| Author | Message | ||
     Whodom |
Is this common knowledge, or did I happen to receive a new clutch cable for my S3 that was missing the large warning label that reads "WARNING! HEX FITTING AT PRIMARY CASE CAN BE WRUNG OFF WITH TORQUE LEVELS IN EXCESS OF 0.5 FT-LB!!!!"? I was finishing up the repairs on my salvage reclaim 2000 S3 yesterday. Installed updated primary tensioner. Was installing new cable, snugging it up with Craftsman 1/2" open end wrench. Just when I thought it was completely seated, "spink!", cracks right off at the case. At best, $20 down the tubes. At worst, wait another week for Dave to get me a new cable if my local dealer doesn't have one. DANG! I was ready to ride this thing! Sorry, just needed to vent a little.... Hugh | ||
| R1DynaSquid |
LOL, everyone who replaces a clutch cable for the first time seems to snap the damn thing. I dont know why they are so cheaply made. | ||
| Whodom |
OK, glad to hear I'm not the first. Given it's a threaded aluminum piece with 1/16" wall thickness and sharp profile threads, it's not hard to see why it snapped off. Guess I should have studied the old one a little closer before I tried to install new. Man, that is a sick feeling when you realize you just hosed a $20 part and it will be at least another week before you get to ride your "new" bike!!!! | ||
| Daves |
I'll be back at work on Tuesday. Dave 1-866-757-1651 | ||
| Shotgun |
Whodom, you actually can ride it for a week with just a little oil loss. I noticed a little oil on the ground before I left Friday for a weekend ride. My clutch cable, that was ok on installation, was broken same as yours on the aluminium threaded piece. I checked the primary oil level and after 550 miles this weekend, it was only down a tad. Looked like more for the mess it made, but I didn't miss my ride. | ||
| Whodom |
Shotgun- thanks for the tip. I actually was figuring how I could repair (believe it or not) the thing- if I had the patience. Take 1/8" steel, drill and tap hole to match threads of aluminum portion. Cut and file outside to match dimensions of hex on end of clutch cable sheath. Drill and tap two TINY holes into end of aluminum hex. Drill and countersink two matching holes in 1/8" steel. Thread 1/8" steel over broken aluminum threaded stub. Secure threads with red Loctite. Put dab of sealant on alum hex, attach 1/8" steel repair plate with two tiny countersunk screws. Wala! At least as strong as original, only takes ~2 hours of skilled machining to accomplish. I guess $20 for a new cable isn't that bad..... | ||
| Bluelightning |
$20 if you want to keep a stock cable. I have the braided stainless from Barnett's. Those things are double the cost!! but then again the cable ends are made of stainless, so they don't break as easy...  | ||
| Spudman |
I've never snapped one off there, but I have gone through a few clutch cables. Just love the way a new cable feels, can make a major difference in shifting. I suspect that hex fitting is designed to fail before you damage the case. A stainless one will work but keep in mind the case is aluminum and can be damaged by excessive torque, then your screwed. But braided stainless clutch cable sounds cool. Bluelightning - how about a part #? | ||
| Bomber |
barnett makes em -- your dealer should be able to get them, but I KNOW Daves can! | ||
| Blackbelt |
HINT HINT |
