| Author | Message | ||
     Lake_bueller |
Anybody here running the older Pro Series Rear Sets on an S1 or S1W?????? I'm having the worst time with the brakes. First, I could get them to bleed properly. I finally got pressure and thought everything was cool. Took the bike for a nice ride yesterday. After about 1 hour, the brakes locked on me after leaving a stoplight. I was able to get the bleeder open to relieve the pressure. But now I'm back to square one. Anybody ever hear of this problem? Any cures? And yes....I'M PISSED rant off} | ||
| Bomber |
sounds like ya still got air or water in em, mennis -- pain in the rear, bleeding, but you'd be surprised at how much air/water can hide in there | ||
| Henrik |
You may need to unbolt the master cylinder and the caliber to be able to tilt it in order to get air/water bled out. Besides that, I stand by my syringe method. Locking brakes could be a symptom of the master cylinder not releasing pressure. On the front master there is a little bleed hole, where you can watch the fluid "swell" when you squeeze and release the lever. Don't know where you'd find that pressure release hole on the rear master. But something clogging that hole would be my guess. Henrik | ||
| Road_thing |
Lake, it could also be a piece of grit or rust jamming one of the pistons in its bore. If thorough bleeding doesn't solve the problem, you may have to take 'em apart and clean 'em. I'd recommend doing the wheel cylinder first if it comes to that, it's more likely to have some kind of booger in it since it's more exposed than the master. rt | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sounds like the adjusting rod is too long,did the same thing on one of my S-2's.If you set it before getting bled properly,when the fluid heats up it applies pressure.Try backing off a bit and bleeding again.New fluid??Old stuff may have more miosture and swell more. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
I agree with FMJ, sounds like your pedal may be jamming and holding pressure, as the disk spins against the pad it heats up causing the fluid to expand, applying more pressure, building up more heat until it locks. You might also have a piston that is seizing in the caliper. If you had air in the line it wouldn't lock up as the air compresses making it take up less space ergo applying less pressure. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
OK, ME NEXT, Just put rear sets on the S1 along with a steel braided line. I CAN'T GET ANY PRESSURE AT ALL. I NEED HELP!!!!!! Conventional bleeding is being performed. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Newfie... I finally bought a MityVac to get mine bleed. You can't use the "needle"-type adaptor on the bleeder valve. There is another adaptor that covers the valve for a better seal. Once I figured the problem was arising from a lack of pressure in the MityVac, it was a piece of cake getting the brakes bled. I hope that helps!!! BTW....my S1W is the most UNCONFORTABLE S.O.B now that I'm running the Crossroads race bars and rear sets. Here's a picture of the seating postion from Deal's Gap:  | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Where did you mount the rear brake fluid holder? I must be missing a part. Another problem is that when I started to take it apart the chain had rubbed the supply line to the master cylinder and when I took it apart started to leak. I would have had a problem before too long. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I'll try to take some pictures tonight or tomorrow. | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I just took a piece of mild flat steel bar, cut it to the right lenght and used that. I was gonna glue a piece of thin wood molding over it just for shock factor when people looked at it. Thanks Guys for the tips and advice, especially Henrik and Dennis. | ||
| Henrik |
Newfie - don't mention it. Glad you got it working. Wood paneling on a Buell eh??  Henrik |
