| Author | Message | ||
     Joshboyz |
I just got an 06' ulysses buell, less than 40k mileage. Initially I noticed that the RPM gauge works only when you twist the handle to the left. I cleaned out the ground wires under the headlamp. However issues persists. Normally when riding through traffic, I Rev to create awareness so other drivers will notice I'm behind or trying to get pass them. However on this bike when I do this constantly I start getting weird feedbacks, on clear road. It feels like I have hit redline as the bike would not move. I have to turn off bike for about 30min to cool off before all is working fine. Then also I get red light blinking constantly and my speed drops. When I slow down and downshift.. The Red light stops. Here is a video https://youtu.be/NSr7SbtIjV0 I do not have buelltooth to read codes. However I'm expecting one this week. | ||
| Teeps |
I believe you are experiencing skip-spark. This happens when the rear head gets too hot. Or more likely the ECM has cracked solder connections. Here's a couple of links:with pictures. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/809483.html?1500137318 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/726411.html?1334338510 | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you Teeps. I'll look into the ECM later. However before I go breaking into ECM, how can I resolve issues around the rear head when it gets too hot. I thought the FAN was supposed to suck out the hot air. Pardon me if my question are not right. | ||
| Lew360 |
You might want to check that your ECM isn't cracking where the connectors plug in. My Uly's tach would jump like that when the ECM cracked and failing. | ||
| Hughlysses |
If the cylinder head temperature sensor exceeds a certain value, the bike goes into "skip spark" mode and the check engine light flashes. This is supposed to continue until the engine cools down. So either the bike is actually getting too hot, or the ECM is faulty and thinks the engine is getting too hot. The main thing that can make one run hot is a failed fan, but yours seems to be running alright and if it was bad, the check engine light would stay on. The only other obvious possibility is low oil, so check that (but DON'T overfill). The fact that the tach is acting up too (as Lew360 experienced) tends to point in the direction of a bad ECM. Just remove the two screws that mount it under the seat and look for cracks in the plastic potting compound on the bottom and around the two wiring harness connectors. If it is cracked, that means it probably has internal soldering cracks. I believe someone here has actually fixed one by digging out the potting material, reflowing the solder joints, and then repotting it, but that's probably a PITA. I'd imagine you can find a used ECM for your 06 pretty cheap ($100?), so if yours is cracked that's probably the easiest way to fix it. If you go that route, make sure the seat bottom isn't pressing against the ECM. Many people have just relocated the ECM by leaving the bolts out and moving it forward a few inches so the seat can't "pinch" it, and just leaving it loose there. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I just re-read your original post. Tach only working when bars are turned to one side is likely a broken ground in the wiring harness around the steering neck. This was a common issue on 06’s. Sometimes a ground lug breaks off here and sometimes it’s a broken ground wire buried in the wiring harness. It’ll take some fiddling to find it but that’s a good place to start trouble-shooting. If you find and fix that, it’s possible all your issues will go away. If you fix a broken ground and the tach issue goes away but the running issue persists, then look at the ECM. | ||
| Smorris |
IIRC, the ground wire affects both the tach AND the speedo. also my experience was repairing at the steering head, then later also had to dig into the loom at cold solder joints | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thanks Everyone, I took off the headlamps again. Tried to check wire harness. The RPM has stopped working while riding. Only works when handle bar positioned to a specific angle. I guess I'll have to work with Manual to trace the exact wires for the RPM. I also have an 09 Xb9sx ECM. Can this work for replacement? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I also have an 09 Xb9sx ECM. Can this work for replacement? No, it has to be for a 2004-2007 XB12. It may be possible to have that ECM reflashed so it’ll work on your bike. IDS, the original manufacturer, offers that service for $100: https://idspd.com/xcart/buell-xb12-04-07-performan ce-ecm.html That would actually give you a better than stock ECM. | ||
| Johnshore |
Wire harness problems are common. Sweeping handlebars left, right would reset everything when it happened to me. A link http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/695594.html?1356626652 | ||
| Johnshore |
Wire harness problems are common. Sweeping handlebars left, right would reset everything when it happened to me. A link http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/695594.html?1356626652 | ||
| Griffmeister |
If you need an ECM, it has to be for ‘07 or older. The ‘08 and up models have different connectors with more pins so you physically would not be able to plug it in. That being said, I agree with the others to check the ground on the steering head, somewhat easy to get at with the bars fully to one side. Also remember, the wire insulation may be intact, but inside the actual wire is broken. A gentle tug on the wire will either be firm (good) or have some stretch (bad). | ||
| Teeps |
Speaking of grounds: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/465647.html | ||
