Author |
Message |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:59 am: |
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I am planning to use Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic for my next oil change. Who has used this? Are there any disadvantages? Is it good for all temperatures? |
M1combat
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:05 pm: |
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Use the stuff rated for diesel engines or the stuff specifically made for V-Twins. I'm not sure if you can get either of these in 15/50. I would like to myself as well though as it's gotten just cold enough up here in the Northern AZ mountains that the bike is getting a tad hard to start in the morning. |
Bubabuell
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:32 pm: |
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Use the stuff rated for diesel engines or the stuff specifically made for V-Twins. Why? I've used regular Mobil 1 15-50 with zero problems in two motorcycles - my buell and my motoguzzi. Buying the v-twin only formula doesn't offer anymore protection (especially when your clutch's dry or uses different oil). |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:40 pm: |
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I am running the 15/50 straight from Wal Mart, and the Mobil 1 Gear oil in the Primary. No issues at all so far. Now it doesnt get hear as cold here in the Valley as it may up there in the AZ mts. Nick |
M1combat
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:50 pm: |
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Well, I just say that because the manual recommends it and as I recall had a plausible sounding reason for it. I seem to remember more valve train noise when I used non-V-Twin stuff. I switched back to the M1 V-Twin and it got a little quieter. Not by much and I could be imagineing it, but there it is... |
Vegasbueller
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:57 pm: |
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M1: I also heard the same exact thing about the Mobil 1 V twin oil as far as valve train noise goes. I haven't tested that theory yet, mainly because I couldn't find the oil anywhere. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:58 pm: |
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I think the Mobil 1 15-50 full synthetic car stuff is already diesel rated. |
Wyckedflesh
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 12:58 pm: |
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15/50 should be diesel rated. If I recall from earlier discussion, Xw40 is the highest rated oil with all the special additives that are recommended to stay away from, IE the additives they don't put in the Diesel rated oils. (Message edited by wyckedflesh on October 08, 2004) |
Keith
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 01:13 pm: |
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I have approximately 50,000 miles on Harleys and Buells using Mobil 1 15w-50... It works great! Keith |
T9r
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 02:57 pm: |
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Copy what Keith said... Used non-synthetic 10w40 in the summer and synthetic 15w50 in the winter. The bike had 30k miles on when I sold it and nothing leaked that wasn't suppose to. I've since mended my ways... Synthetic all the time. |
Fullpower
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 03:04 pm: |
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NO |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 04:36 pm: |
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Thanks for the Feedback. After breakin I have always used Mobile 1 SuperSyn 20w50 for V-Twins at $7.99 qt. I see that Mobile 1 SuperSyn 15w50 is under $20 for a 5 qt bottle. I suspected there wasn't much of a difference. I goes to show that If you add the word "motorcycle" to any product, the price instantly doubles. |
Fbolt
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 04:57 pm: |
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I used 15w50 Mobil 1 but just found Vtwin Mobil 1 and used that. No problems with either. |
Gowindward
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 06:38 pm: |
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Read this and decide for yourself. From the data in the report it looks like the V-Twin Mobil 1 is simply marketing / packaging http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 08:33 pm: |
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Gowind, good article. This confirms what some have said here. "...Mobil 1 motorcycle oil: is it worth buying? The viscosity of this bike oil has been changed from Mobil 1's standard 15W-50 to 20W-50. This just happens to be what Harley specs for their bikes. If you smell a marketing ploy here, you may want to trust your nose. The additive package appears the same amongst all the 50 weight Mobil 1 oils..." |
Xb9er
| Posted on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 11:39 pm: |
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Another good oil article, but in two parts because of the lousy 60KB limit. Mike. |
Whodom
| Posted on Saturday, October 09, 2004 - 09:31 am: |
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Note that both of those articles are several years old. Current info on the net says that Mobil changed the composition of the automotive Mobil-1 oils in the interim. The claim is that Mobil-1 is no longer composed completely of "true" synthetics. This change stems from a lawsuit Mobil brought against Castrol and their "Syntec" product several years ago. Mobil sued Castrol claiming that Syntec was made of "group 3" base stocks (which come from petroleum) and therefore was not synthetic. Mobil lost the suit because the court determined that there was no generally accepted technical definition of "synthetic oil". Since the group 3 base stocks are cheaper than the "true synthetic" base Mobil used, they evidently concluded "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em" and Mobil-1 auto oils now also include group 3 base stocks in their composition. OTOH, the Mobil-1 V-twin oil is still 100% true synthetic and therefore there is some justification for a higher price. That said, I still believe Mobil-1 "redcap" 15w-50 is still better than any conventional motorcycle oil out there. The question is how much better do you think your Buell oil needs to be. |
Trenchtractor
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 07:23 am: |
