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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » 2001 S3 bogging on acceleration « Previous Next »

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96s2t
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2022 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2001 S3 stock/Buell pro series muffler/ham can oval air cleaner with 25,000 Kms. Bought this bike a year ago with a adjustable tuner box piggybacked on the stock ECM and wasn’t happy with the set up and sent my ECM to Tim at IDS to get the race tune that is matched to the PRO muffler I have. Shortly after that, it started to bogg under acceleration. I can get up to 60 mph but not quickly. Starts and idles like a champ. Fuel pump pressure tested after the fuel filter @49 pounds, AFV 100, TPS reset correctly, intake and throttle body seals changed and checked from the inside to ensure the gasket was in place, professionally rebuilt fuel injectors and Orings, new SE coil,wires and plugs and more plugs, new O2 sensor, new engine temp sensor, new AFV sensor, new ham can air filter, new battery, cleaned ground to frame and battery connections, cleaned ground at voltage regulator, charging system is working, tested TPS with ohm meter and has smooth operation to WOT.
The bike is in good condition and not leaking or burning oil, always serviced and never abused. There is no frayed wires on the injectors or any ‘creative wiring’ on the bike.
Yesterday I removed the ‘new’ injectors, tested them and found no difference in the flow in comparison to the ‘old’ original set. They do not leak either. Pulled the throttle body and checked that the new seals where in place inside the intake manifolds. Sent Tim at IDS a copy of the EEPROM file and he confirmed that the map was correct for my bike and there was no issues.
The bike has no warnings or codes.
Today I button it all up and test ride it.
Am I missing anything else?
I need input from X1/S3 owners
Is there an issue with corrosion on a wire connector on the S3?
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96s2t
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2022 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just took it for a ride and there is no difference. Starts,idles and rides great if you don’t give it too much throttle too fast. I am going to remove the muffler and run it without to see if the acceleration improves. I think the muffler back pressure might be adjustable inside. If not I think I will take it to a local dyno tuner.
IT SHOULDN’T BE THIS HARD!
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Akbuell
Posted on Wednesday, November 02, 2022 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just throwing stuff out there . . . .

Bogging like that is usually a fuel mixture issue. What I would do, before removing the muffler, would be to remove the intake stuff from the throttle body out. Take the bike to a safe place, get up to speed, then go wide open on the throttle. As the engine boggs, try partially covering the throttle body intake with your free hand.

If revs go up, you have a lean mixture. If they get worse, the mixture is rich.
Given what you have tried, if the test indicates a lean mixture, might do to carefully check the throttle plate shaft. While (Very) rare, they have failed in the past, leading to weird performance issues.

Or, have you tested the fuel pressure at speed? Maybe a pressure valve or fuel pump filter issue at high fuel volumes?

Hope this helps, Dave
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96s2t
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2022 - 12:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Problem finally fixed. I removed the muffler and it accelerates perfectly. The Pro series baffle was missing it’s bolt and slid out and was rattling around on the can and plugged most of the outlet with the packing. Welding up the broken nut and then off to the races. Never thought to check the muffler.


You can see the missing bolt hole that secures the baffle on the top of the pipe and the shiny bits where the end diffuser plate was rubbing against inside the end cap.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2022 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent!!! Glad you found the problem. And thank you for letting us know. Aids the community knowledge.
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96s2t
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2022 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have been working on this issue for a few months and just took it for granted that the muffler was not the problem. That is why I looked at every other possible problem that it could be. I ran out of possible suspects when I had Tim at IDS go over the race tune in the ECM and check it over for errors or modifications. He found none. The only place left was the muffler and it was obvious when I took it apart to find the baffle had been blocking the exhaust hole and choking it off. The summer is over but I still have a collector plate insurance on it so I will ride it with pleasure on sunny days.
I should note that anyone that runs this muffler to be sure to check that the bolt (on the outside of the muffler body) that secures the baffle in place is secure. If the baffle comes loose it will plug the exhaust exit and cause rich like conditions over 3,000 rpm.


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