| Smorris |
common cold solder joints are located further downstream from multi-ground, at steering head. left side of frame toward front there is plastic loom cover, that is general area for problem; i think, 2 more cold solder joints. | ||
| Rays |
The tacho jumping was the subject of a very old post I have linked below and while anything is possible given the age of old X's now, it might help you because the pictures of where the tach connects to the earlier ECM are still active. Given your issue seems related to handlebar movement you might end up chasing the tach connection (pink wire) and ground back to the ECM. I don't know about the later X's but on the early ones the instrument ground wasn't one of the troublesome ones connected to the lower steering head. From memory that group has grounds for the flasher relay, the horn, the front +12v aux connector and the headlight (Gnd4 & Gnd5). I thought I had recorded where all of the Gnd points were physically on the early X but if I did I have misplaced it. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/558790.html A dodgy connection at the ECM is possibly able to be quickly induced by wriggling the harness there with the seat removed and engine running (wriggling, not wrenching). BTW - I solved the ECM plug issue by placing a 1/2" thick rubber block on the top of the ECM with double sided tape so something that you could do super quick without any major surgery as an isolation step. If your X doesn't have some sort of mitigation regarding the ECM connectors it will eventually bite so an ounce of prevention here is well worth the effort even if it isn't currently your immediate issue. Do a search on B,B&D for 'ECM Relocation' and you should get heaps of ideas. | ||
| Rays |
I looked back through my old Buell photos and found pictures of both the ECM and instrument cluster connections for the tacho. It is a single pink wire connected to pin 14 on the instrument cluster plug. The instrument cluster plug will require removing the flyscreen and from memory that plug doesn't have retaining clips.  This runs back to pin 12 on the black ECM plug.  If you have access to a multimeter then it would be straight forward to identify any intermittent breaks in this wire. Step 1 would be to disconnect the battery ground (the ECM does have a direct +12Volt connection so I always avoid any plugging/unplugging unless the battery is disconnected). The ECM connectors have two plastic clips that need to be depressed and the plugs can be quite firm to remove. Because your tacho issues are reproduced by moving the handlebars the most likely place to have a break is where the front loom passes through a loom guide on the left hand front of the steering head as noted by other posts.  I wouldn't think this issue is ground related because the instrument cluster has a single ground that would impact the speedo as well but if you do want to trace this it is connected from the instrument cluster pin 13 (beside the tacho wire) to the ECM System Ground B (pin 11 on the black ECM connector). These are spliced in the loom somewhere and are connected to the chassis at Gnd1. Gnd1 & Gnd3 is the group of ground wires at the front Left Hand side of the battery box ( I have a picture that will not upload to this post for some reason). (Message edited by Rays on May 29, 2022) | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you folks. After lots of drinking cold water. I took my ECM apart and went as fsr as resoldering the connection. I took the bike for a ride.. And no awful blinking light.. However the weather was cool and there were not much traffic. On my way home something strange happened. Bike was running terribly bad. Goes off while riding... Sometimes i get no response when I throttle.. Then a backfire at the exhaust. I managed to get home. Today I got a Buelltooth device.. Hooked it up and got error 11 TPS too low/short to Ground. I also checked AFV and it was reading 115%. I tried doing a live test. By starting the bike and taking a live reading. See video https://youtu.be/WJ6rIds6odY | ||
| Joshboyz |
Thank you Ray.. Your post was well detailed. I will get a multimeter in the morning.. I removed the flyscreen. However still could not locate the pink wire. I'm not so big on wiring systems and it's so hard to get someone who knows their way around Buell. Less than 5 buell in my country. 2 in my state... And I own both. | ||
| Rays |
Big job to re-solder the ECM pins - well done. The pink wire for the tacho is pin 14 on the the instrument cluster plug (hidden under the rubber cover shown with the yellow arrow below:  The pins in the connector on the instruments are quite small so I would make some adapters similar to those shown in the next photo. Some pieces of single strand insulated wire might do the job - you want something that is a snug fit in the female socket without spreading the internal contact.  If you can connect your multimeter (set to the ohms range) between pin 14 on the instrument connector and pin 12 on the black ECM plug you should see a very low resistance reading (should be less than 1 ohm normally I would expect). Once you get a stable connection at both ends then you should be able to move the handlebars/wiggle the wiring loom and see the resistance go either very high / open circuit when you find the bad spot. For your TPS error I would have close look at the associated wiring and look for any worn/bare spots that might give an intermittent/random short to ground as a first step. Ping me a PM if you want any additional help if you need to. | ||
| Joshboyz |
After several conversations with Rays I was finally able to get the RPM to work. Just like Ray predicted. The wire broke at the solders joints. |
