| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
So, I've been fighting a serious cough/sneeze/stall issue since replacing the stator (the bike, not my allergies!). Cold starts it would practically die it would cough so badly. Cruise throttle was a constant hesitate/sneeze situation unless I grabbed some more throttle and got past "that" spot. On a whim, I swapped the IAT sensor Sunday night. Had one on the parts bike, figured it can't hurt. Squirt of dielectric in the connector, plugged it in, and Monday morning? Ran like a champ, nice and smooth. Today, too. Victory! | ||
| Ourdee |
Yay | ||
| Rays |
Good news - must file that away in the 'when it bites me' drawer. | ||
| Tootal |
Great news!! Never heard of that failing so good to know! I guess if I hook up ecm spy I can compare the IAT with the Head temp sensor. They should read close to the same on a cold engine. Thanks Ratbuell. | ||
| Hughlysses |
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| Lytningrydr02 |
This is good to know. Having the same issues with coughing and sputtering during cruising speed. Grab the throttle and it powers thru it. Pulled my battery to check and clean my grounds and found my battery had pinched the wiring harness tie wrapped to the frame. Green/yellow wire tan/white wires had rubbed thru the insulation. Wanted confirmation that this would cause the sputtering. Was at my wits end trying to track this intermittent problem.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yeah, another sideways "repair" is that my speed sensor now works like it should after my stator replacement. I'd replaced the sensor before, for a bouncing needle around 70 (cruising speed, naturally). Same issue with the new sensor. Whatever. I go by the Garmin for speed and trip odometer now, so no biggie. Well, while I was replacing the stator I redid the stator AC connector by the front pulley, and ended up jockeying that rats nest of wiring around some. Now, my speedo works fine. Only guess is, the speed sensor wires were too close to either the AC wires or the r/r's 12v output wires, making it act wonky. I managed to move things around and put them in the "right" place (totally by accident), and now...it works. (shrug) I'll take it. | ||
| Ratbuell |
...and the IAT is still working like a champ  | ||
| Sagehawk |
wanted to share as part of overview once or twice a year, i would get Uellymae out of garage and keep in shade. shoot a laser thermometer at fuell cell. read temp in C. hook up to spy to check what iat, clt, and fuell cell had in common. over the years , the three have been with in 6 degrees c. That only shares cold temps and possibe threshhold shifts on sensors. I have felt secure that these sensors were operating correctly. now, once motor fires up and everything goes dynamic in changing readings and what the ecm is seeing, all bets are off. I havent really heard of a iat being bad. This backs up what Tootal does on his bike for a timely maintenance item. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've had it happen on my '90s turbo cars - this is (relatively speaking) OLD tech. IATs and TPS's are common on those cars, so I keep (literally) a drawer full of spares. Early, MAP based EFI systems with single-O2 non-wideband feedback...sound familiar? I figured I'd swap the IAT first since it was easy to do. If it hadn't worked, the TPS was next. Every day it runs better though, I think it also had to "clear its throat" after sitting for basically a year and a half... | ||
| Tootal |
I rode out the other day on the Uly and noticed at a constant speed it would miss occasionally. It seemed it was at a certain throttle position which had me thinking tps. On the way home it ran fine. So I'm wondering if there's a dirty spot on the tps and just riding it cleaned it off? Either way I"m thinking I might get a tps. I can't remember which year used the Mustang part that's easily available. If it's the 07 part then I might have to change my throttle shaft so I can use the alternate pin location for the tps. Funny the guy who makes the shafts has never changed his! As soon as the Harley is functional again I'll play with the Uly. Right now it's my only 2 wheeler! | ||
| Smorris |
and we all have benefited from you providing those replacement shafts, be it for the parts box or already installed. THANK YOU | ||
| Tootal |
You're welcome. It was a fun project! | ||
| Ratbuell |
You can test the TPS if you have an old needle-display multimeter. Simply set it for resistance (ohms) and hook to the ground and data pins. Rotate the TPS and you should get a clean needle sweep. Any drops or jumps, you got a bad spot. Works for any potentiometer (which is all the TPS is in this case - in other words, a "volume knob"). | ||
| Tootal |
Volume knobs can be cleaned with the proper electrical cleaner. Probably don't have a way into a tps to do that but you're right. I don't have an old needle display meter anymore. I usually don't throw anything away. I mean I still have a Dwell Meter for setting ignition points! It must have broken. |
