| Author | Message | ||
     S3windbreaker |
Hello all, I've been trying to get my clutch to stop slipping. It started at upper RPM only, over 7000rpm. I replaced clutch plates and it got way worse. Pulled the slave out and went through it several times. Checking for torn o ring and alignment. It had been replaced already but I purchased and installed a Oberon slave and have adjusted the spherical nut many times following procedure and forum post advise. and it is still slipping badly. I've pulled it apart down to the clutch plates, checked for the pin binding and re checked and bled several times. I also adjusted the spherical nut many times but still slips big time. Tried pushing the slave piston all the way in then threading the spherical nut and adjusting again. I'm using a pdf Buell service manual and have poured over every clutch history thread I can find. One thing I'm wondering is everyone torquing the nut that holds the clutch pin and the spherical nut to spec? If I torque the clutch pin nut to the spec of 113 inch lbs then it is locked against the diaphragm. There is only so many things that can cause this clutch slip, what am I missing ? I'm out of ideas. Can anyone shed some light please ? Thank you. | ||
| Stimbrell |
It sounds like you are doing everything right, a long shot but you haven't changed the oil and used one with friction modifiers because that will cause it, found that out the hard way when I picked up the oil meant for my Sportster by mistake. Good luck. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
I haven't thought of that. The oil is Lucas 20W50 with about 1000 miles on it. Thanks Stimbrell. Since I posted I've re bled and pushed the slave as far in as I could before running the spherical nut down. Tried backing off the nut 3/4 turn then 1 full turn and it still just slips immediately. It's also hard to get neutral now. Man I really want to get this fixed, been down 2 weeks and weather is great this time of year to ride. | ||
| Pwillikers |
I changed my oil to AMSOil Dominator 15W-50 based on a recommendation without checking the specs myself and the clutch started slipping. I dumped it and filled it with Rotella T6 which is JASO MA2 certified (good for wet clutches). It got better but not gone, It eventually took three successive oil changes in rapid succession with a little bit of riding in between for the slipping to totally abate. I rode around for like ten miles in between oil changes, enough to get the oil good and hot and circulate it throughout the clutch, but, avoided any slipping as to not wear the clutch plates. I also went nuts adjusting the spherical nut. I eventually assembled and torqued it exactly per the manual and as per the above, the new oil saved the day. Best of luck. (Message edited by pwillikers on March 24, 2023) | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Thanks for the info willikers. I found out the oil was changed to a different brand from what the original owner used for over 20k. I'm going to change it back. Did you torque the clutch pin nut also like the spherical nut ? The manual says to tighten the nut to the clutch release pin to 133 inch lbs. However if I do the pin is locked down and just negates having to use the hex to hold it when adjusting the spherical nut. When I took it apart the nut wasn't very tight. Wondering if everyone does this per spec. | ||
| Pwillikers |
I followed the manual for assembling the clutch and adjusting the spherical clutch etc. exactly and after all the oil changes the clutch was/is better than ever. I remember thinking that the nut didn't seem like it was tight enough but I just did as the manual said. IIRC I put some locktite on the threads but my memory could be faulty. EBR has some fantastic Buell Service videos like this one on clutch service: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUK5fbVtbOo | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Thanks very much Pwillikers Thats where I'm going this weekend.Right by the book. I checked out the video. Clear cut informative. Hope to have the power back and a grin on the chin soon. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Well..I tried to make it work again. By the book and with the EBR video. Torqued to spec. changed oil back to what the original owner used. Valvoline. Still slips badly. I rode it about 3 miles trying to keep it from slipping as best I could to see if it would get better. I've never had anything like this before. Sportster clutches, hydraulic car clutches. clutches on Fleet trucks I worked on,etc. Tonight I carb cleaned off the clutch plates and air dried. I'll soak them per the Buell service manual. Also in the manual under "clutch slips" is incorrect engine oil. Makes me wonder if all this is because of a different/wrong oil change. Thank you for any input or suggestions. I really want to get back in the wind on this machine. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Like Pwillikers it took three oil changes to fix mine when I put the wrong oil in. If you still have the clutch plates out there should be minimum thickness listed for the plates in the service manual which you could check. Good luck. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Thanks for the input Stimbrell. I'll check the thickness of those plates per the manual and change oil again. How long did you run the oil changes ? | ||
| Stimbrell |
About 25 miles, half an hour rides to get the oil fully up to temperature. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Make sure your oil is also rated for the STATOR. Look in your manual. The API ratings are in there. | ||
| Pwillikers |
Nothing's easy, particularly with this bike. Sorry for your difficulties. It's been a long time since I went through this. I think you've done everything I did which eventually fixed it for me. I do remember cleaning the clutch fiber disks with solvent multiple times which I didn't mention before. Assuming you're dealing with the same root cause, if the clutch pack height is within spec. and you follow the manual's reassembly exactly, I can't think of anything else that'll help. That and a bunch of clutch disk cleaning and oil/filter changes are what fixed it for me. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Thanks so much Guys I really value your input and knowledge on this. I cleaned the clutch plates and will reassemble with new API oil then test ride. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Well I re installed the cleaned clutch plates after wetting in the new oil, put everything back together/torqued per the service manual. Bled the Oberon clutch slave again and filled with oil. Rode about 15 miles I can very carefully make it to 4500-5000 rpm but slips after that and any throttle more than minimum the clutch immediately slips so I just babied it to not hurt the clutch plates. So frustrating. I just want to make a fix and enjoy this machine. I appreciate everyone's help. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Hey Guys, Just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. The latest attempt to get the clutch to stop slipping. I installed a brand new Clutch master cylinder assembly purchased from St. Paul Buell parts. Bled per procedure. Clutch still slips. The new oberon slave looks to be moving the same amount. Bummer as I'm making payments and bike down for almost 3 months. I was going to try a known aftermarket clutch plates. | ||
| Professorbarnhouse |
maybe replace the springs, or buy a complete clutch assembly on ebay and swap it out. There are a few for about $150. | ||
| S3windbreaker |
Thanks Professor Going to try new clutch plates and springs | ||
| S3windbreaker |
The R is fixed. Posting in hopes it can help another fellow rider/ enthusiast and to say thanks. I finally put up the cash and installed a Barnett clutch kit. This resolved the clutch slipping issue completely. The wrong oil that was previously used ruined the clutch plates. No amount of cleaning or adjustments helped, nor did the slave or master cyl. Brand new clutch plates was it. I am running Amsoil 15/50 MC oil and the springs Barnett supplied. Clutch lever effort is definitely more but not to bad with the Oberon slave. It was a small saga and expensive but I have some top shelf parts installed and the bike is ripping through the gears resulting in frequent adrenaline induced grins on the chin  I am really enjoying this well engineered machine. I've put a little over 1800 miles down in about 6 weeks. 80 miles round trip to work and extended high speed west Texas back road runs. It is definitely in its element. Thank you all who chimed in with help and advise. Ride On.. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
That's great news! Good deal on getting it fixed and back out on the road! |
