| Author | Message | ||
     Pammy |
The bank angle sensor causes the ECM to shut off the fuel and ign systems when the disc in the sensor travels beyond 55 degrees or if the sensor goes bad. Sometimes it will run for a few minutes then die. It is a cheap diagnoses and fix. | ||
| Kumasan50 |
this maybe a dumb question; but does a 99 x1 have a bank angle switch? i can't seem to find it? | ||
| Pammy |
yes it does. I believe it is bolted to the right side of the frame at the tailpiece | ||
| Court |
>>>I believe it is bolted to the right side of the frame at the tailpiece That is an accurate statement.  | ||
| Kumasan50 |
Okay, I found it. The BAS on my carbon kevlar x1 is mounted right under the ECM. Is there an easy way to bypass this switch? Also, I supplied power directly to the brn/yel and grey wires to the pump, but it didn't come on. Maybe I have more than one problem here. Tomorrow I will swap tanks (pumps) again and try more testing. I would like to be able to get it running well enough to bring it home. You guys are great, thanks again for all the help! Ted | ||
| Oldog |
Ken: I take it from your post at 1:34 am that the pump did not start when you applied power to it? directly from say the battery? If it did not and you have straight wired it bad pump is likely the BAS can be fritzed too Before declaring it dead try swapping your tank to the other bike see if you have pumpage if so look else where (B.A.S.) may be, as suggested there may be fuse or wiring issues, If it helps and every one here will agree when I say hunting a bug take it one thing at a time the next thing the flashing light sounds like NO Code Your description of the lights operation sounds a lot like no code the Bas fail code is 4 4 the code is triggered when the Bas signal voltage is out of range 0.6 and 1.1 volts in the 01 FSM the procedure is spelled out for testing if you can borrow a tank perhaps you can mooch a bas, (after confirming that the Fuel pump is indeed dead ) We all want to help get you on the road again hang in  | ||
| Oldog |
Ted: Just so I can get this straight 1.have power on the pump connection with ignition cycling from off to on (about 4 sec) but no pump run 2. when you changed the tank out and cycled the switch no pump have you put your tank on the other bike and done this test? its been a real long day for me I realy want to help you if I can I am on east coast time say good bye to Ken (SOrry) Ted <GrIn> time to head for the porch ....  | ||
| 99x1 |
This is probably a dumb question: Have you tried swapping the battery? The Engine lamp flashing without displaying codes usual happens when the battery voltage drops too low (like when your charging system goes, and you are hoping to make it home, but then your lamp starts flashing and your tach starts to jump, it starts to misfire, and then dies completely, and then your fellow (non-FI) Bueller swaps batteries with you and ...) Your fuel pump could be defective and pulling the voltage down enough to cause the ECM problem? The ECM doesn't actually check for fuel pressure, so if you disconnect the pump - does the Engine lamp go out (or at least flash a code - I don't think it does though). Disconnect as much as you can on the 12v ignition circuit, speedo sensor, bas, ignition coil and you should see codes flash. The fuel injectors are also powered constantly by the +12 and the ECM closes the ground connection to fire them - the wires can chafe across the top of the rocker boxes, or by the throttle cables (esp on the '99s - IIRC they changed the routing after). If you are putting power direct to the pump and it's not running - either the pump is bad , or your battery is toast and is dropping low under load? Good Luck! | ||
| Kumasan50 |
i might have had a bad connection when i tried it the first time, but now the pump runs when i supply direct power. i swapped the ignition relay with the starter relay and everything seems fine, except now it won't start. i'm guessing the ignition relay went bad. one more puzzling thing to me; with the relays swapped, i get a code 33 (fuel pump?). i swapped to the tank with the fuel pump i know is good and i still get a code 33. while i'm waiting for the dealer to call me back about a new relay, i'm wondering if i have a short somewhere that burnt out the ignition relay. is there a way to jump the starter relay just so that i could ride it home? | ||
| 99x1 |
"is there a way to jump the starter relay just so that i could ride it home?" Remove the relay and pry the plastic cover off it to expose the contacts and coil. (the contacts may be burnt as seems to have been causing a voltage drop to the ignition power?). If cleaning it doesn't work - install the relay with the relay cover off, ensure the bike is in neutral, and then push in on the movable contact to firmly touch the stationary contact, which should start the bike (the start button normally supplies power to the relay coil to pull the contact in), and then ride off into the sunset. Not sure why you would get a code 33. | ||
