| Author | Message | ||
     Rick_a |
I just put a chain drive on my S1...the tension is set according to what instructors, service manuals, and racers have told me...but the damn chain nips at the battery tray supports if I take it over 110mph. At a standstill it seems impossible this could happen (stretching the chain by hand), but the gouges through the paint say it is so. Anybody else run into this? Any fixes? I may end up putting a guard or another rub block in this area. | ||
| Udholmdk |
hey all Buellers. I am the proud owner of an S1 lightning from 1998. I am planning a Chain drive conversion kit, and have some questions. 1.is the Baker drivetrain kit OK. 2.Will it work better than the belt. 3.does it make more noise 4.does it give more power to the rear wheel. 5.how it a chain performing during long movements up and down by the rear wheel 6.what about maintenance 7.which chain shall I choose hope U can help me with some answers, my problem is that I think a chain drive looks much better on a sportbike, than the bulky belt drive. Thanks a lot udholmdk from Denmark | ||
| Fullpower |
some answers, out of sequence. the chain will transmit more power to the rear wheel. the chain will make more noise. the chain will sling some lubricant. the chain is much stronger and more durable then any belt. for brand i recommend either RK 530 ENP (nickle plated oring) or Tsubaki 530 Sigma ( strongest oring chain available) either of these is easily capable of delivering over 10,000 miles of the worst abuse you can dish out. i have run both on an 89 inch sportster, and i abuse the drivetrain constantly, wheelies, burnouts, lots of gravel roads, and hundreds of miles in the rain. i put a new one on each spring, and have not had a failure. | ||
| Jespo_m2 |
Hi, I also want to put a chain setup on my S1. Should I go with a 520 or 530 chain setup. I'd like to use a wide link o-ring chain. Where can I buy a Buell chain and sprocket kit? Any one have one for sale? Thanks.  | ||
| Al_lighton |
Jeremy, I'd go 530 o-ring if I was you. The 520 setup is for the racers out there that want to minimize chain/sprocket mass and are willing to replace it more often. We carry both at American Sport Bike (Baker), but are currently out of stock on both with a few kits on backorder. We used to assemble the kits from Bartels components, but the Baker kit is turnkey complete and includes a small roller assy that bolts to rear of the swingarm support bracket to keep the chain off the swingarm and support block. It's a cool part, but it does limit the front sprocket size (the 24 tooth is to big a diameter and will hit that roller bracket). Rear sprockets come in 48,50,52,and 54 teeth. Al | ||
| Rick_a |
Someone needs to come up with an idler to take the slack off the bottom run of the chain for tubers. I'm going to home make one here soon. | ||
| Jespo_m2 |
Hi Al, Thank you very much for the info! I have a dilema... My main reason for going to chain is that my belt needs to be replaced and I'd like to avoid the HUGE amount of work in replacing it. However, it is a 97 and it would be a good time to replace bushings and bearings. The bushings are not ripped but they look their age. What would you do? | ||
| Al_lighton |
Well, ME, I LIKE the belt drive. It's quiet, clean, less vibration. I've pulled the swingarm a few times, it's not that hard, just takes a few hours and the right way to hold up the bike. The new isolators are worth putting in, and while you didn't say your mileage, the swingarm bearings probably could use a good lube anyway. So what *I* would do is replace the belt. But there are reasons for mounting a chain (ratio adjustability, failure/wear predictability, ease of replacement, etc). You gotta figure out what's more important to you. Al | ||
| Rick_a |
I bought an LBV chain tensioner and modified it for use on my S1. The difference is incredible...no more chain slop or snatch and much less noise. | ||
| Bluelightning |
Rick, Got any pics of the tensioner on the bike? | ||
| Rick_a |
No sir, I will get some, but it'll be a while. | ||
| Neversellit |
May I Ask, What is an "LBV" Chain Tensioner and where did you buy it? Every Chain Drive Buell Needs this! Thank You for any Info! | ||
| Lee |
Are most the rear sprockets for Buell chain drives aluminum. I know the kit that Al sells at American Sport Bike has an aluminum rear. That scares me a little with my 88 inch...hell I even put steel on my dirtbikes for better wear. Maybe I'm just used to looking at cheap Sunstar alum sprockets that have all the teeth folded over. Do you chain guys have any problems with the aluminum? Does anyone have or run steel? Thanks, Lee | ||
| Neversellit |
Lee, The "Baker" kit I Installed has an Aluminum Rear and Steel Front Sprocket. I think they are both "PBI". 530 DID X Ring Chain. (Not part of the Kit) Seems Very Strong. | ||
| Neversellit |
Rick or Anybody, Rick made reference to an "LBV" Chain Tensioner. Is this a manufacturer? Any Info would be greatly appreciated! | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Lee, researching in the early days, I too was concerned with aluminum sprockets, but as I understand it from the engineers such as those at Morse, Link Belt and such in the industrial area: steel on steel wear at a given rate, aluminum on aluminum wear at a given rate and two different metals such as steel on aluminum wear at a signifigantly lower rate due to something called differenciation (spelling) of metals. Of course any lubricant that reduces friction will aid in this wear ratio. Also most aluminum sprockets are of an alloy that is very strong also. Think about the aircraft world and its use of aluminum. Hope I didn't bore you with what I understand is true. | ||
