| Author | Message | ||
     Barkandbite |
So, mine finally showed up today (thanks Dave!) and even though I used the older version (2.69) everything worked flawlessly. Did the TPS Reset tonight for kicks and it all seemed to function perfectly EXCEPT... I could not, even wound all the way out, get the TPS to register all the way to zero ... I got it to 0.4 but that was it. Snapped the throttle many times and wiggled the cables, but that was it. Went through the procedure in the manual and it worked like a charm. Throttle response is better now! Plus my idle is set properly. Just downloaded 2.71-B and I'll try that out tomorrow. Ran all the diag tests too. Very cool tool. Now on to the Techlusion. CHris | ||
| M1combat |
It's ok that the voltage is .4V. Just make sure you follow the procedure to fully close the throttle body and the "reset" tells the ECM that "zero" is .4V (in your case). The service manual mentions an acceptable voltage range before the TPS needs to be replaced. | ||
| Daves |
Glad you like it and it works! Thanks for the business! Dave PS I'll be checking on the Techlusion boxes as soon as I get back to work next week. | ||
| Reepicheep |
So has anyone been able to find anything in this doo-dad that will change or adjust any fuel maps? | ||
| Barkandbite |
It's ok that the voltage is .4V. Just make sure you follow the procedure to fully close the throttle body and the "reset" tells the ECM that "zero" is .4V (in your case). The service manual mentions an acceptable voltage range before the TPS needs to be replaced. It occurs to me then that since it still displays .4 even after the TPS reset stage, that even though this is ZERO to the ECU, I need to add this .4 to (at least) 5.2 (lowest of the acceptable range) to show then a measured 5.6 which, if the display was actually zero, would really show 5.2 Does that make sense to you? Basically, I believe I need to re-do the process before adjusting the idle and take into consideration this offset. Chris | ||
| M1combat |
Well, I've never used one, but doesn't the Digital Technician show the idle setting as 8 degrees open? The "zero" part is the important part (in this case .4V). Once you dial the throttle plate open again, the measurement they give you for that initial setting is only for getting a decent idle upon the first start. After that, you would want to start the bike, make sure it idles alright, then ride it until it's at operating temp and set the idle properly. I don't think the final voltage after the idle adjustment matters, as long as "zero" is correct and it idles properly. | ||
| Barkandbite |
Yes, we're on the same page -- sort of. I'm not referring to the after-idle adjusted number. Let me clarify: If one were able to dial the TPS to absolute zero per the initial step, back it off a couple of more turns (per the manual) and then whack throttle open/closed to assure a zero reading, one would then reset the TPS. This would be an indicated zero and a "referenced" zero for the ECU. Then, one would follow the rest of the instructions and bring the TPS up to 5.2 - 5.6 absolute. Then set the idle. At this point, the TPS will definitely shore more than 5.2-5.6 and I agree this does not matter. What I'm getting at is that the target TPS setting is 5.2-5.6 RELATIVE to whatever your baseline zero was in the reset. In my case, "zero" = 0.4 and thus following the above procedure, if I was aiming at 5.2 for my final pre-idle TPS setting, after I reset/zero the TPS, I'd actually need to ADD 0.4 to 5.2 to arrive at an indicated 5.6 setting since this is actually the 5.2 degrees relative to an offset zero TPS initial read. THEN, I'd set the idle and end up somewhere around the 6* setting...not that it matters what that reads. Does this make better sense? Chris (Message edited by Barkandbite on October 24, 2004) | ||
| Opto |
Barkandbite, I don't own one of these new devices but I think you are mixing voltages (0.4V) and degrees (5.2 - 5.6 degrees). The tps is supplied 5V from the ecm, and the output voltage from the tps according to the FM is 0.5-1.5V at idle and 3.9-4.9V at WOT. The degrees bit is the number of degrees the butterfly is from completely closed. On my XB12 I measured the tps voltages after 6 months, completely closed 0.921V, idle 1.160V and WOT 4.67V. | ||
| Barkandbite |
Opto -- I mistyped. I meant degrees. All references in my posts above should have been in degrees only. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll go edit. Chris | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Wha†'s going on? If you back out the idle all the way, it should register 0 degrees, at which point you rest the TPS. If you cannot get there, something's wrong with the TPS sensor. | ||