| Kumasan50 |
THANK YOU! It seems to be running fine. I'll bring it home when my wife gets off work. I ordered a new relay. I just hope that was the only problem. I really appreciate everones' input. Now excuse me while I ride off into the sunset....... | ||
| Oldog |
Ted: 3-3 is the fuel pump! Good to hear that the pump is not toast, John(99x1)is on track too if there is a known chafing problem AND if you can't start it after replacing the relay. Take a few to look over the harness with the tank off. it could be a ground or an open see the FSM I had the head light quit at night while out, ground pulled in to 2 try this it may help narrow whats wrong after you replace the relay and check the fuse. 1. with the ignition on what is the voltage? it should be at least 12v I checked mine 12.28v at the battery if low swap the battery as John has suggested I just had a key switch fail I caught it early as the tail light started to come and go wires reaching 195f see drag specialties or customchrome dealers (American Sport Bike) list keyed alike $150.00, after mkt $31.00 you have to solder 2. I would unplug the speedo sensor, start? y/n if n then re connect 3. borrow the bas from the other x1 swap it start Y/n N re connect it won't run with out the bas 4. remove the plugs and check for spark remember to ground the un used lead, coil feed back into the ECM could be LEATHAL to it 5. just for grins bypass the side stand switch I think John would agree with me if you have problems, trying to bugger the wiring to get home may make it worse John you're one heck of a good tech! I hope TED can run this down with out having to preform bypass surgery | ||
| Al_lighton |
Just so happens I ordered one of the drag Specialties 3 wire switches the other day, got it here now, and it's a whopping $23.95, comes with two keys, looks like a stock switch except that it has three ring terminals on the end instead of the connector. A little bit of splicing, you'll be in business. Not on the website yet, but here if you need it. Al | ||
| Pammy |
Al, you are right on top of things... Are you going to be at Daytona? You could sell parts out of your trenchcoat like Tat used to. "PSSSST...hey buddy, I've got just whatchoo are looking for..." What is Ol' Tat up to these days? Didn't mean to jack the thread for my own entertainment. But sometimes I can be so selfish. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Must've been ESP, sensing someone would need a switch days before it actually happened...Yea, that's it. Actually someone called asking about aftermarket switches, wasn't sure, grabbed the 2004 fatbook and it fell open right to the page the switch was on. Figured it was fate, so I ordered one for evaluation right then. Seems decent enough, haven't road tested it. But jeez, for $24, you could go thru 6 of them for the cost of a single Buell switch, which, BTW, doesn't appear to be of stellar quality to begin with. I highly recommend that everyone pot the back of their stock switch, WHILE IT IS WORKING, with a nice big blob of epoxy, it will likely prevent a wire breakage or pull out from the switch, which is very common. Alas, no Daytona or Indy for me this year...so much to do, so little time. Florida is SOO far away from San Diego.. But I'll be at Springfast, Fontana, Sears Point, Homecoming, the American Sport Bike BBQ (Duh!), Oktoberfast, and possibly something in colorado. I don't bring much stuff with me though, just catalogs and T shirts. Mostly, I go to ride and rub elbows with the Buellers, I figure if they need anything, they've got our phone number. And on motorcycle events, it's not like most folks have room to carry any parts. I don't look good in a trenchcoat anyway  Tat (and Maria, and Mel) is running a Matco tool truck in the same area. He seems to be doing well at it, but I think the hours are just as brutal or more so than running A.S.B. The family (including Mel's almost 1 year old baby, cute as her mom) is doing fine. Al (Message edited by al_lighton on February 24, 2005) | ||
| Hogluvr |
OK, dumb question time. Can anyone tell me how to remove the intake manifold on an older Buell ('98 S1) ?? I need to replace the intake seals, the manual says to loosen the two bolts primary side (where the slotted end of the flange is), then remove the two bolts gear side. I cannot see any way to remove these two bolts, they are hitting up against the manifold and seem impossible to remove. I'm sitting here scratching my head, trying to figure out how they put the darned thing on at the factory in the first place!?! Can anyone help me???  | ||
