material on the head. None of them were deep, and none extended across the entire surface that the gasket covered. (I bought the bike used, and the rear cylinder rockerbox gasket was updated when I got it, so it is possible that I am not the hamfist who nicked the cylinder during the old gasket removal) It's not a ton of oil, just a little puddle that accumulates after an hour or so of riding. It is not the wire that comes off the magnet because I RTV'ed the grommet, and its not the starter because that has a fresh gasket also. I used some 3M surface conditioning discs to fine clean the mating surfaces, and I put in a new gasket. A hundred miles later and the oil weep has returned again. I talked to a guy at the dealership who suggested that possibly the studs are streching because the weep only seems to return after the bike runs at high RPM's. Does anyone have any thoughts? Will metal gaskets help? Should I fill the nicks? |
Rippin
| Posted on Saturday, May 28, 2005 - 08:21 pm: |
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"3M surface conditioning discs" 3M surface wrecking aluminum discs? not good on Buells!! No longer true and flat surfaces!! New razor blade w/brake cleaner much easier on surfaces. I have not had good look on Au parts with any 3M discs!! Just my 2cents worth Ryan |
Spiderman
| Posted on Saturday, May 28, 2005 - 08:51 pm: |
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If it is at the rear and pooling by the starter, then you do not have a base gasket leak. That little rubber plug where the stator wires come outta is leaking. You will have to take the primary cover off. Pop out that rubber gromet and ooze it up with a little RTV sealer and why you are in there replace your starter gasket too, Just in case. |
Bandm
| Posted on Saturday, May 28, 2005 - 10:37 pm: |
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You could try metal gaskets with Loctite 518 Gasket Eliminator smeared on them. Option 2 no gaskets just high temp RTV. This method is recommended by HD for racing use, and RTV is used to seal the crankcase halves. No gaskets will raise your compression ratio a couple of tenths. Option 3 no gaskets just Gasket Eliminator, although I haven't tried this one. Mark |
Patrickh
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2005 - 07:56 am: |
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I was thinking James Gaskets smeared with RTV. Anyone done this? I don't want to change the compression, and I would like to not have to do the front also. |
Spiderman
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2005 - 04:07 pm: |
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SO you are a 100% sure it is the base gasket then huh? |
Snowdave
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2005 - 05:23 pm: |
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I bought some pig tails that are said to cure this problem. I bought them from sturgisswapmeet.com. Unfortunately, I only found out once they arrived that they cannot be used on big bore cylinders. They basically provide a tube that gets screwed into the cylinder and extends down below the base gasket. They even include the tap you need to install them. |
Patrickh
| Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2005 - 11:45 pm: |
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SO you are a 100% sure it is the base gasket then huh? yes. it's been coated in RTV for quite some time. Also, gear oil smells different from natural base motor oil, different color too. |
Bandm
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2005 - 01:37 am: |
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Use a gasket that matches the front, thickness vary by brand, and some brands offer multiple thicknesses. The gasket eliminator is also a gasket dressing and since it is anaerobic it will not harden where exposed to air (inside and outside the engine)only hardening on the sealing surfaces. Any excess that squeezes out can be removed with brake cleaner, and will be washed away internally by engine oil. Oil should be changed after 50 miles after any repair to remove contaminants like sealer, old gasket material, dirt, dust, scotchbrite disc abrasive (icky bad), beer, and whatever else found it's way in. RTV will work also, but is hard to wipe off, and I don't like the idea of silicone snakes swimming in my engine, trying to eat my oil pump. |
Rageonthedl
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2005 - 04:07 pm: |
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If it keeps leakin and you have to do it agian i would put in cometic gaskits and replace the cylinder studs with screamin eagle ones. do both cylinders |
Rocketman
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2005 - 06:00 pm: |
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Pricey. Quality. Reusable. Recommended, which is why I chose Cometic - full top end set. Problem solved. Rocket |
Rippin
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2005 - 08:51 pm: |
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I must concur!! |
Bandm
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2005 - 11:28 pm: |
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Cometic, top notch. Full top end set, the way to go. If you suspect damage to the sealing surfaces, I would some kind of sealer no matter what brand of gasket. Hylomar? Mark |
Drfuyutsuki
| Posted on Monday, May 30, 2005 - 11:32 pm: |
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I use copper coat on all my gaskets and have had pretty good success. |
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