| Author | Message | ||
     Super_dooper |
Hey guys, I have to repair my cylinder after I noticed a crack on the engine mount. I could probably repair it in place but it's going to be easier to repair it with the heads removed. I'm thinking if I do remove it, it might be worthwhile checking over everything and replacing all the gaskets. I'm not looking for any real upgrades more of a freshen up. It's a 98 M2 Cyclone with about 78,000ks on the clock. Is there anything worth doing while I'm in there, pistons / rings? And if there are any recommendations for gasket kits. Could I use a standard sport evo kit from that era? I believe this was the lightning heads so I wasn't sure if those gaskets would work. Thanks in advance. Cheers SD | ||
| Falloutnl |
I have nothing but good experiences with cometic gasket kits. If the base gaskets are leaking (and given the pretty decent mileage) you could consider buying a 1250 of 1275 kit, cylinders/pistons. But I don't know how much you're in the mood for larger investments. As for the motor mount itself... I think in general people recommend against repairing that particular item. I think it's wiser to replace it entirely. The isolator that's in there tends to wear out anyway. Intake seals/gaskets on the manifold between carbs/heads are worth replacing. The one between carb and manifold as well. You could freshen up the heads by replacing valve guide seals and reseating valves / cleaning out gunk. There's also those umbrella things somewhere in there that might like replacin'. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Agree with what Falloutnl said, except for the weld comment. Welding skills vary from person to person. A good weld should be stronger than the original metal area. Additionally that area must be machined back to original profile so the mount fits properly. Know someone with enough skills to do it right? I like Genuine James gaskets. They have standard and premium grade gaskets. Cometic gaskets are also great. Try not to buy stock. They tend to fail earlier than Genuine James or Cometic. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on August 05, 2021) | ||
| _buelligan_ |
Welding and machining a cast mount would cost more or be around the same as buying a better billet aluminum piece from Hammer Performance, Twin Motorcycles, or there are a few others out there. I agree with Fallout and use Cometic myself. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Cost of a good weld and machining, had not considered that. good point _buelligan_ | ||
| Tpehak |
Do not buy extra displacement kits. Just buy stock cylinders and install pig tails so you can use any gasket kit fits your cylinders and the cylinders will never leak again. With bigger displacement kit you will not be able to install cylinder base pigtails. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/804303.html?1625035438 | ||
| Victory |
Sure and that assumes the top end wont have to come apart in 45k miles for the bottom end. Its a cycle.....  | ||
| Normthenomad |
I'm impressed. If you ever decide to make this as a kit let me know.Thanks, Norm | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I was going to recommend the pig tails. they seem like a cheap easy modification to help avoid oil leaks. I wasn't aware you couldn't use them with a bigger top end kit, which I'd definitely like to get someday, so you'd have to decide for yourself which sounds more appealing. | ||
| 34nineteen |
If you're going to install new rings, make sure to measure your ring gap carefully and at several spots in the bore. If the gap is a little too tight, you could be back in there much sooner than later and the job will be much more expensive. I've never used the pig tails, but if I was going to run a stock setup, I'd consider running them as well. If you're hearing excessive clicking, you may also want to inspect your rocker shafts to see if they are rotating, and install rocker lockers if so. If they're not rotating, they will probably be fine without. THey're about $40-ish and easy to install. | ||
| Victory |
My top end was always quiet esp compared to the usual description but a Race ECM and the right oil does help. 20 50 Mobil 1 Vtwin here. I am installing the locks. Cant wait to see what that does. | ||
| 34nineteen |
You can see the marks on the bolts from the rocker shafts hitting the bolts as they rotate back and forth. The only disadvantage to them that I can see is that its going to be a pain if you ever need to pull the rocker shafts out of the rocker box. | ||
| Super_dooper |
Thanks guys for all the info, I guess there are a plenty of options. I did think about a bigger kit but I've just picked up a billet engine mount for the stock heads and I don't think the XB heads would have the same mount? I've never done a top end rebuild but I'm wanting to give it a go, so forgive the noob questions. I've got access to a local machine shop if I need some work done but was hoping to try and do as much as I can myself. Would a kit like this for the XL sporty be ok? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/283993774952?chn=ps&mk evt=1&mkcid=28 Cheers SD | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Gasket kit looks to have everything needed. Highly recommend you have the valves and valve seats cut and ground by the machinist, unless you have done this before. Chances are there is some pitting which needs to be properly cut and ground out. With a good torque wrench, manual, patience, and you are mechanically inclined, you can do it. Please use new front motor mount bolts and washers! They are designed to be used just once. With age they will be weak. From experience by many here, you do not want these two bolts breaking later. Search Badweb for other sources, 7/16-14 X 2-3/4 hex hd, zinc, Gr. 9, or use these part numbers; 3436Y AA0722.1CBZ Front Isolator, bolt (Kit - 2 washers & bolts) Washer = BA0714.3Z To get the frame off the motor, recommend: two people, engine hoist or hang frame from ceiling, pallet and floor jack to move engine around, much patience. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on August 05, 2021) (Message edited by 89rs1200 on August 05, 2021) | ||
| _buelligan_ |
Correct about the motor mounts, the XB and newer rubber mounted Sportster heads have a slightly narrower mounting width on the bolts so the mounts will be different. F911 was the original brand of bolts but there are only a handful of people still carrying them and last I looked the most reputable place to buy them says that F911 will be discontinuing them once the run is out. There was an announcement somewhere on the interweb of a counterfeit company making fake f911 bolts and selling them on eBay or Amazon, not sure so I bought mine from Allen’s Fasteners or specialty-fasteners. | ||
| Victory |
I just picked up a set at St Paul HD Buell. Nothing wrong with my old ones. they are only ten years old. | ||
| Super_dooper |
Thanks guys, yes I've picked up a new iso and mounting bolts. I just need to remove the one that's snapped off. Cheers for the advice, no doubt I'll have a few more questions once I get the heads off. SD |
