| Author | Message | ||
     Waldo38 |
Help, I was changing exhaust pipe today. One turn to many.Was not even that tight.Anyway broke the stud on the exhaust intake.I have enough stud to latch a visegrips on.Will this work to remove.So I can put a new stud or bolt in? | ||
| Davefl  |
That may work.. If not you could weld a nut on the stud to remove it.. If that does not work I have the tool from Jim's to drill it out that I would be willing to let you borrow. | ||
| Waldo38 |
Would it help to heat up the stud with a torch and then try to remove? | ||
| Philip |
you want to heat the head around the stud to expand it. | ||
| Stubby |
When my exhaust stud broke I ended up getting it lasered out or something. Was expensive. Regards, Stubb | ||
| Peter  |
If you can get a visegrip on, it should remove it. Use a new stud, not a bolt. | ||
| Firemanjim  |
Those 1999 X-1's had studs made of glass it seems.Seen a ton of them snap for no apparent reason.Hell,the whole exhaust system just disintegrated on the One Ferris was on.O2 sensor fell out,header pipe was spiderwebbed with cracks,it was unbelievable. | ||
| Waldo38 |
How long is that stud.I have put heat to it and lubricated and it still won't budge. Started to drill but don't want to go to far.Thought I could drill out old stud. | ||
| 1313  |
Waldo38- I'm assuming that your X1 has not had the improved Y-shaped front muffler support fitted to it. That is a critical part for increased durability of the '99-'02 style exhaust system. FMJ- Have you heard of similar failures of bieks with the updated front muffler support? You probably won't...but thought I would ask 1313 | ||
| Aaron |
Waldo ... we have to deal with this all the time. The stud is an interference fit thread inside the head. So the day they put it on, it was tight in there. Then it went through a bazillion heat cycles and it's more or less bonded to the head. People try to extract them all the time, and most of the time, they end up doing more harm than good. I've seen a bunch of'em with broken-off easy outs in'em, as well as melted aluminum around the hole from trying to weld something on there. I'm not saying it can't be done (getting it to unscrew somehow), I'm just saying the odds are against you and you're more likely to make things worse. There is only one good way to fix this that I've found. Take up Davefl on his offer and use that tool. It works. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Brankin,I tend to ignore them new high tech bikes---(joke) but never heard one way or another. | ||
| Reepicheep  |
This happened to me. Listen to Aaron. If you are not going to listen to Aaron, you could just drill out the old bolt manually and carefully, going slightly larger and larger in bits until you can pick out the old bolt parts and clean up the threads. I did this, and it worked, but it took a lot of time and stress. You could probably heli-coil the thing as well if necessary, if you drilled the "wrong" hole. But the tool makes it REALLY easy. | ||
| Waldo38 |
Okay,Update since the last time I got on the site.I have broken off the East Out. Now what?What kind of drill bit do I use now? Those easy outs you can't drill in to them.I'm not having a good time. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hate to say we told you so..... Get diamond tipped dremel bits, you will probably need at *least* three. The easy out is also brittle steel, to you might be able to break it as well as drill it, but beware of just forcing it further down the hole, making it harder to get at with the dremel tool. Maybe use the dremel to cut a slot in the easy out, then pound sideways to break parts of it off to get more room to make more of a slot. Relax, resign yourself to the fact that it may take the better part of the day, and take your time. It will be fine. | ||
| Waldo38 |
Okay,Is there anyone in Phoenix that can help me with this?Went to the Buell dealer in Snottsdale.Told me 4 hours take the head off and then will need to be laser. Has to be a less expensive way.How bout a stud welded on! | ||
| Waldo38 |
What will drill through hardened steel? Need to drill out the easy out. | ||
| Aaron |
You can get carbide drill bits. They run $15 - $20 each. They'll do it, but it'll probably take more than one, you'll break one or two. Best use the little drill fixture. | ||
| Reepicheep |
As I previously posted, diamond tipped dremel bits will do it. It will just take a lot of them and a long time. Or the carbide drill bits, I have not tried them so I don't know if they are better or worse then the dremel. Aaron has forgotten more about this kind of stuff then I will ever know, so take his advice before you take mine. The only reason for the dremel bits is I *know* they will have them at your local harbor freight, or home center store. | ||
