| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Assuming the stator / regulator connection was disconnected (which it just about has to be to do the test you described), the test does not really test anything. The regulator can't regulate with the stator disconnected. Do the exact same test, but on the stator side. You should see like 60 volts ac when you rev it. | ||
| 2000m2 |
Before I started the bike up, the battery read about 12V and once it was running, I got about 11V, same with the engine revved up. I'm not sure I understand where to test on the stator side (I thought that was what I did). There seemed to be only one line (had like 2 "plugs", female end and male end on the reg side) that I was able to disconnect going to the reg. I couldn't find a place to test the other wire. Sorry about this...kind of confusing...  | ||
| Reepicheep |
The confusion is probably my fault... this stuff is hard to communicate on the web. Sounds like you got the right plug. Once you disconnect it, one side heads off to the voltage regulator, the other end goes off to the stator (buried in the primary case of your engine). Did you test the female plug side (that goes to the stator) or the male plug side (that goes to the voltage regulator)? If you tested the female side plug, the one that goes to the stator, and saw that voltage, then your stator is toast allright. If you tested the male side plug, the one that goes to the voltage regulator, all you discovered is that when your bikes alternator is disconnected, your bikes alternator is disconnected.  So, the most simple test in summary: 1) Disconnect that big plug between the voltage regulator and the stator (by the oil pump, tucked under the cam cover). 2) Hook up a meter, set to measure volts AC, on the two female holes in the plug on the side of the wire (the one going into the engine, not the one going into the voltage regulator). 3) Start the bike and measure voltage. If you don't see something like 60 volts, the stator is toast. | ||
| 2000m2 |
That reading i got was from the female side of the plug...how much is a stator?? Thanks for your help! | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/59815.html?1087607291 Could use some help here - any ideas? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Stators run $125 or so from harley, about half that aftermarket. I am assuming the female side of the plug goes to the stator, thats what I recall. Double check it, it will be the one NOT going to the voltage regulator. If thats the case, and you measured volts AC with the bike running and the voltage regulator disconnected, and saw .9 volts, it is definately your stator. | ||
| Iamike |
M2- You are showing great patience with your problem. I wouldn't want to be so long without my ride. If you want to order parts here is a good source, J&P Cycles www.jpcycle.com They are about 1/2 the cost than Harley Here is a voltmeter that I installed in my dash.  | ||
| Iamike |
M2- p.s. You should get a shop manual. It has great diagrams & pictures to help you with your problem. | ||
| 2000m2 |
Any ideas where I can get a shop manual? The only reason I am being patient is because the nearest shop is at least an hour from me, and I don't feel like getting ripped off. I would also like to learn something about my bike along the way. If I am replacing the stator, should I just go ahead and replace the regulator as well? Thanks again for all the help!! | ||
| Iamike |
I bough mine from the dealer. I see there is a similar discussion going on over in the Electrical-starters, lights & gagues section that might be helpful. When I replaced my stator it wasn't too hard but I do dig around in mechanical stuff once in awhile. Pulling the primary chain and re-installing it is important to get it right, you can do a lot of expensive damage if you don't. An impact wrench, locktite & a couple of big sockets (1-1/8, 1-1/4 or 28,29,30mm) and a clip-ring tool are about all you need plus the allen & torx. I'm a tool junkie so I figure I can justify the tools with the money I save. If you are an hour away from a shop & are just going to order the parts, ping me with your address & I'll copy the couple of pages on the proceedure & I'll mail it to you. If you want to call a shop & order stuff contact Dave S. in Appleton, He'll get you any parts mailed to you. Make sure you order a manual though. | ||
| 2000m2 |
I got the manual! This thing is great, answers just about every question I have. I hope to get working on the bike real soon. Need to get it back on the road!! Kind of busy with work, grrr! | ||
| Vindigni714 |
Will a race module add anything to my 96'S1?Did it come with one? I get at least 6,500 RPM (it seems),from my Buell,it seems I couldn't do much better unless I dig into my motor to match- up to a race module. Any help? Johnny V | ||
| Oxford |
Hey guys. I am really confused. I need help and yes I need your help too. After installing the engine back into the bike (After rebuilding it) and ready to start it, I have NOTHING. No power. I tested the battery. Good. Then I went to the starter. Got power there. After testing everything else, I have nothing. The key is turned on and no lights, or even gage lights. I know it could be just about anything, but I am hoping that someone here can throw a wrench into this and just maybe hit the right part for the bike to start. What could cause NOTHING to happen??? | ||
| Rocketman |
Johnny V, a race kit will bring nothing more to the party on its own. Oxford, suggest you try for power at you ignition switch, then work your way back to the battery. I presume the battery is earthed good to the frame? Rocket | ||
