| Author |
Message |
    
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2004 - 04:42 pm: | 
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Bill, The voice of experience I presume  |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2004 - 05:25 pm: |
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Henrick
I located a seal locally! It's even the new double lip version!
Shoot me an email (in my profile) and I'll shoot you my address.
Brad |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, October 15, 2004 - 12:25 pm: |
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An update for the masses.
As I mentioned above I used a UV oil dye to help locate an oil leak.
Turns out that Mobile 1 75/90 gear lube is slightly UV reactive right out of the bottle.
I poured a small amount on a dark surface and hit it with the UV light.
It glowed slightly although it was a bit less than my primary oil.
So, it looks like I do have a slight crank seal leak.
I've got the new seal but forgot to pick up the crank sleeve in case I need it.
I'll take lots of pictures for the masses!
Brad |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 01:59 pm: |
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OK,
The time has come to put in the new crank seal.
Primary gasket. Check!
1 qt Mobil 1 75/90. Check!
New style crank seal. Check!
New oil seal spacer. Hmmmm, forgot about that one.
Off to the HD parts counter.
Could not find the part number! The 2000 Cyclone parts book doesn't even show the part.
Anyone know it off the top of their head?
Here's a link to a previously posted picture.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=187534#POST 187534
Thanks all!
Brad |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 03:01 pm: |
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Why do you need a new spacer? Is it damaged? |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 03:24 pm: |
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Hoot,
Not sure, just want to have one on hand if it is scored.
I've heard here that some have been scored, others have not.
Just want to be ready when I get it opened up.
Brad |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 04:14 pm: |
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Jose had a post where he described how to get the old one out without hacking up the mating surface. It's butter soft aluminum. I always ended up hacking mine up, but it sealed fine regardless.
Also, don't seat it deeply, it will rub on the balls of the bearing and chew a hole in it (takes about 1500 miles  ).
If you don't have the tool, err on the "not far enough in" side, not the "as deep as it will go" side. Or better yet, measure the depth of the old seal and build a tool to duplicate that (or get the factory tool from Henrik).
Take care not to nick your stator windings while in there. And when you are in that far, you are only about 5 bolts from being able to pull the tranny out for inspection, and inspection of the 5th gear drive assembly. |
Shotgun
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2004 - 08:25 pm: |
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You won't need the spacer. It is heavy and a lot of other stuff would get chewed up before it will. Concur with Reep, set it easy but clean those big bolts up real good, red locktite them and torque the bejeezus out their nuts when you put them back on. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 06:40 am: |
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Thats a good point Shotgun. I did not clean the crankshaft well enough, and even with the loktite and proper torque, and the nut got loose. Rang that stator like a bell with every fire of the cylinders.
The good news is that it will sound like a crank bearing, but isn't. The bad news is that you have to pop off the primary cover again. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 10:58 am: |
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The crank nut is an interference fit. How many times can you reuse it before you need to get a new one? |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 12:01 pm: |
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Thank guys!
I just had the tranny out to replace a couple of shift forks.
When it was out, I packed the 5th gear cavity with syn gear grease.
Might as well do it again while it's apart this time.
Lots of work to do this winter.
Leaky push rod tube, I'm replacing the hold downs with the NRHS billet version. Very nice piece of machining work.
Rear base gasket leak.
Very slight leak on front cylinder head gasket, left front.
The M2 has now got about 25,000 on it.
Decision time I guess. Need to decide what to do when I have it torn down.
Leave it stock? Not much $$ to play with, my daugher is still in college.
Throw in a new set of rings and a quick hone if all is still in spec?
Replace valve seals just to be safe?
Hmmmm, lots to ponder.
Brad |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 12:18 pm: |
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Brad,
A suggestion: before you do any teardown, run a leakdown and compression test on the bike to see how things are. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 12:21 pm: |
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Hoot,
If it's what I think it is then the answer is "once". After it's deformed by the installation it isn't the same as new and doesn't install as designed. Same as with automotive differential yoke nuts, buying a new one is less expensive than potential repairs from reusing a used one. It might be okay, it might not, YMMV. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 02:19 pm: |
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Oops. I've re-used mine at least twice. I cleaned both the nut and the crank threads with carb cleaner and used red locktite though. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 02:56 pm: |
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Don't go by my word, I haven't had to take one of those nuts off my bikes yet, ever. I was just going by what I was told when replacing a yoke on a differential on an old CJ2A Jeep I had years ago. Confirm and verify per your instruction manual, if all is well then it should say so in print, if not then "YMMV" .
Hope all is well. It's always better to discover a potential problem before it becomes a problem.
Which reminds me that I have to find where I put my updated primary chain tensioner and finally get around to putting it into my M2, the one with something over 25K miles on it. 
I'll probably get around to it sometime after December and probably sometime after I get finished with converting an ancient piano into a toolchest. |
Road_thing
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 03:42 pm: |
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Mikej, you oughta have room for lots of tools in that chest!
rt |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 03:47 pm: |
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Mike,
I was thinking the same thing.
Now if I could only remember the link for the tester...
Eastwood maybe?
