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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 07:20 pm: |
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For Sale - 1998 Buell S1 Signed by the MAN himself KIDDING OK, Roger was correct in saying that at some point she is going to blow up and I will have to replace something. 44058km and the stator appears to be toast, no charge coming from the wires to the regulator. Continuity Test is making my meter beep like ................. I don't know what beeps. The manual says about 38-52vAC and I am getting NONE. Can this be an intermittent problem as the first time I checked I got voltage and have check twice more and NONE. Can someone here post or email me the part number for a new stator? PS: the OLD DR650 Kicked over and started the first shot. Think I'll go by an R1 - Bwahahahahah, become disgruntled like Dyna I also got a sweet deal on a 95 Saab Convertible thats in need of a power top motor too!!!! Bloody Machines |
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Steveford
| Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 07:24 pm: |
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Sounds like you got a lemon. |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 07:28 pm: |
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Damm Buell, Never thought it would EVER break down. I guess after 44058km I am going good. Well I told the wife it was a good excuse to go buy an XB12r?!? |
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Tripper
| Posted on Sunday, August 22, 2004 - 10:04 pm: |
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29967-89A was the stator p/n on 8/23/01. Knowing Buell, the number has changed at least twice. |
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Crusty
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 04:54 am: |
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You can get it from the local Harley dealer. Just tell him it's for a Sportster. |
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Buelliedan
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 07:26 am: |
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Don't buy a factory stator. Get an Accell stator. they are guaranteed for life and built better. Available through Dennis kirk for $100. |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:04 am: |
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Thanks Guys |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:37 am: |
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I agree with Dan, the factory stator cost around 129, and OZ toasted his on the way home, its an easy job, should take all of about 4 hours, another thing to check is see if the stator is grounded, ie run an Ohms test from both leads out of the stator to the case, what i have seen in the past is that the small metal tab (that holds the wires from coming in contact with the rotor) vibrate to the point of rubbing the wires through the covering, grounding the stator, the fix even if this is not the problem is to polish or peen the metal tab, and use high temp silicone behind the tab to act as a vibration dampner anymore question feel free to ask(OZ'z stator was like my 2nd one and only took us around 4 hours when it was done in a parking lot, the big thing is going to be finding the large sockets that hold the clutch basket and rotor in place, i think it was 1 13/16 and 1 1/8??? but not sure again ask away if you need helps, its really not that hard of a job and dont forget to get primary gaskets when you order the stator, you mentioned some problems with you dealer and this part before R |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 09:50 am: |
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I just called the local retailer and the one as per the above part number retails for $218.95CAN or about $168.00US. I did a search on the Dennis Kirk website and $85.95US with a lifetime warranty. The only problem is that the Buell Stator has a long wire coming off it and the one on the website has a much shorter wire. Will this work? Also, Roger mentions that they ground on the wire coming off the stator, I wonder if I can fix this while waiting for the part. It is grounded across the two connections on the plug as well. (Message edited by Newfie_Buell on August 23, 2004) |
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Impulse_101
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 10:13 am: |
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Wires can be extended. It's too bad that after a measly 44K you have to replace a $100 part. What's this world coming to! Next thing you know Goldwings are going to come with bad frame welds from the factory and Honda won't spend the money to repair them correctly! Na, that'll never happen Japanese companies are so much better than Buells...
JT |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 10:32 am: |
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Also, Roger mentions that they ground on the wire coming off the stator, I wonder if I can fix this while waiting for the part. IF the wires have been cut by the metal tab, i can not see why some solder and heat shrink tube would not get you by until the new part comes in, as far as the part itself is concerned, i bought mine from dennis Kirt, but bought the one for the Buell with the longer wires, i have no idea if you can solder the end on and make it work, but i do know Bomber extended his wires so that he could mount the regulator under the seat, hence it shold be OK, however i dont know how it would effect the Warrenty??? It's too bad that after a measly 44K you have to replace a $100 part 25k miles, $100 part 4 hours at $85 an hour, plus gasket and shop supplies, while not bad i would not stand up and cheer about it, in the end if you had a shop do it, it might cost closer to $500, for a part that does not move, and has no moving parts, again not bad, but not something i would cheer about of corse this is and always will be MHO R |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 10:36 am: |
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Damm Shame isn't it that "The Bitch" finally let me down. I think they should get their act together!!!! You know, To date the shock leaked (warranty), It has gone through 2 belts (self inflicted problem), three sets of tires (on the fourth now), two sets of brake pads, steering hear bearings cleaned and repacked twice, brake fluid changed twice, regular oil/primary changes at 5000km, primary chain tensioner replaced 5000km ago. The question is: Would I ever get rid of my S1? NO BLOODY WAY WHY???? Because every time I ride, it always makes me smile!!!! The DR650 makes me smile too but not the same way. OH yeah the part is actually $168.00US. Probably going to order the Dennis Kirk one from the website. (Message edited by Newfie_Buell on August 23, 2004) |
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Mikej
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 10:40 am: |
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"but i do know Bomber extended his wires so that he could mount the regulator under the seat" Interesting, got pics? Both of the vacated location and of the new location mounting method? Thanks. |
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Bomber
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 12:15 pm: |
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nossir, not specifically, but I'll take some and try to remember to post ;-} |
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Mikej
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 12:47 pm: |
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Thanks. Or I could just look at your bike next time we're in the same neighborhood. I'm just playing with ideas again. Got any links/leads to a Wood's XL frameset????? |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 03:18 pm: |
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OK somebody post up the current Buell/HD part number for the stator Bill needs, i thought i used the Drag unit thats ment for a sportster, but want to make sure that Bill gets the right one is this the correct part number:29967-89A Please post up so Bill can get it ordered, and his ride on the road again, everyone knows how short the summer is up north R |
