| Author | Message | ||
     Mduece |
hey Bluzm2 callin on ya to give me hand i got my parts together and want to get it going again had more problems today, posted under lubrication.. what do ya think? If the crisis center is open let me know, wouldnt be bad to get some help from a fellow bueller. Thanks | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Blake, No problem! When did you want to do it? The Crisis Center is always open, I've got one on the lift right now (my S2). Brad | ||
| Aaomy |
man i love that "The Crisis Center" just sound sweet.. my basement is usually referred to the lab  . the bikes are lowered down into it. dark and dungenesk. i machine a lot of my own parts and spend too much time creating,, if thats possible! and when fired up, we jump around screaming  "its alive , its alive, my creation it lives" to the rattling of duct work. and yes even igor  (the rabbit) is hopping around. dont really know why, just thought i would share! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Aaomy, That funny! I wish I could lay claim to the term but I can't. A guy on the radio here in Minneapolis coined the term a number of years ago. Check out www.garagelogic.com Mine is truly the neighborhood Mens Crisis Center. Whenever I working on something (all the time really), there's usually one of the neighbors hanging out shooting the breeze. I stock 3 different kinds of beer to keep everyone happy. They usually restock their own, I just keep it cold... Brad | ||
| Kahuna |
I've spent quite a bit of time going through the archives, and I haven't been able to come up with a straight answer. I know this issue has been beaten to death, but what is the final word on what oil to use in the primary? Mobil 1 75w90 Gear Oil? I've been using Mobil 1 15w50 engine oil. Thanks very much! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Both are good, gear oil is better. The gear oil has additives that work better for gearboxes, but that they can't use in motor oil because if it burned up it would leave nasty deposits in the combustion chamber. | ||
| Reepicheep |
oh yeah, and one more thing somebody else pointed out, gear oils are formulated to drop dirt to the bottom of the crankcase. Motoroils are formulated to keep the gunk suspended to make it to the filter. Don't know if it is true, but it sounds good. | ||
| Kahuna |
Thanks Reep! I Couldn't find Mobil 1 gear oil up here in the great white north, so I picked up Castrol Syntec 75w90 gear oil. I'm sure that'll do as well... | ||
| Mikej |
And yet the "new" Harley synthetic is usable for both the engine and transmission. Go figure. Oil and Lube, so different, yet HD-Syn works in both.  | ||
| Bomber |
kinda makes you wonder if snakes are involved in the manufacture of the product ;-} | ||
| Mikej |
Just the tails, the venom in the heads destroys main seals and stators.  | ||
| Road_thing |
Yeah, and the fangs get hung up in the oil pump... | ||
| Djkaplan |
You know, just for kicks, I'm going to try some 20w50 Mobil in my primary and see if I can tell any difference between that and the 75w90 Mobil I'm using now. I really haven't been able to discern any difference between Harley Transport and Mobil 75w90 at all in my M2. I wonder if 20w50 would make a difference? | ||
| Orngm2 |
you guys ever find little pieces of plastic in your oil filter? i have a perf-form oil filter/cooler on my m2. it has a replacable filter element. last week i changed the oil and looked at the filter to see what kinda crap is floating around inside my bike and i found what looks like small bits of white, translucent plastic in the filter media. could my primary tensioner cracking to bits do this? how could plastic from the primary make it to the oil filter? if any of you have any ideas let me know. ride safe, orngm2 | ||
| Kahuna |
I've been having issues finding neutral from first gear, but *not* from second!? It's almost impossible to get neutral from first without missing and hitting second. I've read here that it could be my lube level in the primary. accroding to the picture below, the diaphragm teeth are submerged in oil. is that the correct level? or is the oil suppose to only touch the teeth? i'm aware that the required volume is 28oz, but i want to know if i currently have the correct level... thanks for your help!  | ||
| Captainkirk |
OrngM2 Almost certainly the primary shoe. It's not that big of a deal to change and it's only around fifteen bucks plus gasket and a quart of Sport Trans. | ||
| Dck996 |
