| Author | Message | ||
     Fdl3  |
This is an update of a thread entitled "Headlights" that has since been archived here: Headlights Darthane: Sorry, I got lazy. I wired the aux lights in with the high-beam circuit without a relay. Pic 1/5  | ||
| Fdl3 |
Pic 2/5  | ||
| Fdl3 |
Pic 3/5  | ||
| Fdl3 |
Pic 4/5  | ||
| Fdl3 |
Pic 5/5  | ||
| Fdl3 |
In Pic 5/5, my thumb points to the left aux light connector, my index finger points to the right aux light connector, and my middle finger points to where the new wiring connects with the existing high-beam lead. | ||
| Fullpower  |
recommend rewiring the aux loads via relay, to accomodate the load. | ||
| Bomber  |
FD cool setup, nice and clean -- thanks for sharing I'd recoomend you find a way to tie the inboard side of the brackets to the bike, somehow -- vibes will almost certainly crack em the way they stand -- it may take some time, but it's almost a sure thing that'll happen | ||
| Fdl3 |
Fullpower: I may do that in the future. Bomber: Vibes does have me worried. You definitely don't want the L-brackets pointed outboard. Those lights jittered so bad at idle, I thought I might fly away! As they are mounted now, the vibes don't shake them too much, surprisingly - and even then it is mostly at idle. I'll run with them for awhile. | ||
| Hkwan |
Instead of having the top of the bracket mounted outside of the fairing, can it be mounted in the inside? Also, wondering if space would allow for a shorter bracket so that it doesn't extend so far down. The lights can just be mounted against the bottom of the fairing. Lastly, would you have a pic with lights on? Ditto on the relay, though. Maybe you can just run a separate wiring set up along with the relay with a separate switch for the lights? | ||
| Fdl3 |
Hkwan: The top of the bracket can be mounted inside the fairing, but it will require cutting the fairing. The lower fairing edge curves inward too far to allow the bracket to hang without touching the fairing. A shorter bracket would work better. I picked these brackets up at Lowes Home Improvement. Since I don't have any good metal cutting tools, I based the bracket on the size of the holes (smaller brackets have smaller holes). It turns out I had to ream the hole anyway where the blinker stud goes through the bracket. The aux lights came with all the wiring and separate switch needed to hook them up. The original discussion got started on ways to wire aux lights in with the existing wiring so that the existing low-beam/high-beam switch could be used to turn the aux lights on/off. | ||
| Hkwan |
Thank you for the clarification. I've just read through the original thread "Headlight" and noticed couple of folks saying that they have removed this "tab" to make the light a little more efficient (read - brighter). Do you or anyone know what this "tab" is for? Is there any ill effect after the removal? | ||
| Firebolt020283  |
poor bike | ||
| Bomber |
FD -- that's what I'd do too ;-} jest keep an eye on em (yeah, like you weren't gonna do that anyways!) I was going down the road a couple of weeks ago, hit my driving lights, only to find that the sheet steel part of my PIAA lights (the factory part) had let go on one side, and was giving me a very clear view of my front slave cylinder! no biggie, specially since it's, well, winter now, but it woulda cut into valuable riding time if it happened in May | ||
| Fdl3 |
Hkwan: The tab is inside the low-beam headlight lens. It cuts off the top part of the emitted light so that it does not glare in the rear-view mirror of the car in front of you. The low-beam and high-beam are supposedly the same headlight, only the low-beam has the tab. I have replaced both of my R headlights, and the low-beam light is brighter than my high-beam - go figure. Anyway, the tab can be safely removed if so desired. It is just an aluminum plate screwed inside the low-beam housing. To remove: 1. Remove fairing. 2. Unscrew the four(4) screws holding the low-beam headlight to the headlight assembly. 3. Unscrew the four(4) screws holding the headlight lens to the headlight body. 4. Unscrew the one(1) screw to unbolt the tab. | ||
| Hkwan |
Thank you so very much! | ||
| Fdl3 |
Firebolt020283: Now be nice! Just because my bike is dirty, has 20K miles, is blue and not yellow...and yours is...wait, you don't even have one yet!   | ||
| Fdl3 |
Bomber: Bummer on the lights. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
hey i had one but i sold it. now u gonna make me depressed.  i was talking about the roadking looking light set up u got | ||
| Fdl3 |
