| Author | Message | ||
     96s2t |
Doing some searching here on the Stenzil brace for the tubers. Is there any benefit to fit it to a 2001 S3?  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
The main benefit is that it's supposed to help avoid the front motor mount from breaking be keeping that isolator mounting bolt from moving front to back. The main reason I always consider trying one is because a lot of people say it really cuts down on the bikes vibrations. The reason I haven't been convinced to put out the money on one yet is because I've also seen a lot of people saying it made their vibrations worse, which is the last thing my bike needs. | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
On my '01 X1, yes I did notice more vibration but it is cheap insurance to keep the front motor mount from breaking. Which would you deal with, a little vibration or a rollback service 200mi from home? My Buell has never let me down, wish I could say the same for my Bourget...lol | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'd gladly deal with a little vibration, unfortunately I'm usually fighting off numb fingers by the end of my 25-30 minute commute, especially once the cold weather gets here and I'm squeezing my heated grips extra tight to try to keep my hands warm. I'm not sure I can spare any extra vibrations on this thing. Luckily I'm never more than 15 miles away from home, so the worst I'd have to deal with is calling my wife to bring the truck and the ramp. (Message edited by upthemaiden on October 06, 2021) | ||
| 89rs1200 |
I have Stenzil bars on all my tuber Buells. They noticeably REDUCE vibration at all RPM and I hope help reduce bolt breakage. That said, all motor mount bolts found broken on my Buells were the original bolts. When the old bolts came out they all showed signs of rust. Have yet to have a replacement bolt break. Stenzil bar or newer better bolts? Who is to say. Just happy for no further breakages. | ||
| Buell3some |
I have never heard of these stenzil bars until about a month ago when my buddy showed me that his M2 Cyclone had one installed before he bought it. Does anyone know if there is a source or vendor for these or are they custom made? I am replacing the isolator on my S3T this weekend for the 2nd time in 41K with the last updated isolator kit that was available. I would consider a stenzil brace if i could find one. | ||
| _buelligan_ |
Engineered velocity makes a really great version of it that I have and he sells them on eBay. He’s on here every so often, I believe his name on Badweb is Red93Stang. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143983477704?hash=item218 61583c8:g:tpcAAOSwL7VWnaP6 | ||
| Buell3some |
Thank you buelligan. I just placed an order through his website. | ||
| Jayvee |
Complaints about vibration seem odd coming from Buell riders, it's a feature not a bug. My eyeballs used to shake in their sockets at traffic lights until I turned my idle down to 900 rpm. Now I have single-fire ignition and it seems a bit smoother, but still sounds like the engine is falling apart (and it may be...) I got a Stenzel bar so long ago I bought it from the actual Mr. Stenzel in Germany. But I never quite got around to installing it yet. I was waiting to install it when the front isolater fails, but it just hasn't.  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'm a little late since you already said you ordered one, but for anyone else interested I know there are also instructions/dimensions on the forum somewhere for making your own. I believe it said to use 3/8" aluminum, so if you want to do it nicely you'll probably need access to a bending brake. I'm sure if you're not worried about it being pretty you could also put it in a vise and beat on it a bit to get the bend to the right angle. I also saw someone make some out of thinner steel and then just welded a spine down the length of it to keep it from flexing. | ||
| Jramsey |
Don't check very often anymore since I sold my tubers but here is an old thread from many moons ago about the brace. For those that have better google fu than I, member Gowindward who posted in that thread made some and gave the dimensions for hole placement and the bend angle. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/396773.html?1224722734 (Message edited by Jramsey on October 15, 2021) (Message edited by Jramsey on October 16, 2021) | ||
| Victory |
I bought one. Its a nice piece and comes with a small spacer that replaces the larger spacer on the top link. I should be getting to that area soon. its getting cold. Spring will be Buell Season again. | ||
| Red93stang |
Still going strong, started making these 11-12 years ago. Have them on every test mule we have, new and old style mounts. We have never had a broken FS9 bolt or mount since install. We have also never had a customer report back with anything different either. As for vibrations, almost all reports have said that it reduces vibrations at speed. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"As for vibrations, almost all reports have said that it reduces vibrations at speed." Do you notice anything consistent at low rpms? My S1 is my commuter so it spends a good bit of time between idle and 3k rpm, which is where I really feel it. | ||
| Buell3some |