| Waldo38 |
Went to my ACE Hardware and Home Depot could not find the Diamond tipped Dremal bits.The had a diamond bit but said on the back not for drilling.Plus it was really small.I bought the Cobalt bits. Did not even make a dent.Where do you get the carbide bits? Why can't I just have a stud weld on. Won't this work. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Those were probably the right ones. They are not for drilling, and they are really small, but you will be drilling anyway, which is why you will need a handfull of them (at least three). They will cut the easy out, but not for long, at which point you throw it away and grab the next one. Get one with as much surface area as possible that will get in the hole where your easy out sits. When it happened to me, the easy out tip was buried in the stud, so I needed the small bits. Harbor freight, or maybe a big lots, has a box of them for about what just one cost me at Home Depot. You are using them only to get the easy out tip out. Use a combination of cutting and chipping (the easy outs are very brittle), but be careful you don't push the tip further down the hole. Or find the carbide drill bits Aaron is talking about. Once you get the easy out tip out, you can then use normal drill bits to drill the stud. You can try welding a stud on, but that is a steel stud in an aluminum head, and I don't know how much length you have to work with. And those studs are in there insanely tight (as Aaron described earlier). When this happened to me, I felt like a disaster, but the reality was I had it fixed at the cost of just 3 or 4 of those bits, and a wasted Saturday (late into the night). My somewhat panic'd posts are in the archive here somewhere from something like 4 years ago, and Aaron gave me the same good advice then that he is giving you now. | ||
| Aaron |
Well Bill, I've never tried the diamond tipped jobs so we're even  Waldo, I stand by what I said before. That stud is really stuck in there. It's essentially become one with the head. If my experience and the experience of my customers is any indication, attempting to extract it has a much better chance of making things worse than it does of succeeding. And believe it or not, things can get worse. The only reliable way I know of to repair this issue is to drill it using the JIMS tool that Davefl mentioned. It works slick as hell, letting you drill right through the center of the stud without harming the aluminum. I've seen sometimes when you drill with that fixture and you punch right throught the bottom of the stud without even touching the aluminum, leaving a threaded shell screwed into the hole. The tool just works good. The tool works so good in fact that I've been known to cut off a non-broken stud that needed replacing, and drill it out with the tool, rather than double nut and unscrew it. You're now in a position where you're going to have to use expensive drill bits and you'll probably go through a few of them. So the situation is worse than it was. But at least your aluminum is still intact and won't need repair. The JIMS tool uses a 1/4" drill bit. You can buy carbide drill bits at most any tooling supply house. They're also readily available mail order, just do a Google search on "carbide drill bits" and you'll find a bunch of places that sell'em. Or look on E-bay, here's some fancy ones being offered at a screaming price. Best of luck. | ||
| Smoke |
i've smoked a lot of carbide bits over the years on broken easy outs. those little diamond tip bits are the shiznit for eating away the easy out tip. either way you get the easy out out, borrow the drill guide from whomever will lend it to you. if you elongate the whole, it will get expensive. drill slow with the carbide and use a bit lubricant like boelube. good luck. tim | ||
| Davefl |
The tool is still available.. If you want me to send it E-mail me your address and I will ship it to you.. When you are done just ship it back.. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thats a great offer Dave! Very cool. Sounds like a new knowledge vault topic, the badweb lending library. | ||
| Waldo38 |
I wanted to thank everybody for the help.Got the stud out on Sat. and back together on Sunday.What a pain in the a..! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Congrats! Make sure you have the updated part for the front mount, so you don't go through it again! |
