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Message |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 01:51 am: |
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Sometime in the near future, I'll be dropping the engine down on the XB to fix a rocker cover leak. First off has anyone done the "swing down" procedure on the MM? Is it that easy?? Secondly, since I am going to be there anyway, should I go ahead and do the head gaskets? Not sure if anyone has had trouble later down the road and I am trying to prevent it. And... if I decide to go further.. any recommendations as far as a re ring. Would you suggest pistons and rings or complete new jugs and all or? I don't live on the Kings budget, but dont want to end up in poverty over a simple top end refresh either! For those that would ask.. the XB has 23,000 on it and this will be the first time the engine has ever been down! Dave: could use the price on a top end gasket set! Thanks!! Nick |
Crusty
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 05:14 am: |
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"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" Change the rocker box gasket, and don't worry about the rest. If you continue on that path, you'll wind up replacing the crank shaft as a preventative measure. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 08:13 am: |
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Agreed, rocker box gasket failures are a long way away from head gasket failures, just replace the rocker box gaskets. The only preventative measure I would consider is possibly doing both rocker boxes while you have it apart. On the tubers (the proverbial Buell canary in the coal mine), the rear gasket would generally go around 5000 miles, the front at 9000 miles. |
Gschuette
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 10:47 am: |
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Well I don't know a lot about motorcycle heads, just a little. I did want to say that this is probably the best thread title I have seen in quite some time. |
Slaughter
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 01:02 pm: |
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Don't worry about swinging down the motor - it's easy enough that once you do it, you'll not hesitate the second time. You really don't have to disconnect anything except the temp sensor and puke tubes from the airbox bottom cover. You can swing the motor down til the intake horn contacts the inside of the frame - that'll give you enough access for your minor surgery. |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 02:40 pm: |
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Thanks guys for all the info! It seems like it might not be so bad after all! Reep: I have never heard that analogy before.. I liked it! And sorry if the title was a little off....was just in a fickle mood! |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 07:34 pm: |
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Steve: did you pull the drive belt off as well? Thanks, Nick |
Slaughter
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 07:52 pm: |
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What happens is that when you rotate the engine down, it pivots on the rear isolator. I've got the chain conversion but I'll go look at the manual because I believe that you don't have to pull the belt (maybe somebody else knows) I really don't think that there's any problem with the belt. In my mental picture, it would loosen a little as it rotates up off of the idler wheel. Put a jack under your exhaust (if stock) and take it all apart according to the book - and then crank it down a little at a time, making sure nothing is getting mashed. I'll try to remember to look at the book tonight - gotta finish getting the bike back together after the gym. It's race weekend again. |
Buells Rule! (Dyna in disguise)
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 07:57 pm: |
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From what I recall the belt stays in place. |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Wednesday, December 15, 2004 - 08:06 pm: |
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Thanks Greg and Steve. I am not gonna try this till after Christmas, so that gives some time to sort it out. In the mean time, I just have to put up with the occasional drip of oil falling onto the headers. (about once or twice a day) Thanks again, Nick |
Slaughter
| Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 12:09 am: |
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All else failed and I went out to the garage and read the instructions and yes, the belt stays in place. You take off all the plastic bits - scoops in addition to the airbox, puke hoses, air temp sensor. You may want to yank the rubber intake horn but it's really not necessary. I've been lazy and left mine mashed against the frame for a couple days and it did OK. Take off the rear, top and front cross-ties on the end attached to the engine. Take off the V-bracket (3 socket heads), loosen the rear isolator. At this point, get your jack under the motor and take out the front isolator bolt, and the motor is now free to swing down as you lower the jack. If you have a way of clamping the rear wheel, so much better - it is kinda wobbly with just the front end tied down but that's how I do it and it hadn't bit me yet. (Message edited by slaughter on December 16, 2004) |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Thursday, December 16, 2004 - 12:24 am: |
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Wow.. thanks Steve. I appreciate it! I guess I could back it onto the lift if all else fails. I'll let you know how it all turns out. (man do I miss having my own garage!) When are you all coming back to Vegas or Parhump? Nick |
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