| Author | Message | ||
     Nitsebes  |
Thanks everyone! Vast amount of knowledge here. Bennett | ||
| Smoke |
what is the new torque procedure? i usually finger tight everything and incrementally tighten evenly from there. tim | ||
| Court |
There is a procedure for applying oil to the mating surfacing, while avoiding any oil on the threads and clamping surface. I am not sure of the current procedure but if someone doesn't post it for you today, I'll confirm what I have is current and get it to you. I'll defer to Aaron, FMJH and the R&D staff but this is one procedure you do not want to deviate from. Ask and know before you go. Court | ||
| Hoser  |
I'd like to see ALL the service bulletins available to view , there are several , not yet stored in the KV. Recall #810 is the topic being discused here , I'll check into what the bulletin number is . I would rather look at the bulletin first , than type the procedure here , it's gotta be done right or bad stuff can happen | ||
| Hoser |
I just checked again in the KV , not finding bulletin # B018 , however I have a printed copy ( a low quality fax , not worth scanning and posting here ). As far as being current , B018 was issued May 1999 , I'm not aware of a more current procedure. Some important highlights from that bulletin ............... * Position floor jack under engine , under front shock mount to support engine. * Remove and discard isolator locknut and remove bolt , two washers and D washer. * Clean residual loctite from threads in engine with a suitable nonflammable solvent and dry with compressed air. * Apply Loctite threadlocker 271 (red) to the threads of NEW isolator mount bolts. * Apply a thin film of clean HD 20w50 engine oil to both sides of of NEW thick washers and to bottom of bolt heads. Excercise caution to avoid mixing oil on washers with loctite on the bolts. * Position new front isolator mount and secure with two New bolts with thick washers. Tighten bolts to 60 ft/lbs initially and then loosen each bolt one full turn. Tighten bolts again to 60 ft/lbs. * Make sure flat on D washer remains oriented to the front of motorcycle while tightening bolt. * Position washer between front isolator mount and isolator. Install bolt ( here's where I deviate from the instructions and put a light coating of never sieze on the shank of the bolt, NOT on the threads , to facilitate future service / removal ),install washer , D washer and NEW locknut. * Making sure flat on D washer stays oriented to the front of bike ( I use a prybar with a square shank , and an assistant to help hold the wrench and prybar ) , tighten bolt to 100 ft/lbs Use care when torquing the bolt that passes through the isolator and bracket , access is difficult without the correct tools , use towels or rags to protect the front fender !! | ||
| Doughnut  |
I know its not the right area, but, I go before the Greenfield Police & Fire commission on 12-15 for a position as a police officer. I need all the good vibes I can get, keep your fingers crossed for me, (please  ). Then I can afford to keep my S2 looking good. | ||
| Impulse_101  |
D-nut. I guess you'll never get that job once I send them that pic of you on Halloween! But seriously, Good Luck. I've been there and the only thing you have to worry about is your own demenor. JT (Message edited by Impulse_101 on December 13, 2004) | ||
| Rex |
Keep the S-2.....REX | ||
| Doughnut |
My 10,000 mile check up is coming due soon. What does it all involve and what should I expect to pay? | ||
| Firemanjim  |
Change all fluids,adjust belt,grease steering head bearings,change fork fluid,new plugs(10r not 6r)grease swingarm bearings,put in K&N air filter.Most of this you can do your self and save a ton. It takes less than 10 minutes to take most of the body off your bike --seat,tank cover,tail section,and gas tank.Simple to do with a phillips screw driver and a 1/2" wrench.Get familiar with your bike and you will see how easy it is. | ||
| Mikej  |
The 10K check will cost you $700-$900 at the shop. That money will buy a fair amount of tools, and you've got a few months before prime riding season begins again. | ||
| Doughnut |
One reason I am tempted to take it in, (besides my own mechanical ineptitude), is that I am convinced that I have one or more small leaks. I see a little leak around the front mounting bracket, there is a build up of fluid, (I assume oil?), behind the rear cylinder on top of the transmission. Something drips onto my rear shock almost dead center, slightly to the left side. I never seem to be low on fluids so I guess the leaks are not too bad, but I rather not leak at all. Will have to find the time to track down the problem. Would love to save the money, as I think I'll need new tires before the end of next season. | ||
| Mikej |
A suggestion, don't know how well it will fly though. Comments have been made in the past to do a service demo at the dealership. Maybe you could offer your bike up for a 10k service and have the club meeting in the service bay after hours as the work is done. Not sure how long the actual service work should take in shop hours, but it should be doable within a club meeting timeframe, or at least a good portion of it. One wrench doing the work, a second mechanic standing by giving play-by-play and answering questions. You'd still have to pay the bill, but seeing it done would be educationally great for everyone in attendance I think. Anyway, something to think about. | ||