| Shazam |
you need to cut an allen wrench so the short leg is about a half of an inch long. You can use a die grinder or dremel with a cut-off wheel someone somewhere might sell a stubby version (Message edited by shazam on February 27, 2005) | ||
| Firemanjim |
What Shazam said,and hope you have gas tank off so you can actually see what you are doing. | ||
| Aaomy |
another quick trick that some times works is to use the hex screw driver bits,(short single ended ones) they are 1/4" hex , and a 1/4" box end wrench,. just use the back of the bit like the hex key. and like fireman jim says, get that gas tank out of the way. hope this helps | ||
| Pammy |
Al, of you see Tat, tell him I said Hi and congratulations GRANDPA! Yikes, time flies. Thanks for the update. Yost makes an S shaped allen wrench(AL probably has them) that make it a bit easier to get at those allens. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks guys, I had already cut down a couple of allen wrenches & managed to get everything loose (learned that trick a while ago putting headers on my car), the problem I have is that I don't see how the bolts will clear the intake manifold. They are loose enough to turn by hand, but the heads bind up against the manifold. Not sure how they're supposed to back out with the manifold in the way  BTW, is there any valid reason to remove the fuel tank? It seems like everything can be done with the tank in place... hogluvr | ||
| Shazam |
sounds like your cylinders pulled together when they tightened the manifold last.....hahahahaha just kidding! Sorry I misunderstood your first post. The slots in the mounting flange should be under the screws you are finding difficult to remove.... If I am understanding your last post, they are not oriented that way. I'm not sure how someone got it together that way unless they did it while putting the heads on. I think you will have to rotate the manifold to get them out or worse loosen the heads. Normally you would remove the two screws you have good access to, and loosen the two screws that are hard to get to and the whole thing slides out/up. let us know if this is the case | ||
| Hogluvr |
Shazam, Yeah, I'm really scratching my head on this one, wouldn't be TOO surprised if they DID pull the cylinders together!!  I looked at the manifold on my LowRider, it is positioned the same way: slotted end of flanges are on left (shifter) side, end w/holes are on brake side. SO, the bolts I am having difficulty removing are under the holes (right side). There is NO clearance between the bolt heads and the manifold. On the slotted (left) side, there is a TON of clearance between the manifold and the bolt heads. This is the side I DON'T need to remove the bolts from (figures)... Which side are you referring to when you talk about having easy access to? Is it possible to rotate the manifold? This seems to be the only way I can possibly get any clearance to get the bolts out. If it IS possible, I can't imagine it is able to be moved all that much, but it might be enough to get the job done. I really DON'T want to loosen up the heads, with my luck that will open up a whole new can of worms  | ||
| Firemanjim |
Once you loosen the bolts the manifold will rotate--it's just riding on the rubber intake seals but it may take a little lubing and persuasion to rotate.Manifold is really in 3 parts with a couple of rubber seals against the manifold and head,the only thing holding it together is the mounting bolts.And considering how easy it is to take off the gas tank--what,maybe a hose clamp and a bolt along with vent hose--you would be way better off with it out of the way. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks Firemanjim, I will try putting a little muscle into it & seeing if I can get it to rotate enough to squeak the bolts out. Is there supposed to be a lot of play once the bolts are loosened? I haven't been out to the garage yet tonight, but I gave it a little tug yesterday and it didn't seem to want to move at all... | ||
| Sportyeric |
I'm almost afraid to ask but... you do have the carb off, right? | ||
| Hogluvr |
LOL, Yeah Sportyeric, carb is off, that was a piece of cake. I'm gonna rejet it while it's off (never messed with it since putting on the V&H can), although it looks like someone has been in it before me (goobered up screws, plug is missing for mixture screw). Had a 195 main & 42 slow jet, will go to 190 main & 45 jet according to mods above. She always did seem to run a tad lean. (Yeah, before you ask, I've taken these things apart before, I won't be posting anything like "how do the screws come out"  ...  Called the HD dealer today & they said they don't sell jets individually!! Anyone have any good sources for jets?? Probably won't get back to the manifold until the weekend, wifey gets a little PO'd when I spend all my free time in the garage (kids seem to miss me too "Who's that strange man sitting down to eat with us, Mommy?" . Will keep you guys posted on progress (if I have any!) Thanks, everyone, for your input and help... hogluvr | ||