| Barkandbite |
DC -- that's why I posed my concern in the first post. Try as I might, I could not get it to hit zero. 0.4 was as good as it would go. HOWEVER, this was with an earlier version of the software, so I'm going to try it again and see if I can't rid myself of this issue. My thoughts were that I should be able to get the TPS to zero absolute so that when I "zero" it via the software, it's truly zeroed. I'll try again. If I can't get it to absolute zero, I'll order a replacement TPS. Thanks, CHris | ||
| Opto |
Bark, It might not matter that it'll only go back to 0.4 degrees, what is important is that the ecm recognizes what voltage from the tps indicates a fully closed butterfly. The ecm only works with voltages not degrees. If you do a tps reset and the bike runs bad then you might have cause for worry. | ||
| Ingemar |
Mine arrived at my friend in Germany friday. I picked it up over the weekend and was able to play with it sunday evening. Couple of questions and problems I have:
 Ingemar. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
1. yes. connect again when changing view; 2. can't. it merely resets it; 3. 3.9 degrees is not set properly - should be somewhere between 5.2-5.6 degrees. 4. no idea what DTC is. 5. It is documented in the Buell manual: A. Back off the idle screw until it reads 0 degrees and continue backing out one or two turns to ensure that the throttle is fully closed; B. Open and snap shut the throttle control grip 2-3 times; C. Reset the TPS - after a short time, it will indicate PASS; D. Turn the idle screw until it reads 5.5 degrees; E. Fully warm up the engine - minimum 132degrees C - you can also tell if the engine is warmed yo by looking at the front/rear spark, which goes to 0 degrees when the temperature reaches 132 degrees C; F. Adjust the idle screw so that the engine runs at 1050-1150rpm; G. Turn the engine off and read the TPS voltage (select it from the channel) and see it falls within 0.5-1.5 volts at the closed throttle and 3.9-4.9 volts at the throttle fully open. You can also check the throttle angle percent to see that it's at 100% (or near there - mine only goes to 99%). You are done. Bottom line, if you hit the reset while the TPS is at 3.9 degrees, I believe your engine will try to run rich and will consume more fuel. Reset it again ASAP. (Message edited by dcmortalcoil on October 25, 2004) | ||
| Ingemar |
WHAAA! I got a new bike. MAN! I can hardly believe this! I did the tps thingy as you described and reset the AFV. Went for a little ride, came back and set the idle, then checked all the voltages and degrees. All looked perfect and well within specs. I then went for a good ride. Man, I can't believe I how crappy this bike was running before. The backfires and hesitation when getting away at a traffic light is GONE. On-off throttle is SMOOTH as a baby's bum It actually runs normal at 2000 rpm without stutter, hesitation or misses, no more need to use the clutch. And best of all, the bike is A LOT faster from low to mid range. It almost scared me the first time I opened it up and let it go till red line. Geesh, I guess ya gotta pay attention when things go bad so gradually you learn to live with it. | ||
| Ingemar |
Oh I forgot: Thanx DC! I didn't realize the procedure from the manual would apply to the technoresearch software. Makes sense though. As you can see I'm one happy dude now! | ||
| Glitch |
That's the best news to date on the new tool! Now I wonder what the nay sayers have to say now. This is the perfect argument for why all tool should be easily had by the vehicle owners. (Message edited by glitch on October 25, 2004) | ||
| Ingemar |
And to think you were ready to give up on 'er too. NO I DIDN'T! Oke oke, but it was only for a week or two! Let's forget about it oke? Please? | ||
| Barkandbite |
Ingemar -- DC got to your answers before I did. "What he said." My bike, despite the issue of the reference voltage, is like a new steed also -- my TPS/idle were set by the dealer at the 1000mile mark when I had the race kit installed. It's been like it was until this week when I did the TPS reset. It now runs like a scalded cat! The midrange/topend pull has increased orders of magnitude! It must really have been improperly set although I really didn't notice it running poorly. Now, on to the Techlusion... CHris | ||
| Sammigs |
" no idea what DTC is" Diagnostic Trouble Code | ||
| Ingemar |
Thank you Sammigs. Now I know what I've cleared  |
