| Author | Message | ||
     Prs |
After stopping for a short break yesterday, I tried to start my M2. I heard a funny clink and it did not start. When I tried to get it in neutral, I couldn't budge the shifter. I got it started and went down the road and could NOT shift. Finally I got pissed and stomped down on the shifter and then I could shift. The whole way home I kept getting stuck, sometimes in 2nd, 3rd or 4th. Anyway, I read the knowledge vault and saw it may be 1) Primary chain tension, 2)Shifter Detent plate (clip?) or 3)shift shaft adjustment. Does anyone know which is more likely? Thanks. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Its definately not #1, Very slight chance it could be #3, almost definately #2. To fix you are going to need some big sockets like 1 1/8in and a very strong breaker bar. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Dan, Hate to disagree but it could be #1. A old style tensioner can puke a chunk of the plastic slider that can mess with the shifting. Those little plastic chunks can go anywhere in there. Regardless, when you have it apart, replace the tensioner with the new style. If it's not broke now, it will be... Brad | ||
| Captainkirk |
I'm with Bluz on this one Dan. If the tensioner spring breaks and you're thowing chunks around, it's anybody's guess. That being said, I'll wager it's shift drum pins backing out, as they are wont to do, which cracks the nasty little c-clip that holds the detent plate on which allows the roller to drop behind the detent plate, etc. Sad, familiar story. Buy the sockets, make a primary lock tool and pull the primary cover. Change your primary tensioner (it will be cracked, trust me). Let me know when you get into the guts if you get stuck.I'll walk you through it. | ||
| Phatkidwit1eye |
I vote for #2. Sounds exactly like what happened to me | ||
| Buelliedan |
You don't need to invest money in a primary lock tool. Just take the nylon shoe from your old tensioner and jamb it into the teeth of one of the gears. works wonderful and costs nothing. I almost can guarantee you it's not #1 because once you get moving you can shift pretty easily even with a broken tensioner. His problem sounds exactly like what 2 of my bikes have done. Exactly! Both times they were the detent pins. | ||
| Al_lighton |
dan, I've done the wedging in the teeth thing, yea, it works, kinda. But I just recently spent the $18.95 for the locking bar and ya know, it works better. Given the criticality of torquing those nuts correctly, I think the locking bar was a good investment. It's not like if you own a Buell (or several) that you aren't likely to have to use it more than once. That detent plate retention method sucks. The Baker smooth shift kit with the screw on detent plate is worth it for that feature alone. I'm not sure why HD didn't switch to a similar method long ago. SOmeone on the bard here tried to modify their shift drum to do it and found it impossible to drill and tap. Too bad, because if I could, I'd do that to mine in a heartbeat. Al | ||
| Prs |
Thanks everyone. Kirk, based on what I heard when I tried to start her, it sounded as if something broke off and got tossed around. As I rode home it would shift fine one time and then lock up the next. I never knew what to expect. I'll take a look and see what I find. Thanks again. | ||
| Mikej |
Baker smooth shift kit????? | ||
| Phatkidwit1eye |
The Baker Kit is well worth the money. It's a whole new shift drum plus instead of having a crappy lil clip holding on your detent plate, you actually have a bolt that goes thru the plate into the drum. | ||
| Al_lighton |
 See here Aaron did a review for Battle2win. I have one in my S1W, and if/when I go into the tranny of my S3, it'll get one too. The shift fork "ramps" are slightly re-contoured, the detent plate has the best features of both the old and the new HD plate, and the thing is held on by a BOLT instead of the cheeseball clip. The overall effect is smoother, so it makes it possible to use a lighter detent spring as a result. Not quite suzuki snick snick, but nicer than stock sporty by a fair amount. Al (Message edited by al_lighton on April 13, 2005) | ||
| Koz5150 |
Al, What does it take to instal that? BTW, The polished rear brake fluid holder thingy looks great on the bike... Thanks | ||
| Captainkirk |
Paul, I almost didn't GET home! I couldn't get to first to save my life, and second gear only by stomping on the thing. Buells DO NOT like to come off a stoplight from second. Fortunately, I was less than 5 miles from home when it crapped out (after a fifty mile ride!!!) As for the locking bar, I agree with Al about the torquing. But 1/8" aluminum stock is dirt cheap and easy to machine with simple hand tools (read:files) and the bonus is you have the tool next time around. Of course, if you want to spend the fifteen bucks you could be spending on the new primary tensioner, that's your biz!  | ||
| Al_lighton |
Well, you yank the tranny, then you pull the three cotter pins that hold the groove follower pins in place, use a magnet to pull the groove follower pins, pull the shift drum out of the three shift forks and trap door plate, then reverse. Once the tranny is yanked, the drum change out is about 15 minutes or so. No gears need to come of the tranny shafts. Aaron hit the nail on the head. It lowers the shift force by a little. A good thing to do would be to trade force for displacement after the installation by modifying the external shift lever ratios. THAT would be nice. Al |