Firebolt020283: Ouch, that hurts brother! If you think mine is bad, you should see Roc's.  sorry Roc But man what I wouldn't give for a light bar! (Message edited by fdl3 on December 08, 2004) | ||
| Hkwan |
Fdl3, the front fairing is just those couple of bolts plus the turn signals to have it taken off, correct? | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
its cool its ur bike and if they help u see then i guess its good then. No hard feelings but now im still regreting selling my bike (not that i can ride it at the moment anyway) | ||
| Fdl3 |
Hkwan: Yes, two(2) allen-head screws at bottom of windscreen (the bottom two screws in Pic 1/5), both turn signal stalks, and four(4) 10mm nuts holding the mirrors (two(2) nuts for each mirror). (Message edited by fdl3 on December 08, 2004) | ||
| Chainsaw  |
But man what I wouldn't give for a light bar! ...and highway pegs!  | ||
| Hkwan |
Thank you for the instruction. Wow, I've seen people who had the mirrors AND the turn signals out (yup, squids). Doesn't that mean they ONLY had those two little screw holding onto the fairing?! Boy... | ||
| Cataract2 |
So what was the reason for these? | ||
| Fdl3 |
Cataract2: The reason for the extra lights? The light output of both headlights was dangerously poor. I wanted to supplement the stock lighting with extra lights. It turns out the deterioration of the reflective backing of both headlights was the real culprit for the poor lighting. I have since replaced both headlights and the light output is much, much better. But I still liked the idea of having extra lights. Hence the modification. Obviously a functional, rather than stylish, modification! | ||
| Hkwan |
I've read through the original headlight thread and they have mentioned the "90mm Hella headlight" replacement that someone have done. Would anyone know where that 90mm Hella headlight thread is? Thank you in advance. | ||
| Fdl3 |
Hkwan: Haha, I performed a search using your "90mm Hella headlight" quote and found the link right away. Firebolt Headlight Upgrades?. Remember, the Search page is your friend... | ||
| Hkwan |
Haa, haa, thank you very much. I used "Hella Lights" or "Hella" something, always contain Hella in the search and came back with "hella" topics without mentioning of the lights. Thanks once again. | ||
| Fdl3 |
Hkwan: Glad I could help. So, you considering the 90mm Hella upgrade? It is very tempting. I decided myself to try replacing the headlights with new stock ones first. The new headlights are $40 each. I used two high-beam units. Considering the improvement and cost of the new stockers, I think I will stick to stock units. | ||
| Hkwan |
Well, I was seriously considering the Hella upgrade until after I've read what it is involved. Modifying the bracket and cutting the fairing and centering the mounting of the headlights might be a bit more involved than I want. Now, thanks to your instruction, I've taken out the "tab" last night. I took a look at the "reflective" coating in the low beam. What a freaking joke. It is not reflective in any standard. The color is more grey than silver. More like a dark sliver. The coating isn't degraded. It came from the factory that color! Crap! Now, the hi-beam lighting unit must be the same "reflective" color, correct? Wouldn't just taking out the "tab" be the same as using the hi-beam unit? What is the difference between lo-beam with tab out comparing to hi-beam unit? The degrading of that reflective material is a concern for me as well. | ||
| Fdl3 |
Hkwan: I am told that there is no difference between the low-beam light without tab versus the high-beam unit. However, they do have different part numbers. Plus, the service manual shows a beam pattern difference in an illustration where it discusses adjusting the headlights. The low-beam graphic depicts a rectangular beam pattern, whereas the high-beam pattern is circular. It could mean a difference in the lenses (or it could just be for illustration purposes). Others have said it before me: whatever you do, DO NOT try to "clean" the reflective coating. You will only rub off the coating and make it even worse! | ||
| Blublak  |
Just a thought on the extra lights.. Check your local laws before wiring aux. lights in with your hi beam. In Va at least, you're not allowed to have both on at the same time, your looking at a ticket and a possible 'full' inspection of your bike vs. State code. I know I'm not exactly in line with that body of regs and would hate to have to 'return to stock' my machine before getting it out of 'stir'.. so to speak. Later, |
