Author |
Message |
Hogs
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 07:49 pm: |
|
327 small block CHEY flat out compared to a 427 big block CHEVY SOUNDdddddddddddddddddddd.. But thats just meeeeee :-)) |
Odie
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 07:58 pm: |
|
Maybe drill some holes in the outer airbox cover too!!!! Then you wouldn't have to buy the blue see-thru stuff!!! HaHa!! I think with the holes drilled in the box and an intake into the area between outer airbox and the inner airbox would help quite a bit. I don't think I have to much to do for the next few minutes so I'm gonna go drill my box............................................................................. ..... |
Hogs
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 08:01 pm: |
|
Drill the wifes while your at it Odie or the Girlfriends :-) or Both..:-) |
Odie
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 08:10 pm: |
|
That's what I meant LOL!!!!!! Actually, later on I'm gonna drill the airbox per Timbo's pic. It cant hurt anything. I've done it to other bikes before and always had a little improvement. Placebo effect I reckon........... (Message edited by odie on August 07, 2004) |
M1combat
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 08:20 pm: |
|
Just did mine. A good deal louder... I haven't set the AFV yet, but I'll get to it tomorrow I assure you . I think though, that the best way to do this may be with a saw and cut large openings out. I will do this later. I'll be sure to try to keep the structural integrity but I have a better idea... What about making a piece of foam that fits into the top of the hole (where the actuator motor goes on the twelves) that will place pressure on the top of the airbox lid with the outer airbox cover installed? |
Hogs
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 08:31 pm: |
|
M1combat , And you mean cut out all of the Box around just leave the top with foam in it pressing down when ya install the outer tank cover sort of speaking???YEah will that work? Hmmm got to have a better look at that puppy tomorrow...That wd. probally be best of all as long as theres enough down pressure on that..to seal the filter .. |
Odie
| Posted on Saturday, August 07, 2004 - 09:02 pm: |
|
I'm thinking of making one of these. I have everything I need already. Gonna go look at it later on with the airbox and think, think, think.....This would look cool under the see-thru blue stuff!!!! |
Timbo
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 01:02 am: |
|
Guys, Take another look at the last chart I posted. It's with the airbox and filter completely removed, just an open stack. It didn't change much at all. That tells me that the 42 holes drilled are plenty to supply the optimum needs of the motor. If doing the run without the airbox and filter netted any gain, I would be looking for a way to provide additional air, but that isn't the case. That's specifically why I did those runs, to verify that. Timbo |
Timbo
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 01:50 am: |
|
Hogs, I like the sound of the D&D much better too, but sound doesn't always equal power. Below is a photo I took of the chart last year, the blue lines are the race can and the red lines are the D&D. The race can is clearly stronger from the begining of the run till about 3900 RPM. Then the D&D takes over, but only until about 5100 RPM. Then the race can gets stronger all the rest of the RPM range. The D&D may FEEL stronger from 3200 RPM till 5100 RPM but that's only because it's climbing out of the big dip in the torque curve it suffers down low. In reality it's stronger for about 1200 RPM in the middle of the RPM range. While the race can is stronger for 2400 RPM at the top of the RPM range. I chose the race can based on these results, but that's just me, your preference may be different and I respect that. Trust me, I want the D&D to work, cause I love the deep down, mean sound of it. Maybe it will work better than the race can with the airbox mods. I'll find out next week, but in the end, power is power and I'll go with what makes the most. Timbo |
Draoidh
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 04:26 pm: |
|
After reading this thread I de-AirBox'd my 9R this weekend. I am very happy with the change, cheapest perf mod to date I chose to cut out the Air Filter cap off a XB12 Air box and mounted a 4" bolt through the lower to hold it in place. Worked out very nice. Here are some pics of what I did. http://www.drakestudios.com/vampire/No_AB-000.jpg http://www.drakestudios.com/vampire/No_AB-001.jpg http://www.drakestudios.com/vampire/No_AB-002.jpg http://www.drakestudios.com/vampire/No_AB-003.jpg -Connar |
Odie
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 04:58 pm: |
|
Nice job. That's exactly what I had in mind. Does that one bolt hold the front of the lid down enough??? |
Draoidh
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 05:55 pm: |
|
Yep, the lip and posts on the cover holds it in place. The one bolt is enough to keep it tight to the filter. |
Hogs
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 06:48 pm: |
|
This is probally a Stupid question,However call me stupid :-), Do you think that the threaded stud being within the air filter, wd. create any air turbulence to effect the flow of air around and in the stack,and even if it did wd. it cost a lost of power or are we all splitting hairs here ? |
Odie
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 07:23 pm: |
|
If it did (and I doubt it does) you could move to two bolts on the outside of the filter. There is enough material in the airbox to do this also. Connar, what stack are you using? I can see the silver of it on one of your pics>>>>>> |
Trenchtractor
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 06:21 am: |
|
10 points to Connar for beating me to the punch. Oh to have more time on my hands... I have no missconceptions about the complete removal of the lid making too much difference over the holes, more that I want it to be neater. I know no one will see it, but I know the air box lid isn't neccessary and I want to dump it... On that note, Opto, did you have a plan for a servo motor eliminator for the 12's??? I'd like one so I can remove the servo and re-route the cabling to under the seat. |
