| Author | Message | ||
     Captainkirk |
FYI: The topic of forks was discussed in a past issue of Battle2win, and I believe the general conclusion was that the M2 forks were actually more rigid than the X1/S3 forks-the example given that if you took the front wheel and squeezed it between your knees and twisted the bars, there was more flex on the X1-type fork than on the M2 style! After reading this, I tried it on my M2 and an X1 at a local dealership and have to concur. Try it for yourself before you think about changing forks.  | ||
| Rick_a |
That illustrates that it's more rigid in one plane...there are a lot of other forces to consider...there's a reason why most racebikes and race-reps wear inverted forks. | ||
| Bomber |
it may be useful to remember that not all of any type of object are created equal . . . I"m going for cartirdge emulators for my MaDeuece this winter (I should document all that's done and call it "this old Buell"  | ||
| Rick_a |
Ah, but even a cartridge "emulator" is no match for the real deal. | ||
| Bomber |
rick -- you're almost certainly correct, but at a buckfifty, I can afford them -- forks and trees are at least twice that (from what I've seen), and (I know I'm bucking a trend here, by not claiming hero status), I jsut ain't fast enough to outride the forks on my MaDeuece very often -- now the rear shock, yep, I need to replace it this winter as well | ||
| Rick_a |
I'm just bustin' your chops, man. I wish I could upgrade my suspension...but my POS truck has priority right now | ||
| Bomber |
I figured you were, bud . . . . and I was grinnin while writing back (although I forgot the smiley faces) . . . . it's always somthing getting in the way of what's funnest, ain't it? | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I know you guys have mentioned it a few times in a few areas, but relaxing my grip on the bars really makes a difference - I thought I was relaxing but have found if I relax my grip just that bit more the bike isn't as lively and it just gets on with business - very cool! I think I'm getting used to the X1  I have another question - what is the best method for checking wheel and engine alignment? Or can you point me to a post? thanks, lemonchili | ||
| Rick_a |
Another thing that helps is using your legs and torso to support you instead of your arms when leaned over...makes a big difference. Wheel alignment...a couple race stands and some string works ok. | ||
| Henrik |
An inclinometer on the wheels will help determine vertical alignment. Be careful not to mess too much with it unless you're absolutely certain what you're doing. Henrik | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
OK, I've been through all the inputs on the board about isolator movement and removal. I have a busted belt on my 2000 M2 and I'm trying to put on a new belt. I loosened the isolator bolt, per the service manual, but it didn't move or spin as described in the service manual. There wasn't anyway to get the belt between the frame and the isolator (isolator wouldn't even move). I then removed both isolator bolts and I've tried to move the frame and motor in different directions with no luck to get the isolators out. Do I need the tool mentioned in the service bulletin...many inputs said all I need is a mallet, but I've had no luck so far. My e-mail address is tonyderossett@aol.com and I'd appreciate from help anybody. v/r Tony | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
I've string-lined it already and it looks right, but it was pretty hard to get the forks right in the centre and then check the string - I should probably do it again with someone helping. Pammy's idea about using aluminium bars sounds good, I was thinking of something like that. Henrik - Inclinometer sounds like a good idea, I'll have to check out how much they cost. I guess you could use that for checking a few things. I'm not going to mess with it, still getting my head around the whole motor mounting/isolators setup, just want to check it, I still have a very minor high-speed weave. The alignment is probably ok, just trying to rule things out thanks, lemonchili | ||
| Henrik |
Inclinometers range from $5 for a Harbor Freight cheapo plastic dial type to $100 - 150 for a decent digital one. I went cheap, but haven't used it for anything critical. I'm tempted to upgrade, since suspension tuners more and more are using angles to determine setup, rather than shock lengths and fork tube position. It's just curiosity though, so maybe not right now Henrik | ||
| Jlewis50 |
NEW TOPIC HERE Has anyone had a problem with the spring rubbing the body of your Penske shock? The collar on mine that retains the spring had rubbed the anodizing off of the shock body. I have blown out the collar with air but it is still happening. | ||
| Tslem |
I am new to this site, but I am looking at a friends buell and need some tips, 1999 cyclone, the allen head bolt that holds the swingarm on the belt side of the motor isn't centered within the hole. Is this a simple isolater that has shifted or distorted during a laydown, or is something REALLY wrong. I rode the bike and it "appeared" fine. Any help is appreciated. thanks | ||
| Bomber |