| Doughnut |
If I got to go the dealer route, I would consider it a bonus to watch and learn. will have to think about / talk to Hal's about that. Just worry about them finding out how bad the bike is.  | ||
| Mikej |
Pretty sure you just have "normal" oil seepage, probably nothing to worry about. | ||
| Doughnut |
The white frame and rims were soo damn cool when the bike was at the dealer. Who would have guessed I could not roll the bike 20 feet without it all turning grey. I'm pretty sure you're right about the seepage, but I still don't like it. I'm paranoid about all those little things. Took me a while to realize that all the noises my Buell made were suppose to be there. Only noise that bothers me now is some "ticking".  | ||
| Rex  |
Agree....I love the white frame, white wheels, etc...REX | ||
| Firemanjim |
Check on front of engine for oil pressure sender,they go bad and leak,rear sounds like a rocker box gasket,good excuse to put on XB rocker boxes and breathers,shock leak could be dripping from oil lines at oil pump,check them all for tightness,Ive had loose ones.Clean bike really good and take for a spirited ride about 1/2 hour on a dry day.Come back and get real cozy with the bike,lay down and get under everything with good lighting and look for seeps. | ||
| Phat_j  |
mikej.... did you really say 700-900 for a 10k??? wow..... my dealer gets 4??.00 and i thought that was crazy high..... flat rate is usualy around 4-5 hours for a 10k and to do it properly takes me about 3-3.5 so thats the time that will be invested watching..... if they allow you. my thought on the leak on top of the trans is the starter gasket.... i'd be really suprised if the rocker boxes are just finaly leaking on an s2 with 10k, my experience is they leak way before that...not saying it cant be the case.... well then again, he did say it looked to be leaking by the front mounting bracket (motor mount?) so yeah rocker boxes are probaly leaking... lol | ||
| Mikej |
Yep, that's the price I remember reading on their general service rates board. Maybe someone heading there can confirm the price. | ||
| Doughnut |
Front rocker cover gasket leaks so I was wondering what are the benefits to going to the xb rocker covers and what would I expect in way of cost? Is the upgrade worth it? (Message edited by Doughnut on February 05, 2005) | ||
| 1313  |
Doughnut, Fellow badwebber José did the conversion on his S3. His installation is detailed on the DC BRAG website. See link: http://www.dcbrag.org/Rocker.htm It includes part numbers and prices. Basically the benefits are fewer potential leak paths and considerably less splooging from the breathers. I plan on doing this to my S2, but just can't stop myself from riding the darn thing long enough to do it. Feedback I have gotten from multiple sources recommend it. 1313 | ||
| Sportyeric  |
But the lower rockerbox gasket, which is the one that generally fails, would still be the same, wouldn't it? And the updated (metal) gasket has pretty good reliability, I think. Its just the old paper ones that were problematic. I've never had the intermediate gaskets leak even though I reuse them constantly. Less puking would be a good thing, but the only real advantage other than the bling factor. | ||
| Firemanjim |
No bling,but it sure cleans up the side of the bike with no breather hoses or fittings on the side.They are all tucked up nice and neat under the tank.And less parts moving aound and 2 less gaskets to buy,not to mention how much less spooge.Do it!! | ||
| Bluzm2  |
I second and third Jim's suggestion. I have the XB covers on my S2 and my M2. Well worth it to get rid of the side breather and reduce spooge. Brad | ||
| Erik2 |
Late last summer, I returned to Buell ownership after selling my ’98 Cyclone a couple of years ago. This time around I am on a 1995 S2. As has been said many times before, it really is a magical ride. I am eagerly looking forward to this riding season. There are a couple of things I need help on. 1. A couple of the rubber plugs are missing from the spokes on my Marchesinis. Are these available and what is the part number? 2. Will the Indicator Light Bezel P/N 74614-01Y fit the S2? 3. I would like to replace my windscreen with one having a darker tint. Any recommendations? 4. Does anyone have a sales brochure from 1995 they would like to sell or trade? I have a 1996 MY brochure to trade. Thanks to all for your help. EG | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
S2! S2! S2! S2! S2! S2!....  TONY 95' S2 96' S2 | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
4531465067 <------ EBAY # IS THIS WHAT YOU NEED? T | ||
| Firemanjim |
Suppsedly those plugs can be had at better hardware stores.What's wrong with your indicator light bezel?Need one? | ||
| Erik2 |
Guys, Yes, that is the bezel I am referring to. My indicator lamp assembly is fine. I just thought the chrome bezel would complement the rest of the instruments nicely, but have heard conflicting reports on whether it will work on an S2. Thanks, EG |
