| Author | Message | ||
     M1combat  |
Unless some of you that have done it can change my mind, I'll be using the standard "rotate the engine" method to remove my stock header and install the Force header. If there is an easier way, I'm all ears... A couple questions... 1. Is 120-144 in/lbs the same as 10-12 ft/lbs? 2. Are there any crush washers in the exhaust ports that will need replacing? 3. Would it be worth my while to clean up the O2 sensor port? It looks like the threaded insert sicks into the header maybe 1/8" and is a bit rough. I was thinking of taking a die grinder/dremel or something to that effect to clean that up a bit before I install it. 4. Aaron or someone else who knows... I seem to remember you posting somewhere that there was a way to reinforce the sig. series exhaust so that it won't break where Misato's did, please advise. 5. I checked Misato's website and looked at where his pipe broke... I was thinking about welding a 1"X 1/16" strip over both sides of that spot. This would in effect triple the thickness of the metal there. Advisable or not? 6. Are there issues with the chin spoiler tabs breaking as well? If so, how would one go about re-inforcing those? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Ceejay |
M1 I just put one of them there forces on my M2 and I didn't put any washers in it, not sure if this is right as I have yet to fire it but the way that these had large flanges on them seemed to fit right into the head, and the crush washers that I had would just cause problems. So I guess that I am looking for some advice also to see if this is right. my thinking on the under the voltage reg mounting was that it was a moot point, only put there as a fail safe if the header and muffler became separated thus causing muffler to drop and causing said rider to grind nose off after violent stoppie occured, so i haven't put the bolts in yet and was even thinking of cutting the tab off and just having motor mounts and rear mounts, but I have put 3/8" studs in my heads thanks to the previous owners lack of wrench knowlege and thus hogging out the threads and holes to where I had to go the next size over 5/16" Haven't broke any studs or had anything else go wrong when I had the normal header and wileyco on. | ||
| Ceejay |
M1 if you still need info on those crush washers I was told to use the Screaming eagle ones from HD as the stockers are too big and will mushroom out and interrupt exhaust flow. | ||
| Gman |
M1, I just installed the 2nd gen. of the force on my xb9. I was reviewing my manual on the engine rotation for service and somewhere stumbled on the instruction for O2 sensor removal. Check it out in your manual. I used this method to access the rear jug. A little less time and trouble to remove/install the header. The downside is no provision for a torque wrench on the rear jug. If you do not trust the installation without using this tool on the rear, I do not recommend. I guess it is another option for you. Food for thought. -G- | ||
| Gman |
Very stupid of me. I just noticed your post date. Excuse me while I crawl back under my rock. -G- | ||
| M1combat |
LOL  . No problem... a lot of the KV moves pretty slow . | ||
| Tripp |
that little red thingamabob there for the rear exhaust mount, does any body know why the two pieces are connected? is that so you don't screw up the way it goes together? also how the heck is that supposed to go anyway, it has a pic on the instructions but i can think of a few different ways to install that rear mount using that little alien. in the instructions it appears the both pieces are together. they say not to tighten it too much, that's pretty clear so i figure both pieces go together anyone know the way to go here? | ||
| Tripp |
took me too long to edit, once in there i discovered there is only one logical way to install that puppy! |