| Lee |
Bob, Not bored at all...good stuff. I do realize that some of these aluminums have a very high grade and provide good wear. I was just hoping to hear from some that run aluminum sprockets. But my mind is easing a bit...thanks. Lee | ||
| Bomber |
Lee -- I've run aluminum sprokets on my thumper for years (hotrodded SR500, and people think that BUELLS shake!) -- clearly, neither HP nor torque are in the same ballpark, but that scoot's pretty hard on chains the aluminum sprockets do wear, of course, but I can't tell much if any differeance from steel Bob -- data is never boring, I'm thinkin | ||
| Rick_a |
LBV Engineering is the company. I got mine through Custom Chrome...it's meant for a H-D 4-spd FL or FX model. The only parts I used from the kit were the roller and arm. I converted the wound spring included to an extension spring from a hardware store, and mounted it to the engine brace on the lower bolt hole with a longer screw, some spacers and shims. I drilled and tapped a hole in the swingarm mounting block to secure the other side of the spring. So far it's worked great but the spring I used has stretched so I've purchased a stronger one to replace it. | ||
| Rick_a |
Update on the LBV chain tensioner setup. I found that the setup was was not tolerant to stoppies or having the rear suspension land after being airborne in any way. I bent it twice then it broke. I'm getting another and reinforcing it. It used a thin cast arm which wasn't up to any such usage. If that doesn't work I'm working up something different all together. (Message edited by Rick_a on April 20, 2005) | ||
| Djkaplan |
"the chain will transmit more power to the rear wheel" I'm not disputing this, but could you explain why? I know from the machine design courses I took that a chain is more efficient than gears for transferring power, but I've never read anything about a toothed belt. | ||
| Jlewis50 |
Just to throw fuel on the argument I feel a chain only gives you the ability to change final drive ratios easier than a belt. Belt drives can handle great amount of power efficiently and quietly. Chains are noisey and do require lube. Even the O or x ring variety. Also, no one here has a HD or Buell that puts out serious Horse Power. If you put out over 140 hp go to a chain. You ever see what powers the blowers on a Top Fuel racer? a Belt. I have read it takes over 400hp to just power one of the blowers at full boost. They could power it with a chain or gears but choose to power it with a big ole belt. Joe | ||
| Firemanjim |
My bike had a belt on it for 2 years at Bonneville,the last one was with 177+ HP,made it through innumerable dyno runs and 1/2 a dozen runs at speeds up to 177 mph. I only changed to a chain set-up for ease of gearing changes and selection.520 chain with an aluminum rear sprocket--again no problems. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Joe, Last I heard, a top fuel blower takes more power at top end than a NASCAR motor generates. That's well over 800HP!!!! But, it's still a belt! A darn big one but a belt none the less. | ||
| Crusty |
Throw some 1/4" stones at the belt and at a chain. See which one snaps. Belts are quiet, efficient and require very little maintenance; but in the real world, where I do most of my riding, they are too delicate to be trustworthy. They're also a major pain in the aspirin to replace on an M2 or S3. I really hated sitting on the side of I-71 on a Sunday afternoon with a broken belt. | ||
| Edv |
I just replaced the chain and sprockets on my 96 S-1, previously I had 24-54 sprockets and the chain would nick the regulator mount on acceleration so this time around I went with the 23-51 setup and now there is no contact at all other than at rest the chain rests on the alloy mount for the isolaters and I also notice there is less chain hop while accelerating with the smaller sprockets. The first set went from 35,400 miles to 48,600 so I figure that isn`t too bad all in all, if I can get 10.000 miles out of this set I will be happy. Ed | ||
| S1hooligan |
The bike I bought has a chain conversion done already, it is the Baker I believe. Anyways, it at 38,000 the case cracked, guess where it was? Right next to the front sprocket. I am not sure what caused it, but my mechanic says he thinks the conversion is suspect, maybe a bad install, or maybe the chain had broke in the past, wrapped around the front sprocket some how and cracked it, then after I bought it, the cracked piece falls out...ouch...so on my new motor I am not sure if I am gonna put it back on. Any body else had this happen, or heard of it? The motor I bought has the belt pulley on it, but I don't have a rear pulley or belt. | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
There should have been some evidence if the chain caused the failure such as marks on the outside of the case. What I am getting at is the failure could have been just the result of a defective casting. The output shaft area is a high stress area so it would be prone to cracking if the metal around it were defective. Just my two cents for what its worth. There is a 61 tooth Buell rear pulley on eBay. Item #4557986783. It's going for $35 but it will go up. MSRP on a new one is over $125.00 I think. Belts or at least new ones don't show up too often on eBay. New belts are about $135 MSRP too. KK | ||
| Tripp |
on a 99+ cyclone, when switching to the chain drive can you keep the rear inner fender or does it have to go, and how about the lower belt guard and the front sprocket cover?  p.s. i'm still several days away from receipt of the baker chain kit. | ||
| Tripp |
more on the subject http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/128849.html?1122301845 |