| Hogluvr |
OK, found the jets I needed at yet ANOTHER HD dealership (10 bucks for 2 jets is a tad better than 75 bucks for a kit!!) One more question: was reading the archives today until vision started blurring (or was that the beer), see a lot of talk about changing the needle also, to 1988 1200 Sporty needle. Is this also a necessary step to smoothing out the carb? Inquiring minds REALLY want to know... hogluvr | ||
| Hogluvr |
OK, STILL NO LUCK!! I've got the carb done, anxious to get this puppy back together. Please see post in intake section...  | ||
| Reepicheep |
The stock needle in the CV carbs is a good one. | ||
| Firemanjim |
So can you rotate the manifold yet--Ijust took mine off 2 days ago,used short allen and yes the slots go to the clutch side.Allens come right out when manifold is rotated out of way. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks Reepicheep, I decided to go ahead and re-use the stock needle, carb is back together and ready to go... Firemanjim, I took out the two bolts on the clutch side (where the flange is slotted), worked it back and forth, manifold will still only move a hair, not nearly enough to get the other two bolts out. How much is this thing supposed to rotate? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Manifold is composed of 3 separate pieces,center section and 2 flanges that bolts go through.The center section will rotate at least 90-180 degrees with all 4 bolts loosened--do not have to be out.But after being together for a long time the rubber intake seals may be hardened and resist this movement.Lube it up and don't be gentle. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks Firemanjim, hard to believe it is supposed to move that much, with as little movement as I'm getting. And believe me, I've been ANYTHING but gentle, almost knocked the bike of the lift trying to wiggle it back & forth. I will try lubing the seals with something and keep at it. Wish me luck!! | ||
| Hogluvr |
One other thing: did you rotate the manifold UP or DOWN to get it out of the way of the allen bolts?? | ||
| Bandm |
Try this, with all 4 flange bolts finger tight, insert a hammer handle, the bigger the better, into the carb flange hole. While pulling up lightly on the handle near the head, smack the head upward with the palm of your other hand. The shock should free the seals, and the manifold should rotate freely. If this doesn't work flip the hammer around and beat it to pieces.  Good luck. Mark (Message edited by bandm on March 06, 2005) | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks Firemanjim, Mark, got it off, between lubing it up with WD40, a hammer handle and some muscle grease, she finally loosened up enough to work the bolts out. It was ugly, but at least it's off!! P.S. Mark, about the last part of your advice: I like my bike too much to take a hammer to it, I was seriously thinking about beating MYSELF in the head with the hammer to put myself out of my misery!  | ||
| Jerzydevil |
Just wondering if anyone knows where I can get an air/fuel mixture screw for a 2000 P3. My local dealer in NJ says it is an unserviceable part, and the only way to get one is to buy a new carb. for $400.00. I cant afford that, but i don't know what other carb I can use one from. Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give. | ||
| Shotgun |
Jerzy, there was a really nice aftermarket replacement, with a knurled knob so you could adjust without a screw driver anytime. I have one on my CV40 but can't remember who carries them. I'll bet it's in the archives though. | ||
| Mikej |
Jerzy, Your dealer person is an airhead. parts more parts even more parts You have options beyond buying a whole new carb. If your dealership employee does not know this then take him in an application to McDonalds or TacoBell next time you go there, then avoid those places because he'll probably tell you that you can't get an order of fries without buying a burger and a soda. And if I'm wrong, well then I've already got the employment apps, just haven't turned them in yet since they're still sharpening their axes here.  | ||
| Bomber |