Red93stang- Thank you for making this fine aluminum item for us Tuber owners and for the fast shipping. I tried to install mine a couple nights ago but was unsuccessful so far. On my 02 S3T the main wire harness runs up the right side, then crosses to the left side under the tank just behind the isolator, then exits through the left forward area of the frame. Basically its in the path the the brace needs to be. I attempted to make it fit by cutting zipties and moving things around but could not come up with a way that seems safe. I'm not sure how much i want to chance disrupting the 20 yr old harness and possibly cause future electrical issues. I re-assembled the bike for now so i get a few more rides in before the weather gets bad here in the northeast. I may try to install this again after the season is over. If i decide to return it i will email you directly. Hopefully a few of other badwebbers may have some ideas for harness clearance. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Upthemaiden, Across the RPM range, the Stenzel bar reduces the vibration. After installation the motor will still vibrate like a paint shaker from 900RPM through 3000RPM. After that it smooths out a lot. I feel this transition in my body and use it to inform me it is time to shift. NOTE: Vibration remaining the same or nearly the same above 3000RPM indicates a broken front motor mount bolt at the head!! Never accelerate hard below 3000RPM!!! Doing that causes too much pressure on the crank needle bearing taking the load at that instant, during the start of the power stroke. This bearing will crush and release bits of metal that then destroys the rest of the crank needle bearings. Just do not do it!! Accelerating hard below 3000RPM can destroy these crank bearings in less than a week. Buell3some, Those wires will go over the top of the Stenzel bar. Yes, it is a bit of a struggle getting the bar over the rubber motor mount. Try putting the bar onto the rubber before attempting to mount at the back. Also, while installing, have the mount bolt removed or below the top surface of the rubber mount. Doing this, the bar will go on. I find the carb. cables fit best under the Stenzel bar. FYI: All my Buells are over 23 years old and the wire insulation is still flexible. Suggest while the tank is off, pull all the connectors apart, spray them with contact cleaner, coat them lightly with White Lithium Grease. Have seen on all my Buells up to 0.9 volt drop across the ignition connector and/or switch. Should be 14v to 14.2v running with battery fully charged. This can lead to alternator or voltage regulator failures. If the voltage drop is in the switch, take 20 minutes working WD-40, (Trivia; Water Dispersant formula #40) into the switch. In the switch, WD-40 will slowly work its way down to the electrical connections to clean them. That is what WD-40 was designed to do. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on October 21, 2021) (Message edited by 89rs1200 on October 21, 2021) | ||
| Buell3some |
89rs1200- Thanks for the tips. I actually did try putting the bar on the mount first with the bolt removed. It looks like i will need to get a longer bolt though. It didn't look like there was enough threads left to get into the lock portion of the nut. As far as the harness goes i may be able to pass it over the top of the bar however the left forward edge of the bar pushes fairly hard against the mass of wires at the left of the isolator where it exits the frame. I will also need to install a longer fuel line to gain clearance at the rear near the tie bar. That's not a big deal but the harness will take some time to tweak. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Buell3some, You do not need a longer bolt. However, there are two types of rubber motor mounts: ~ Please reference this photo; http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/670710.jpg http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/776962.html?1453392502 ~ New style rubber motor mount is flat on the top. ~ Old style rubbers center, around the bolt hole, is higher than the rest of the of the mount. For this the Stenzel bar requires a counter sunk hole. I suspect your Stenzel bar does not have this countersink. Reference; http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/762602.html?1431529413 Concerning the wiring, just realize my S3 are carburetor and yours is fuel injected, so wiring is different and my route differently. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on October 21, 2021) | ||
| Buell3some |
89rs1200- I was in the midst of installing the new style flat top isolator when i saw this post about the stenzel bar. It was an updated HD kit that i ordered about 6 years ago. Part# L1501.8 that came with all new mounting hardware. It's the same as the 16207-79D single isolator. I ordered the stenzel bar accordingly so correct it is not countersunk. It looked to me that the new center bolt that came in the kit may be a touch too short. The original larger bolt would probably be OK lengthwise. That and the fuel line are minor issues to address. The mass of wires in the harness will take some brainstorming. I rode the bike yesterday and can already tell a difference in the newer style stiffer isolator. I can imagine it will be even better once i get the stenzel bar installed. | ||
| Victory |
Yeah I think we are going to need a longer bolt for that. Im about to man. set timing and clean up for rocker installs. What is the problem you found with the fuel line? I am installing the refurbished Bosch Fuel Injectors. I hope they pass tests so i can rebuild the fuel pump. | ||
| Buell3some |
Victory- my fuel line is just a smidge to short is all. Originally it went under the stabilizer link. I looks like it will have to go over top of the stencil bar when i get it installed but it was too tight when i test fit it. | ||
| Victory |
I loosed up the ISO...have to do this to center the iso and get the bolt through. This bolt came in the official HD Remedy kit new iso style. Instructios say to put the supplied washer - assuming the big fender washer HD sent with kit....on top of the brace and then the nut. Ill run the nut down and see if there is room for a washer. Im guessing most installs are not using the big washer HD sent. A washer didnt came from Velocity. Just the small spacer for the rear point.   Thought Id post this up since no one else has. (Message edited by victory on November 09, 2021) | ||
| Victory |
I got this cranked back up leaving the big fender washer out. Then I found that my battery has bad cell. |