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Wyckedflesh
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 03:40 pm: |
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So what your saying Newfie is that you shouldn't have been riding the bike ![; )](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/winker.gif) |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 05:11 pm: |
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Ride it until it either BREAKS or HURTS!!!! Looks like its the stator, all I need now is the two sockets that hold the rotor to the crank and the clutch basket in. I also need to go buy a clutch compression tool to get it out. Anyone have any idea on the nut sizes, the only ones I don't own are a 1 13/16 and 1 1/8. Off to Canadian Tire for those. |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 05:31 pm: |
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I also need to go buy a clutch compression tool to get it out. You do not need to buy this part, here is my best explination on how this works On the clutch side you need a set of ring clip pliers, to remove the large clip that holds in the release bearing, once that is removed, you should be able to se the nut, remove the nut, and the entire clutch basket can be removed as one unit, you do not need to compress or do anything with the clutch, the only thing to be carefull of is the nut on the clutch side is reverse thread(it might be the crank side, one of them is reverse), than both the rotor and clutch basket can be taken out with the chain atached While in there consider upgrading to the new chain shoe(if its not done allready) and maybe the new engine/trans seal located behind the rotor/stator, also and this is very important, DO NOT REUSE the stator bolts, they are a special strech style bolt, if reused they can come apart, but they are generally a stocking item Othe than that it should be a 4 hour job, and if OZ and myself can do it in a parking lot, it should be a breeze in the comfort of you garage R |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 05:36 pm: |
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You do realize the POWER of Ozz???? That man could put an arse in a cat?!? AND "Stocking item" Thats even funnier than your post over in the Badweb Rally thread!!! Chain Shoe was done earlier this year and I will check all other seals, etc, etc, etc..... |
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Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 06:23 pm: |
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Ride it until it either BREAKS or HURTS!!!! I've done both on that bike!!!!!!!!!! HEHEHE ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/biggrin.gif) |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 06:46 pm: |
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Yeah, Its ALL Grumpy's Fault!!!!! Didn't you love the board hard Corbin Seat of the S1. Couldn't have been that bad seeing you put almost 1000km on it. Damm that was a fun week - come on over so we can do it again. I need to go back to the West Coast for a Road Trip. |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 06:51 pm: |
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Roger, The sizes for the two nuts are 1 3/16 for the Clutch Basket 1 1/8 for the Crankshaft. |
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Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 07:01 pm: |
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Next year, I have a plan! Trust me I'm a doctor! Laguna Seca watch out, the cooks are coming ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/biggrin.gif) |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 07:20 pm: |
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Next year Yes 2005 I have a plan! Did you order tickets, and do i want to know the plan Trust me I'm a doctor! OBGYN i presume Laguna Seca watch out, the cooks are coming I am more concerened for myself than the race track R |
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Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 07:28 pm: |
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If we're going, I'm sure you'll be there Roger, with or without your lovely wife, I haven't got your e-mail so can you shoot me some chevy pics, & I'll talk to you of "THE PLAN" |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 07:38 pm: |
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As soon as i get the pics, schools not in yet, few more days till i get a hold of who i need to my email is on the left side of the screen, click on GRNDSKPR, and my profile will come up, the email inside is my good one the wife has mentioned shes coming, shouldnt be much different than last time, she just drinks a little less, and keeps me warm at night Drtop me a line with your good email R, yes i forgot it |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:00 pm: |
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Did I tell you how Ozz and Grumpy re-aligned the Convertible Top on the Saab 900 using a couple c-clamps, two bits of hardwood, a level and framing square? Simply Amazing!!!! |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:22 pm: |
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The verdict is now in and the problem resolved The power of the internet and good friends is simply amazing!!! The Cooks Solved the Problem - By the Way I recall doing ALL the Cooking here at my place!!! 1. Roger was "Spot ON" in the diagnosis Here is the stator when I finally removed the primary chain, clutch basket and rotor.
As Please note the burn mark on the metal plate that holds the stator wiring in place. Once I removed the metal plate I found this exactly as you see it. I checked for continuity once again and it is grounded somewhere within the windings of the stator. (Message edited by Newfie_Buell on August 23, 2004) |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:30 pm: |
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![stator #1](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/496363/71844.jpg) |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:32 pm: |
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When this goes back together I can see the plate getting a small indentation for the wire and I may attempt to wrap it in a small piece of rubber to keep it from chafing again. |
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Fullpower
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 08:37 pm: |
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yeah you burned it. just put the accel stator in my 98 sporty a few months ago. should have changed that crankshaft seal at the same time,now the transmission "makes" oil. run hard, and trans gets extra oil, and blows out the vent hose. think maybe i could just redirect the vent hose into the oil tank?? |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 09:03 pm: |
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How long was the wire coming out of the accel stator?? The regulator for the S1 is way on the other side of the bike. |
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Grndskpr
| Posted on Monday, August 23, 2004 - 09:03 pm: |
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Bill all you need to do is polish the edge of the plate than use high temp silicone under the plate, the silicone dampens the vibration, and a polished edge will not cut wires, an added bonus is silicone when it breaks away wil cause no damage to the trans Also while you wait till the stator shows up, keep an eye on the seal, you may see some oil leakage on the lower end, i would repalce it, the new seal has 2 edges and does a better job look in the KV under lubrication No where near as hard as you thought, actually really easy nighty night R |
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Newfie_buell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 10:29 am: |
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Blake, Can this be moved to the KV Section? Add it to the thread where Bill outlined the diagnosis. The photos may be of value to others in the future. |
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