| Author |
Message |
    
Norrisperformance
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2005 - 06:57 pm: | 
|
Rageonthedl
Your idea is very close to the way the
system I will be testing works. I have been
sworn to secrecy. I知 in the dark about the
details anyway. I知 very anxious to learn
how it works, and to see if it works .
I don稚 think it was designed specifically
for the Buells. I知 going to ask some more
questions Monday. I will be the first person
to get one of these puppies outside of the
company. And will be using it, in addition
too the nitrous kit from GodSpeed.
The total package will be able to deliver
about 50hp or so. But I値l only be spraying
about 20hp to be safe on the motor.
I may increase it later.
It looks like, after talking to you guys
I値l be shooting it directly in the intake
and bypass the air temp sensor.
If all this works, Tatsu should be able
to hang with his riding buddies in the
straights. |
Norrisperformance
| | Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2005 - 07:48 pm: |
|
Fullpower
Can you tell me more about the propane/nitrous
system?? |
Starter
| | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 12:57 am: |
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Ahhhh direct injection propane. Works very well on haul trucks as well. |
Jerseyguy
| | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 10:08 am: |
|
Mike, I'm skeptical, but very interested. I've been told that in carburated systems they shoot extra gas with the nitrous. I've also been told that if you don't put extra gas in somehow in a FI engine it will self destruct instantly. I doubt if the Buell closed loop system could react quickly enough & I'm fairly certain that the extra fuel required would be well beyond the range of the race ECM.
But then there are a lot of guys who know way more than me on the topic. |
Brupska
| | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 10:34 am: |
|
Being around drag racing cars. I know you don't want nitrous unless you are at wide open throttle. So the idea of haveing a switch that is put on the throttle is a good idea. Start with the lowest setting first and check the A/F ratio and work up like some people have said. Also make sure if the engine dies after using nitrous that you pull the plug wires or something to make sure all of the nitrous is out of the engine and intake system or it will blow your airbox back in your face. If you turn on the nitrous and the bike coughs through the intake you will get a face full of plastic to. I know my uncle used nitrous on his small block chevy and he cranked it with out getting all of the gas out of the intake and it blew the intake manifold and the hood off of his vette. Nitrous can be very dangerous but fun. Be careful with it. |
Norrisperformance
| | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 10:59 am: |
|
Holy ••••• BAT MAN
That did'nt sound good.
Maybe a good idea to have a way to shut
the ignition off so you can give her a spin
before you start it up. |
Jeremyh
| | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 06:08 pm: |
|
well lets see here, 50 shot kit is the largest i would put on a car without increasing fuel injection system so 20 shot kit on a bike seems a bit steep unless you plan to invest in the fuel system also. Also what would be the point of using Nitrous unless you were WO on the throttle anyway. |
Craigster
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 12:17 pm: |
|
Maybe a good idea to have a way to shut
the ignition off so you can give her a spin
before you start it up.
I think you'd be re-inventing the wheel here. No need to do anything other than NEVER hit the nitrous button with out the engine running. If you do that for some reason, pull the plug wires and spin her over. Otherwise it is a mute point.
The power gain (20hp) itself won't be crazy or uncontrolable. It will just feel like you've down shifted and whacked the throttle open. 3rd gear and up it will be usable. In some cases 2nd gear is usable as well. |
Norrisperformance
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 12:27 pm: |
|
Thanks Craigster
lol
By the way, after listening to you guys
I decided not to test the system I was talking about. I'll let someone else have those problems.
I ordered a complete wet system. |
Brupska
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 01:34 pm: |
|
I don't want to scare anyone away from nitrous. I just want people to know how it works. It doesn't matter if it's a wet system or dry. You can get backfire threw the airbox. You can probably wire a switch and fuse combo where the ignition fuse is. Then you can turn off the spark and crank the gas threw the engine. I would still put a switch in so it only comes on in wide open conditions and a switch to turn on and off the nitrous when you don't want to use it. I know nitrous turns a mild car into a monster. My buddy had it on a V8 Vega and it would run 9.90's on jut the engine. With a 125 hp setup he ran a 8.36. That is in a 1/8th mile drag strip. He also spun 3 main bearings after about 100 lbs of nitrous. So you have to make sure the bottom end is fresh and strong before you use it. I would not use it on a engine with a lot of miles. Have fun with it. Oh don't try to inhale the nitrous you get at a speed shop it has a chemical that can make you sick. I know some one who had a leak in his lines he ran through his car. Not a good thing to have. LOL |
1badxb
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 04:38 pm: |
|
why not just use a dfo from racetech that widens the pulse width of the injector to go as rich as possibe only when he nitrous is engaged. it should work by running the power to the dfo of the arming or activation switch for the nitrous. also all you have to do to kill spark is make a constant ground for the coil that will more or less allow a much easier ground then an electrode this can be done with the horn just like an ignition cut out for easier shifting |
Diablobrian
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 04:39 pm: |
|
they add sulfur to the nitrous you get at the speed shop. Truly a nasty experience if you try to inhale it. |
Craigster
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 08:40 pm: |
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I bet you'll be happier with the wet system. No R&D on your end.
Run it and love it.
Good luck and enjoy! |