Brad |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 03:48 pm: |
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That's the plan. I'll post pics whenever I get it finished.
Here's where I got part of the idea from:
http://www.pianoworld.com/pianodesk.htm
http://www.pianoworld.com/pianodesk2.htm |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 03:57 pm: |
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Brad,
Eastwood has lots of stuff, but check to see if you have an AutoZone near you. Supposedly they will loan or rent out specialty tools, and I think a leakdown/compression test kit should be one of the ones they have. I think it was an AutoZone, might be CheckerAuto or one of the other parts houses.
Just a thought.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=2329&itemType=P RODUCT&RS=1&keyword=leakdown
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=5243&itemType=P RODUCT&RS=1&keyword=leakdown |
Hoser
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 09:10 pm: |
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Fellas's :
The engine sprocket nut is Not an "interferance fit" , as stated above . If any of you have observed such a nut ( it will have triangular indentations ) installed on your sprocket shaft , it's the wrong nut !! . Using that nut will result in an incorrect torque reading , a potential. el-busto !! down the road. Don't believe me ?? , please read service bulletin B043 , I'M NOT MAKING THIS UP |
Mikej
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 08:20 am: |
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Thank you Jeff. If B043 isn't on the site here already is there a way you could scan it in and post it? I'm starting my own notebook for the garage at home. |
Hoser
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 09:48 am: |
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Mike:
I have not located that particular bulletin on this site . ping me . |
Mikej
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 10:03 am: |
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"ping" |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 - 12:36 pm: |
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That's good news for me then. I don't remember where I read that it was an interference fit. Perhaps it was the SB that said the WRONG nut is an interference fit. |
Benm2
| | Posted on Monday, November 01, 2004 - 09:21 pm: |
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Just had to leave a trackday early. After the second session, the bike started making a horrendous noise, like someone had poured a cup of ball bearings into the crankcase. I got out a mech's stethescope, and the noise *seemed* to be coming from the primary side. Upon revving the motor, it would make a grind / screech noise that didn't seem to sound like lifters.
So, I pulled the primary cover. The tensioner LOOKED okay, but had a wierd characteristic. The shoe would freely spin around on the top of the tensioner bolt. I tried to tighten it, and broke it.
My question is: Is the top portion of the tensioner (shoe and carrier) supposed to spin freely relative to the bolt itself?
Hoping for yes and an easy repair!
PS Three Buell's at Summit Point trackday, TWO left with mechanicals. |
Benm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 07:06 am: |
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Forget the previous post. Of course it spins, how else would the adjuster work. I guess I'll have to look under the OTHER cover. s**t
Ben |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 08:32 am: |
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If you broke it, it must have been the old style, so it needed to be replaced anyway. Mine never spun freely, you had to work at it.
Before I pull the cam cover, I would probably pop out the tranny and look in there, especially if you still have the primary cover off. Particularly look at the 5th gear drive assembly. (which I won't say it's an easy fix, but it's not a disaster).
Might be worth dropping the oil pump and looking up into the engine at the pinion gear teeth also. Thats only a 20 minute job on top of a normal oil change. You will need a new oil pump gasket and some teflon tape.
Once you pull that cam cover, both rocker boxes need to be pulled (though others claim this is not really necessary) to get the cover back on. Not a terrible job, but time consuming.
Let us know how it goes! |
Benm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 12:21 pm: |
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Yes, it was old style. Looked through the knowledge vault and found a comparitive issue of old versus new. (Maybe that could be put up as the intro page for the Primary Drive section?)
The oil that came out when I dropped the cover was UGLY, it had that blackish-bronzy sheen that kind of moves around, but I just figured it was worn clutch plate.
I did have one nasty at the track, where I downshifted to third for a long sweeper. The bike was making that "I'm not really in gear" noise through the turn, but I was in no position to shift at the time . Sure enough, when I stood the bike up enough to roll it on, it was neutral-ish. Gave it a quick stab to get the gear and kept going. Maybe that did it.
Pop out the tranny? Gee, it sound so simple when you say it like that. sigh.... Guess I'll dive in there. Any more info on the fifth gear assembly? Something I should be looking for?
Thanks for all the tips. Once again, the badweb provides the easiest route to those with the most experience. Thanks. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 01:39 pm: |
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Well, here is what you *don't* want to see...
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=198002#POST 198002
It really is not a bad job pulling the tranny on a tube framer. Once you pull the primary chain with rotor and clutch pack as a unit, you are maybe 6 bolts away from having the tranny on your bench.
All the parts to the tensioner were there when you pulled it, right? White nylon shoe, and metal backplate? Also look to see if the metal spring clip that holds the whatchmacallit bumpy disk thingy onto the shift drum did not pop off, that is pretty common as well.
If the 5th gear assembly is as badly trashed as mine was, you can put the bike on a stand in a quiet place and slowly rotate the rear wheel while in neutral, and you will probably hear scary bearing noises. They are not loud, but they are there. |
Henrik
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2004 - 01:56 pm: |
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whatchmacallit bumpy disk thingy
Detent plate ?? 
Henrik |
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