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Lgpch
| Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 07:52 pm: |
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9mm shells, anodized billet cross, polished star shaped brace.
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Imeazy
| Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 09:51 pm: |
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Nice work... I like the paint job as well. Very cool. |
Lgpch
| Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 10:48 pm: |
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Thanks. It's a simple part to make but time consuming for sure. My milling machine requires lot's of shallow passes. In regards to the paint job, the pictures don't do it justice. However the sad part is that this paint job as well as the last one (just like it) is bubbling as some of these tanks will... Damn shame. At this time I am currently in the process of fabricating my own tank because I do not dig the buell plastic. Or the plastic tail sections that crack as well. I would not ride anything else though. |
Imeazy
| Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2005 - 11:52 pm: |
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Seems everything I do is time consuming... laughs As for the paint, that's a bummer. I've been fortunate mine hasn't bubbled. I still have the original factory paint for now. Look forward to seeing your tank work when you get it completed. Since finding this site my ideas have been running wild... just wish I had the skills and equiptment to do it all myself. Guess it's time to start learning. |
Lgpch
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 12:05 am: |
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As long as you leave your tank intact with it's original paint job (minus small repairs) you should be fine. It's the custom paint jobs that sometimes suffer. I contacted Al at American Sport Bike and he sent me some information on the PPG primers that Buell uses to paint their tanks. We tried this but still had failure with the vapor venting issues. In regards to fabricating your own parts. You are limited to only two factors. Money for tools/materials, and your imagination.... |
Grndskpr
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 11:47 am: |
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How do you keep the empty shells in place, i always wondered about that R |
Lgpch
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 07:02 pm: |
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You counter sink the holes for the screws that hold the pieces of fabricated metal onto the fork brace and fender. The counter sink has to be the same size as the bullet shells. Add adhesive silicone to the counter sinks and lightly tap shells into place. Presto! You have basically an interesting way of covering unsightly screw heads. Fabricating parts is not nearly as hard as correctly laying out the parts to be fabricated. |
Imeazy
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 10:18 pm: |
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Thanks for the advise on the paint Lgpch. I probably will leave it alone for a while due to lack of funds. Same with the parts... I do try to pick up at least one thing a month if I can afford it. Got two kids that tend to drain my bank account. laughs I've been debating whether or not to sell a classic truck I have to fund my buell needs but it's like getting rid of one of the kids. Hard to let go... maybe one day. Thanks again, keep up the good work! |
Ceejay
| Posted on Sunday, May 01, 2005 - 10:50 pm: |
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I used the info that Al sent, I guess it was straight from the factory, and my stuff turned out pretty good, nothing too wild as shown above but cool nonetheless. pretty good info but its only been done for about three weeks so I doubt any bubbling will show up until later. Hope not but at least then I would have an excuse to repaint!! |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 09:36 am: |
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What kind of handlebars are those? Does it hit the tank at full lock? |
Lgpch
| Posted on Monday, May 02, 2005 - 06:52 pm: |
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Those bars are called "Telefix Pro-Fi" Clip-ons. No they don't hit the tank at full lock. I notched out the fly screen, took the blinker mounts off, turned them upside down and switched sides, cut off the extensions and made billet aluminum turn signal mounts. They look pretty trick. They are "one-offs" as well. I tried three other types of bars, my own, Renthal, and Crossroads and none of them have the adjustability that the pro-fi bars do. |
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