Jerzee -- like shotgun and Mike said -- I too am running the needle with the knurled knob on it, and it works great -- much easier to adjust (although asbestos gloves would be recommended ;-} ) your dealer was right, in that the part is not available from HD independantly -- the level of service you can expect from the parts guys is highly dependant on the time of day (crowds with chrome in their hot little mitts or not), the distance of the new hottie in motorclothes from the parts desk, and the amount of beer consumed by the parts guy -- if ya KNOW something is available in the aftermarket, try to snag the most experienced-looking grizzsled old vet behind the counter, and tell him it's for a sportie -- this can sometimes yeild a more accurate response | ||
| Henrik |
Here is some Keihin CV info along with the mention of the knurled knob. However the link doesn't work, so go here instead Their brass fuel inlet looks nice too. Good luck Henrik | ||
| Jerzydevil |
Awesome, I really appreciate all the info guys, now hopefully I can ride soon again. Thanks Again, Shawn | ||
| Italialaw |
Will a forcewinder intake for a sportster or big twin work with a 98 S3? I've been told that it will but I'll need a "breather kit/set-up." Could someone answer my question and educate me on the "breather kit/set-up?" Thanks! | ||
| Djkaplan |
The engine vents crankcase pressure through the hollow mounting bolts that secure the carb to the bike. The factory routes the gases back into the intake tract. You can get a Forcewinder that retains the closed system, but most of us go to an open system that routes the mixture of air, blowby gases, condensation, and oil mist (collectively referred to as "spooge" ) to a separate cannister (referred to as a "catch can" ) that collects the spooge and vents the gases to the atmosphere. There are dyno tests posted in the Knowledge Vault that show a very slight increase in horsepower with this simple modification. Here is a link to more info that you could possibly want to know about breathers and catch-cans. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/6804.html?1108158451 You can spend a lot of money, or make one for almost free. Either way, it's a good thing to do. | ||
| Ara |
After all this talk about installing new intake manifold seals, I'm wondering what symptoms to watch for that tell you that the seals are leaking. A diagnostic list of symptoms would be quite helpful to all, I'm sure. My 1997 S3 will sort of hickup on occasion. Since it does this so irregularly, I'm thinking that I've got trash in the fuel petcock, carb inlet, carb float bowl, etc. that moves around and occasionally blocks fuel flow. On the other hand, the bike idles way high when cold and on choke and it didn't use to do that. Since the intake seals are apparently so difficult to replace, I'm reluctant to do that unless what I'm experiencing is a clear sign of failure. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Ara, Mine started "coughing" more and more, took longer and longer to warm up, and finally last spring, would not idle at all unless the choke was out. Haven't tested her out yet since replacing the seals (there's still snow out here in Ohio), but will post results when the weather finally warms up. It's really not that difficult to do, I just always seem to have some weird problem when it comes to the simple stuff (figures!!)... | ||
| Bezbefootball |
Does anyone have detailed pics of the grind job on the forcewinder bowl vent. I am getting an 00' M2 and I need to grind it out. I would like to see how deep and wide it should look. I have seen Aaron's page with the comparison, (http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/11192.html#POST142662) but that pic is of 2 different bowls. Please email me @ joeflygare@hotmail.com Thanks | ||
| Sandblast |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I decided that my M2 needed to run a little richer, and, American Sport Bike parts in hand set about changing the slow jet and drilling the plug/ turning the idle screw. When I was wiggleing the carb to get it free from the intake manifold, I noticed that the manifold itself was moving also. Bad voodoo says Al, so I pulled it (the manifold) too to replace the seals just in case. I took a couple pictures so that newer people like me can see what everyone is talking about when they say intake seals- I know I was curious before starting this project. This is from an 01 Cyclone bought new 15 months ago with almost 7,000 miles on her.    | ||
| Johnnyb |
I hope someone can help. I have a 99 x-1 that will leak gasoline if it sit for over a couple days. It will be hard to start and leak quite a bit of gasoline out the back injector. Once the bike is warmed up, it will run and start fine even the next day or two or three. It seems the problem occurs after @ a week or more. Any input would surely be appreciated. |
