Author |
Message |
Barkandbite
| Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2004 - 09:55 pm: |
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One of my very first posts in BWB was to comment on the issue I noticed once I got my bike home. It seems that one of the fine technicians had managed to completely pull out the nutsert that holds the seat retainer screw into the frame. I didn't notice until I got home that there was no screw on that side let alone anywhere to insert one! It was a saga getting the dealer to replace the nutsert. Tonight after some suspension adjustments, somehow (cross thread, overtightened, bad part, ?) the brass insert on the other side is now spinning with the captive screw inserted into it...I can't get it in or out any further! This is the worst part about working on this bike. I'm going to have to dremel the top of the screw off, get the seat out and then find a way to get the nutsert and the screw's shank out without buckling the hole in the frame. This really pisses me off. Anyone else had this happen or have a better alternative for securing the seat since I pull it off at least twice a month for tweaks? Chris |
M1combat
| Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2004 - 10:22 pm: |
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Put the screw in correctly the first time . |
Barkandbite
| Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2004 - 10:30 pm: |
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That's what she said...
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Starter
| Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2004 - 11:17 pm: |
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It seems most manufacturers have decided a key and lock setup is a little easier on both the corners of the seat and the servicing bod. My Suzuki had that same setup and I nearly cried when I got the XB home to discover the key only worked the pillion pad. I have seen some of those duz' connector used on a website some time ago. Other wise a small tack weld solves the nutsert spinning. |
Barkandbite
| Posted on Thursday, November 25, 2004 - 11:57 pm: |
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I'm going to go a different route -- either a camlock like a dzus fastener OR (more than likely) I am going to replace the nutsert and do the following: 1) Insert a stud fitted into the nutsert that has a hole drilled through the end 2) Cap the end with some elastomer dip so as not to puncture/scratch the seat 3) The seat tab will fit over the stud 4) Insert a clevis pin in the hole to hold the seat down. That way this will not happen again. I'll post pics when complete. Chris |
Midknyte
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 12:03 am: |
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We went around on this a few months ago. I think the best solution someone came up with were headless screws (or something) where a hole had been drilled to allow a cotter pin/clip to hold the seat down. Sorta like the bolts & pins you see holding down a ricer's hood. Someone's gotta have pictures... (post em up eh? ) |
Barkandbite
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 01:30 am: |
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Midknyte: What you are referencing is exactly what I'm talking about...a stud with a hole in it that you put a clevis/cotter pin through. Just like hood pins on race/rice cars. You'll see pics soon enough. Chris |
Ortegakid
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 03:12 am: |
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Chris, That's exactly what we used to do on our race gsxr's for the tank you were always having to lift to adjust carbs, made some studs the correct size, installed, drilled hole,installed r-clip,safety wired clip to frame so's not to lose it all the time, only issue would be vibration, locktite fixed that.I have a nutsert tool of the correct size if'n you want to redo your's,let me know1 |
Aldaytona
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 09:57 am: |
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I've used JB Weld and grey Marine Tex applied with a tooth pick around the nutsert to remove the screw the next day. With the seat and screw removed a dremel tool can remove most of the epoxy so the nutsert can be removed with no damage to the frame. |
Odie
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 10:00 am: |
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Summit Racing sells Dzus fasteners. I'm might use some myself this winter.......Odie |
Xb9er
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 08:57 pm: |
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Here is what I came up with some time ago: XB Quick-Release for Seat Crude work but I don't have the proper tools yet to make it better. Mike. |
Buells Rule! (Dyna in disguise)
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 09:04 pm: |
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It seems most manufacturers have decided a key and lock setup is a little easier on both the corners of the seat and the servicing bod. Actually more & more bikes are going to a similar setup. Its less complcated, saves weight...yes they look for ways to save ounces..& ulimately its cheaper going the bolt on route. Is it a pain? Yep. My R1 has the exact same setup & I put a tiny amount of antiseize on the bolt threads & havent had any problems removing them yet. |
Fullpower
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 09:05 pm: |
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oooh, today i give thanks for xb9er's shorts.damn nice |
Barkandbite
| Posted on Friday, November 26, 2004 - 09:43 pm: |
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Brilliant. Thanks Mike. |
Lonexb
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2004 - 08:39 pm: |
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here is some pics for you. |
Imonabuss
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2004 - 09:27 pm: |
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That looks cool, Lonexb. How are they holding up, and do they rattle or move around at all? |
Lonexb
| Posted on Saturday, November 27, 2004 - 09:42 pm: |
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Imonabus been on my bike for about a year like that,no problems at all.does not rattle or move.if they do just add another washer. the best 75 cents i have spent on the bike,it just takes a few seconds to remove/replace the seat on the bike. |