Darthane
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 10:20 am: |
|
Odie: Like this? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=32777&post=171150#POS T171150 |
Draoidh
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 10:48 am: |
|
Hogs, I do not think the bolt being on the insides is really impacting anything. I located it between the case vents and sensor. This area already had airflow obstructions. Odie, I have a Brion-James SVVS. I bought it used for $60 before the stack challenge --Connar Edit: I forgot to add something. I have the Race ECM and Buell Race muffler on my bike. Before cutting down the air box it would backfire in the exhaust when riding on compression. With this mod that backfire is completely gone (Message edited by draoidh on August 09, 2004) |
Hogs
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 03:48 pm: |
|
Okay bolt aside,.. RAIN..-> how about all the water that flows in around the fuel cap and now around the filter base now that it is open all around there as well with holes, how about water entering the filter there? any big concerns etc,as water can enter the filter there.. Just asking not that it really bothers me as I run an open stack on my stroker but when it rains I`m concern about that one... |
Draoidh
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 04:29 pm: |
|
Yes that can be an issue. I will have to take another look to see what might be done about it. I wonder how much more water comes in around the fuel cap vs the ram air. |
Hogs
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 04:52 pm: |
|
Well, when one puts scoops in the outer tank cover that would even be more of an issue I wd. think... |
Hogs
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 05:46 pm: |
|
Hmmm If the K&N is coated with K&N oil as it should be wd. that not shred any water that came in contact with the filter around that opening just wondering??? |
Odie
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 06:12 pm: |
|
Well, I drilled my box last night (wish my wife was that easy with me!!) I didn't get to ride until today. I REALLY need a Drummer now. My intake is louder than my exhaust HA!HA! I did get my 9 pipe in the mail today though. Sending it off as soon as possible to NC. I tried as much as possible to be fair in my assessment of the mod and I really do think it made a significant difference. No idle problems, less coughing, winds up a little faster. I don't think that the amount of water that could enter under the outer airbox cover would be significant. It still has to get thru the filter too so I wouldn't worry about. If it's pouring rain I'm getting off the road anyways. Darthane- I don't know how I missed that thread. Yes, that is exactly what I'm talking about. Nice job. Now I have a few examples to go by. I'm going to wait until I get the Drummer made up as I have the servo motor to deal with so it will come off with the Drummer. I do think some intake openings on the front of the outer airbox cover might let a little more water in than I would like. I adjusted my 'spension last night per the service manual. Much better!!! |
Hogs
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 06:16 pm: |
|
Just finished Drilling mine as well, going for a run here an hour or two if the rain lets up, let ya know if I feel any difference as well... |
Odie
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 06:21 pm: |
|
Cool. Hopefully I'm not imagining it!! I really think it made a decent diff all the way around. I haven't had a chance to wind it up above 70mph or so but maybe tomorrow.......Let me know what ya think Hogs...... |
Darthane
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 06:58 pm: |
|
Odie, I don't fault you for missing that thread in any way...it's from May of '03! The mod was pretty inexpensive, and I'd recommend a nice, thick piece of aluminum instead of the plexiglass (though looking straight down the throttle body is cool!). I still have all the pieces for that...I wonder if Mookie wants them. |
Odie
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 07:05 pm: |
|
I didn't notice the year!! Ha.....I take it you have moved to something else since you said you have the pieces?? What ya runnin' now? |
Tatsu
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 07:18 pm: |
|
Odie, Let me get this straight. You drilled out your airbox on the 12s? Did you do the plexi-glass mod too. I have a 12r and might be interested in doing this mod. Tatsu |
M1combat
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 07:22 pm: |
|
The water issue is one of the reasons that I decided to keep the lower rim of my upper inner airbox. That way the water would have to come in under the outer cover and then go up and over the lip that would be left of the upper inner airbox. Also, I may drill two hoes (err, uhhh, holes... err uhhh... The damn lower airbox OK...) near the rear (oh stop) to let water flow out. I may even run two hoses from there down to the inside of the rearsets. Also, in case none of you have thought about it... My plans are to remove the need for air to come through the frame completely. At that point, I'll probably remove the sleeve that runs through the frame/tank and cap it at the top and bottom. That should give me about another quart of fuel or so. I'm still mulling over the best way to remove that. I may leave most of it but drill four holes at the top and four at the bottom so the sleeve itself stays there but will allow fuel in and out. |
Odie
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 07:23 pm: |
|
Yes, I have a 12S. No, I did not do the set-up like Darthane. I just drilled all the holes in it for now. I like the results. It will take a little bit to get used to the intake noise but it sounds cool. Power is better too. I will eventually go to that set I think but after the Drummer due to the muffler servo motor. |
Tatsu
| Posted on Monday, August 09, 2004 - 07:59 pm: |
|
Hey Hogs.. let me know how that run goes. Now the thing about the water concerns me, cause in Hawaii your lible to get rained on without warning. How would the water get inside the box and would it be enough water to make a difference in engine performance? |