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How to choose the right oil for your Buell... 1. Refer to your user manual. It tells you what SAE Viscosity to use for your specific ambient conditions... It only lists the HD available viscosities and multigrades, but you use it as a guide. Some people living in wildly differing climates would use a different grade for summer to winter... Below 40*F, SAE 10W40 Above 40*F, SAE 20W50 Above 60*F, SAE 50 Above 80*F, SAE 60 NOTE: SAE's 50 and 60 both exhibit poor starting below 50*F. 2. Ensure the oil you purchase meets API C. It'll say it on the bottle. API C is s'posed to have better detergent agents, that we need since our motors are air cooled. That and it says so in your manual, so if you care about you warantee (how the hell is anyone going to know what oils you use??). So, you can use 15W50, infact it would provide better cold starts than a similar quality 20W50... Just make sure it's API C and remember some oils meet both standards and do a great job of it, but NEVER mix a specific API S with an API C since the additives generally aren't compatible unless added during manufacture. |
Tank_bueller
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 09:34 am: |
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Sooooo... I'm a little low on oil, and of course the HD is closed on Sunday, and I'm still in the break-in period, and I want to ride today(not w/low oil). Would it be safe to run to Advanced Auto and pick up some mobil-1 V-twin 20W50(if available) and mix with whatever the dealer put in???? thanks, tank p.s. I know that I should probably just change it right?? (Message edited by tank_bueller on October 10, 2004) |
Brucelee
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 09:34 am: |
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"That said, I still believe Mobil-1 "redcap" 15w-50 is still better than any conventional motorcycle oil out there. The question is how much better do you think your Buell oil needs to be." Redcap came out at or near the top of all of the oils tested in last years Motorcycle mag tests. I have been using since 1000 miles change. Great stuff IMHO. |
Kowpow225
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 11:06 am: |
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Would it be safe to run to Advanced Auto and pick up some mobil-1 V-twin 20W50(if available) and mix with whatever the dealer put in???? I would NOT recommend that. Mixing brands could cause foaming. I've had my rabies shot. |
Tank_bueller
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 11:24 am: |
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Thanks, thats what I was wondering. Guess I'll slide by the stealer tomorrow after work and grab some oil and a filter and "do the right thing". The first recommended change is at 1000mi. but I was planning a change @ 500mi. anyway. I think I will do the tranny as well. thanks again, tank |
Ingemar
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 02:01 pm: |
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This will probably open a can of worms, but I would advice against putting any synth in at this time. It's a good thing to replace the oil during break in, I did it at 100 mls, and again around 400 mls. At 4000 mls I replaced oil for 20w50 full synth (red line). |
Tank_bueller
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 02:17 pm: |
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I completely agree, but I have no idea what was put in at the dealer. If they put synth in, then I dont want to switch back to dino. Shouldnt they have this on record at the dealer?? I will try to find out tomorrow and get more of the same. How's the Red Line doin'for ya? thanks, tank (sorry if I sort-of hijacked the thread, shoulda started new) |
Ingemar
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 03:16 pm: |
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I'm kind of a weirdo on this, so maybe its best if you ignore me (now what kind of advice is that?!?) When I picked up my bike at the dealer I asked them what they put in. IF their answer was synth, I woudn't have left the place. I would have told them to replace it with dino. The first service was done at the dealer (to avoid warranty discussions), and they wanted to put synth in. I almost got into a fight with these guys because I insisted dino was put in. He threatened me to void the warranty ... that was my last visit to that place btw. So, I would seriously consider calling the dealer, see what they put in and replace it with regular 20w50 dino IF they put in synth. Like I said, I'm probably a weirdo and going overboard on this, so just ignore me |
Tank_bueller
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 03:42 pm: |
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Hey, a fellow weirdo, cool! I'll see what they say tomorrow when I stop in, and go from there. I thought about taking it in to have it done, but it's a 35-40 mile ride. Being low on oil, I'm not about to ride it that far.(dont want to hurt my baby) Thanks for the advice!!! tank (since I wont be ridin, almost 4pm here, must be about time for a beer!!) (Message edited by tank_bueller on October 10, 2004) |
Ingemar
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 03:59 pm: |
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How's the Red Line doin'for ya? Missed that ... Red Line is doing excellent. The engine is getting a little noisier but I can really notice the difference on the engine temperature. I really need to flog that bike for a long time if I want the fan to come on while riding. Even on stop and go traffic the fan doesn't come on as often as I'd expect. I checked the oil last week (both crank and tranny) and I was amazed at how good that stuff looks after 4000 km. I was also amazed at how that tranny stuff smells btw, holy donuts what kinda crap did they put in there to make it smell like that!! Anyway, won't be any worse or better than Mobil 1. I just couldn't get Mobil over here so I got the Red Line stuff. |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 05:27 pm: |
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Buell dealers initially use Dino oil. After break in Synth is approved by Buell (& Harley) and provides superior protection. (Message edited by tpoppa on October 10, 2004) |
Trenchtractor
| Posted on Monday, October 11, 2004 - 07:15 pm: |
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But avoid going back to mineral after running synth... Some synth leaves a coating on the metal that 'offends' mineral oils... Meaning the mineral may not 'wet' to the metal surfaces properly... |
Aesquire
| Posted on Monday, October 11, 2004 - 10:00 pm: |
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Trench... that turns out not to be the case. Makes a heck of a good sales/rumour thing don't it. Don't worry, you can even mix them, but the combo will not last as long as straight synth. |
Newxb9er
| Posted on Tuesday, October 12, 2004 - 12:40 am: |
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Check this out http://www.mobil1.com/motorcycle/index.jsp Click on "10 things you should know" So I get this right, should I use the 20w50 in my tranny as well? Or go to the gear oil? |