| 99x1 |
"What could cause NOTHING to happen" The power goes from the battery to the starter stud, then to the 30 amp circuit breaker. Measure voltage to chassis on both studs of the circuit breaker - it should be on both. From the circuit breaker, it goes to the key switch - easily disconnected behind the flyscreen and bypassed by joining the 3 wires together in the connector. Good Luck.. | ||
| Fuscat |
Oxford I JUST went through this Monday!! It died on me during a ride and I had nothing! No power! When I started in on it monday night every thing tested out ok continuty wise. What it ended up being was the main power lead cable to the starter stud that 99x1 mentioned. The big wire that runs from the battery to that stud on the starter is connected with an o-ring connector. Well the connector had busted at where the cable is crimped to it. However the cable end was sitting on the broken connector just enough to give me readings when testing. Once the cable was jiggled it came off and obviously the connector ring was missing! Grab that big wire and jiggle that sucker and see if it is still connected!! All I had to do was get new connector crimp it down and tighten it back down with the nut on that stud! Works like a champ! I hope this helps!! | ||
| 2000m2 |
Must be the stator! I smelled the oil coming out of the primary...terrible! I am having trouble getting the big ole cover on the left side off. I took out all 11 bolts with the allen key...what else is holding it on there?? Grrr!! Thanks! | ||
| Reepicheep |
That makes for a pretty easy diagnosis. You took off all the shifter parts, and the derby cover and the clutch cable attachment parts, right? Could just be the gasket gluing it down. Grab it from inside the derby cover hole and give it a good hard yank. Mine was a little stubborn last time I pulled it as well. | ||
| 2000m2 |
derby cover...is that the little "inspection cover"? Got all the shifter stuff off. | ||
| Firemanjim |
The derby cover is over the clutch and held on with 4 Torx screws.Have you disconnected clutch cable yet?Sounds like not.Have to do that before removing that side cover. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Is it stuck tight (completely rigid) or acting like it is spring loaded? Definately make sure the clutch cable is disconnected. If your primary tensioner is badly grooved (or broken up) it can wedge things in there as well. Try loosening the primary tensioner adjustment to give the chain as much slack as possible. And wiggle stuff  | ||
| 2000m2 |
I am getting a complete Torx set Monday morning because of the ones I have, none fit the clutch cover. I attempted getting the clutch cable out, but it didn't seem to want to come out. Just kept spinning after a certain point. | ||
| Captainkirk |
What is spinning? You should be adding free play to the adjuster under the rubber boot. Don't mess with the end at the primary cover. | ||
| Reepicheep |
you take apart the thing under the derby cover that the clutch cable ties into, its just one nut or so. Then the clutch cable comes out of that assembly (but gets left anchored into the primary cover. Just put the whole primary cover (with cable still attached) in a 5 gallon bucket beside the front wheel while you work on it. The manual describes everything clearly. | ||
| Captainkirk |
What Reep said. You don't even disconnect the clutch cable (threaded portion) from the primary cover; it's not necessary. Just be sure not to put any excess side pressure on the clutch cable. | ||
| 2000m2 |
I got the Torx bit that fits the derby cover, and I am having trouble with the screw/nut that is the clutch. I have been told that I need a special tool to relieve the pressure on the clutch in order to remove the screw/nut (the guy who wants to sell me the tool told me this). Any thoughts? | ||
| 2000m2 |
Got the primary cover off! Now I just need 2 huge sockets which I will pick up tomorrow morning and hopefully the new stator and regulator will be here tomorrow. Thank you guys for all of your help so far! I am definitely learning a lot here and that's a good thing. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good! Was the "special tool" just a set of snap ring plairs? Nothing you can't make from a cheap pair of needle nose and a grinder Any big enough piece of aluminum will work to make the locking bar. In a pinch, you can tangle a towel in there to bind things up, but the rigid locking tool works better. Ya drop the socket wrench into the pan full of drained tranny fluid yet? Might as well just go drop it in there and get it over with :\ | ||
| Reepicheep |
You also might get a hint as to the condition of your stator. With a good stator, the primary fluid smells like crap. With a bad stator, the primary fluid smells like burnt crap. Happy to help edited by reepicheep on June 28, 2004 | ||
| Captainkirk |
The sockets you'll need are; Primary sprocket-28mm six point deepwell Clutch basket- 30mm six point standard An impact wrench works wonders. Remember, the clutch basket threads are LEFT HAND! Aluminum bar stock works well for fabricating a lock tool. I posted pictures and dimensions a few weeks ago, if you can't find 'em in the archives let me know and I'll post again. You don't have to disassemble the clutch pack to remove it. Pull the snap ring and clutch adjustment stud/bearing, and the LEFT HAND THREAD nut is underneath. If you don't have a service manual get one now. Take it slow and follow the book. Some things you'll need for reassembly, if you don't have them now; Torque wrench that goes up to 200 ft/lbs. Red LocTite Good luck! |