T -- the bolts are not centered in the holes when all is well, so that, by itself, is not a cause for concern -- they sit below and to the rear of center -- isolator failures result in other symptoms -- increased vibrations (increased over what, the person with only 30 minutes on the bike might well ask -- let's just say it's pronounced), wonky handling . . . . also, check the isolators for tears or distortions to the rubber (they are often visable without removing the swingarm, but, alas, not always) . . . I'm gonna replace my Y2K islators this winter -- living in a metro area, the funk in the air, if nothing else, has likely attacked them . . . . | ||
| Captainkirk |
You mean like this?  | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
JLewis - look at http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/12791.html There's a post by TimS, don't know if it's the same problem though. Re wheel alignment methods, I found these pages if anyone's interested in checking if wheels are in the same plane: Wrenching with Rob Wrenching with Rob 2 I haven't gone that far, but did check my alignment once again, without rushing it for once, and got it as close as I can to true. That combined with a touch less rear preload and the bike seems less "twitchy" over bumps at speed. (Maybe the preload was the problem all along?) I don't feel like it needs a steering damper now, which either means its better, or I'm getting used to it thanks, lemonchili | ||
| Bluelightning |
Yet another change in topic... Does anyone have a pic of the top portion of a XB9R or 12R triple clamp? How are the bars held in place? I am thinking about getting a set and modifying them to fix my X-1 front end to make my Eurocomponents fairing fit and see what type of issues they would cause as far as hitting the tank. Thanks!! | ||
| Rick_a |
It's a screw on the end of the bars. | ||
| Bluelightning |
I just found that out. Now my only question is would I have to use the complete triple clamp, or will the XB top clamp bolt up with my X-1 lower? I guess if I am going to mill out the tube opening some, I can modify the mounting area. I would also assume that the bearing area would be the same??? | ||
| Rick_a |
You'd be better off having a machinist make an upper triple clamp...the steering head offset is totally different...and after spending all that money you'd be better off just getting a set of height adjustable clip-ons. | ||
| Bluelightning |
Rick, I measured a set of clamps this past weekend. They look very close dimensionally. The only thing would be the bore size which can be fixed really quickly. I still might scrap this idea and go with a set of supercross bars. Haven't decided yet. | ||
| Bluelightning |
Any one know the correct p/n for the front isolator? I found a tear in the one on my X-1, so I might as well replace it. I have also heard that this is the same mount as a HD Dyna, is that correct? | ||
| Al_lighton |
16207-79B, $43.00 We've got 'em, American Sport Bike part number 17025, but it isn't on the web yet. I've got some in stock. (Message edited by al_lighton on September 03, 2004) | ||
| Bluelightning |
Thanks Al!! | ||
| Bobpaul |
hey all, here's a brain teaser: after reading the wrenching with Rob articles I used his string method to align my wheels and I found that the rear was slightly out. After correcting it I measured the adjuster gap as per the Buell manual and found them off by 0.060" or about 1/16" side to side. I thought this was pretty cool until I rode the bike. It feels about the same but it drifts left if you take your hands off the bars. It did it before too but does it even more now. So, what's up with that???? | ||
| Empire |
I have a 2001 S3. Past few months seems like in hard cornering the back tire is slipping or wobbles or the bike shifts in the rear. The bike has 38,000 miles. I thought it was bearings so i did the rear wheel bearings which made no difference. I run D220 and keep them at 40-42 psi. Really haven't adjusted the suspension much from the factory settings. A little extra preload in the forks but that is it. bike has handled great for my riding for 3 years. lately this rear tire or swingarm thing has me baffled. I can see where the passenger foot pegs have scratched the swingarm from what I think is excess swingarm or frame movement. This leads me to believe the isolators are shot. NEED SOME ADVICE HERE GUYS. If it is isolators do I need the isolator tool and is it a tough job.} | ||
| Henrik |
Bob; depending on how you measured the rear wheel alignment within the swingarm (I'm guessing that's what you refer to as adjuster gap), that could be the problem. Just measuring the length of the adjuster bolts or the position within the slot is not necessarily accurate. What you really want is the axle parallel to the swingarm pivot. So the best way is to measure from the center of swingarm pivot to the center of the rear axle. Distance should be identical for the 2 sides. Hope this helps. Henrik | ||
| Captainkirk |
Empire- Without seeing the bike, I'd concur- I think the isolators are shot. If you can get the weight off the back wheel, say, with a floor jack and a 2X4 you can (with a helper hanging on to the bars) wiggle the swingarm and watch the isolators. If you can't do that, just sit on the bike and bounce on the seat; again, watch the isolators. The movement should be equal and very small. If you look carefully with a flashlight you can sometimes see them peeling apart. Good luck. |
