| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Where can I get and what type of inexpensive inline resister can I use to make the LED signals work correctly on a friends bike - the Kellermans didn't need one but these USA made he choose are either all on or off - too much juice definately - could someone help please - the project turned out tight, but the blinkers are not 100% yet and I want to sucessfully finish this project. Thank you in advance for your responses! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.whaccessories.com/Turn%20Signals.htm Think that resistor in the middle of the page will work - so far that looks like my best bet. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Reepicheep |
A resistor is a resistor. Are you trying to dim the LED's, or trying to get enough current flowing to get the blinker delay to work correctly? | ||
| Ezblast |
trying to get the blinker delay to work correctly. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Reepicheep |
That would require a resistor in parallel, not in series. Lets try some math... Power(watts) = Volts * Amps Power(watts) = (Volts * Volts) / Resistance (ohms) Assume the turn signal bulb is about 12 watts (that is a guess). That means the blinker (probably a bimetal strip relay) wants about 1 amp. The LED assembly is lucky to be pulling .250 amps (another wild guess). That leaves you wanting to dump the other .750 amps, which is 8 of the 12 amps. Putting the values in the power equation, you have 8 watts = (12*12) / R. Solving for R then gives about 18 ohms, a resistor capable of dissapating 8 watts, which will be wired in series. You can use an ammmeter to get the actual values, but I think all those values are pretty high. Wait... don't do any of that... Now that I think about it, it probably makes more sense to go the other way. I know Radio Shack usually has a good selection of half watt resistors. For a 14 volt system, that means you can add .5=(14*14)/X ohms. Or, 392 ohms. So get half watt resistors of at least 400 ohms, and keep adding them in parallel to your LED signal until the blink is what you want. If they have 1 watt resistors, you can do 200 ohms. If they have 2 watt resistors, you can do 100 ohms. Sorry for the complicated description... | ||
| Ezblast |
Huh? - I want to just put one in line to each light at most - light is 7watts/21 required - what do I ask for and do they carry it - I know none of their resistors are over 10 watts at Radio shack - already asked, and a sugested was 20W 8ohm resistor. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Koz5150 |
When I ordered my brakelight/builting turn signal set up frm heavycycles Joe (very cool guy)threw in a resistor for me. I am sure he could sell you one. It is a single unit that will fix the problem for both the left and right side. www.heavycycles.com I believe American Sport Bike carries his stuff. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Inline resistors will draw less current, not more. You have to put the resistors parallel to the load (LED) to draw more current. Each resistor has to dissipate a fixed amount of power, but you can add multiple ones in parallel to "share the load". A 190 ohm resistor hooked across the LED bulb contacts would draw 1 watt. You need to bleed off 14 watts. So any of the following combinations would work. They probably won't have these exact ohm values in stock, so get whatever is the next closest size that is higher, you don't need to be exact. 28 resistors, rated for .5 watt, 380 ohms. 14 resistors, rated for 1 watt, 190 ohms. 7 resistors, rated for 2 watts, 95 ohms. 3 resistors, rated for 5 watts, 38 ohms. And note that 15 watts is the power of a small soldering iron, so you will have some non-trivial warmth to deal with. Think about this when you place it. I believe they also sell modified blinker delay units for this sort of thing, and I thought the Buells use a standard automotive part for this sort of thing. Not sure how they did it with just one resistor, unless they also have a couple diodes (which would be easy enough, and not a bad idea). | ||
| Ezblast |
What would that standard automotive part be - parts I can get! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Reepicheep |
Find the blinker assembly on your blast, pull the thing, and walk into a good auto parts store, and ask for an electronic replacement part (not mechanical). Not sure where the thing sits, or what or sure it is called, I can check my XB manual when I get home (which may or may not help). | ||
| Ezblast |
Cool - I know where it is. TNX GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Newblaster |
So, just changing out the blinker delay unit for a different one will fix the problem? | ||
| Ezblast |
The Blast flasher is electronic - do you mean to switch it out with one of less wattage? - am I missing something - do the auto's flasher have a variable built in resistor with just a max wattage? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| 99x1 |
The regulations on turn signals / flashers are that there has to be an indication of a shorted or open lamp. The flasher is suppose to flash at a doubled rate to indicate a short (too much power) or flash slow or not at all to indicate an open. A flasher meant for trailer use (flashes normal with and without the trailer being connected) might work (I'm guessing). There is very specific laws about distance between lamps and flash rates - most LED conversions I see are illegal... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hrrmph. Sorry about the bad advice then. If your local auto parts store can't scare up a part that will work with the lower wattage, sounds like it is back to the wadd of resistors, all wired in parallel. | ||
| Darthane |
LOL...are bulbs REALLY that bad? I mean, come on, the whole assembly costs like $5. Edit: LOL...apparently the filter didn't like my abbreviation of assembly. (Message edited by darthane on November 16, 2004) | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - in fog they are really that bad - lol - besides I'm sure someone out there has run into this problem before and has an answer and part number or location that would help - as it is - I go to Napa and ask for what - a flasher with low wattage matching or a little over to the LED draw? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
It still sounds like the Kellerman resistor is the way to go! I talked to the auto stores - Napa and Kragen and both only cary a normal and a heavy duty version - so unless you know a part number for an auto that works on our Buells for such an application - I'm out of luck there. Sigh... GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Rick_a |
I purchased an LED control that eliminates the stock blinker altogether. It even has a control for blinking rate. I can't remember who I got it from, though... | ||
| Ezblast |
Think man! The fate of the world resides on your memory! - lol - could use the info! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Reepicheep |
The resistor bundle I described earlier would work fine. Just watch where you mount them so they don't melt any plastic. | ||
| Bomber |
perhaps mounting tghe bundle in the hanldebars, for those frosty mornings? | ||
| Rick_a  |
I'll have to dig through my stuff and find it... | ||
| Ezblast  |
Thank you - that would be great! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Rick_a |
Radiantz Inc. makes the deal. They're called Flasherz. I used the universal model. Web addy is www.radiantz.com. Nevermind all the silly Z's...that flasher is tiny and super cool. I've tried using low load electronic auto flashers...if your signals are all LED they won't work. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks Rick! Great news! I appreciate that no end! GT - KBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
I have a good news hereafter, however, Scott picked up two of those inline resistors made to equalize the load on the Kellerman led units and only 4.50 a piece - worked perfectly - one for each side rear did the trick - now they blink at stock speed - and I saved about 30 bucks or more depending on other products I checked out - so defiately worth it! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