The white, translucent "plastic" is bits of the sealer used between the crankcase halves during assembly. It tends to be squeezed out here and there, and eventually break off. The rolling element bearings in the crankshaft assembly roll right through this stuff. If you look around the outside of the crankcase seam, you are likely to find sealer squeezed out somewhere, and you can compare things to confirm that it really is sealer. The primary/transmission area is sealed off from the engine itself. Any pieces of the primary shoe should stay in the primary, with no opportunity to get to the engine oil filter. | ||
| Bomber |
Kahuna -- I doubt seriously is the lube level being either at the tip or root of the gear will make a difference in your shifting into neutral -- I'd check (in this order) for proper clutch adjustment, primary chain adjustment, and, if both of those items are to spec, play with the shift linkage -- one or all of those should help you (they did me, last time I mis-adjusted both the clutch AND the primary chain -- note to self, stop being in a hurry) | ||
| Orngm2 |
thats what i thought, the pieces are too soft to be from the primary shoe... thanx dck996 for the help. | ||
| Drfuyutsuki |
Quick question: Is the measurement for the primary chain tension taken on center, on the exterior points or the interior points? | ||
| Sportyeric |
Your choice, Doctor. Bottom to bottom, top to top, or centre to centre. I find it easiest to see the bottom edge. | ||
| Drfuyutsuki |
Cool, so essentially on centers. Thanks for the help Eric. Josh | ||
| Ceejay |
Anyone ever have a problem with 75W90 and blowing it out the primary vent? Since I switched I am getting a lot more spooge coming out of the vent. Also seem to have a lot more pressure in the oil bag-different topic I know but it seems that when I get on it hard-over 5,000 r's I notice more spooge from the primary vent and a bit of leaking from the bag. Doesn't happen when I ride more "sane" any ideas? | ||
| Reepicheep |
CeeJay... it is probably unrelated to the mobil 1, and is your crank seal. It will keep getting worse, and quickly get dangerous. Not a terrible job to replace it, the special tool helps, but is not necessary. Don't seat it too deep though, if it touches the bearings behind it, it will cut through and need replacing in another 4000 miles or so. | ||
| Road_thing |
I think Reep nailed it. rt | ||
| Ceejay |
Ohh boy that sounds fun! Special tool? Is this something I could do in a day and a service manual? If I'm thinking right, pull the primary cover, front sprocket, stator, and then how do I get that seal out? Is this all explained in the good book that is quickly becoming well worn, only two years old and it looks to be fifty! Thanks for all the help! | ||
| Reepicheep |
It is more or less what you describe. The worst part is getting the old seal out of there without chewing up the aluminum it sits in. The seal has a metal outer ring, and the case aluminum was soft as butter. I rushed the job and got frustrated, and started prying, and left more marks in there then I would have prefered. No functional impact, but it made me look like a hack. good needle nose pliars will probably help, as would patience. For seating the new one, you just want to keep it off the bearing, otherwise it will get chewed up. The special tool makes this easy, but I did the same thing with an old broken tinkertoy piece. The manual describes it pretty well. One gotcha is to make sure you clean the heck out of the crank nut and crank threads, and use the right locktite. I torqued to spec, and used the right locktite, and did clean, but must not have cleaned enough, as that nut came loose. | ||
| Reepicheep |
One more thought... when you are in there, you are very close to the stator, so if you have any doubts about it, or you have 25k+ miles on the bike, replacing it would not be totally foolish. | ||
| Ceejay |
Good call on the stator, I have about 20,000 so I might just do that while I'm there. Since you moved on to the CityX, (I read somewhere that you used to have an M2 also) have you had any/as many problems? Thanks again for all the info. Looks like Thursday and friday night are filled up for me this week! | ||
| Road_thing |
Ceejay: Upgrade your primary chain tensioner if it's not already the new style. Cheap insurance. Also, check the torque on the two bolts that hold the starter on. Replace the gasket if they're loose. I've seen several starters loosen up, which lets primary fluid weep out onto the top of the cases. Not a real big deal, but messy. It's a two minute job, as long as you're already in there. rt |
