| Author | Message | ||
     Super_dooper |
So I was attending a function over the weekend only to come out to my Buell M2 on it's side. After further inspection I noticed the front engine mount had snapped and I could no longer unlock my fork steering lock. I've done some sifting through the forums and it seems there are some good aftermarket cnc options available for the front engine mount. Question is for those that have replaced this have you also replaced the isolator hardware? And for the steering lock I contacted a parts supplier and it seems harley are no longer making this lock. Does anyone know of a third party solution for this or should I just remove it and use some other locking device? thanks guys SD | ||
| Victory |
Dont sweat the steering lock. Remove it. Use a disk lock. in fact alot of the lock beds on the forks are aluminum and easy to defeat. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Curious if someone knocked it over which damaged the steering lock, or if someone was trying to kick the bars to break the lock, and dropped the bike in the process. I agree I'd just skip the steering lock and spend the money on a disc lock. I've seen too many videos of guys breaking steering locks with nothing but their foot to trust them. I've still used them on other bikes paired up with a disc lock, but on my Buell I'm hesitant to even use it, worried someday I won't be able to get it unlocked and I'll be stuck in the parking lot going in circles after work. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Falling over while locked can damage the rod the lock is connected to. These dents prevent the lock from turning. Will need to just keep rocking it back and forth till you can get it loose. Other bad option is to drill out the lock. Please, if you do leave it out fill the hole with something as this is were all your steering head grease lives. There are aftermarket from engine mounts available. Others here can direct you. Sorry, I am at work and have time just for this quick reply. | ||
| Super_dooper |
Thanks guys for the replies, I think I just might settle on a disc lock and plug up the hole. @Upthemaiden - Ha yeah I have that same concern my memory of remembering keys is not great the best of times. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Same here. I've also had a couple incidents in the past of forgetting I had a disc lock, which doesn't end well, but I'm sure is amusing to watch for the other people in the parking lot... Get a lock that comes with one of those coiled bungee cords that reaches from the lock to your handlebar so you can't forget it's on. I also keep the lock key on a mini carabiner and clip it to that cord when it's in my bag, and then clip it to my bike key when the lock is on. That way I know it's locked and don't lose the key. The other unfortunate mistake I've made(twice) was pulling into a parking spot front end first, forgetting the lock, and then trying to roll the bike back out of the spot when you hear a big *crunch* as your disc lock smashes through your front fender. Now I make sure I only park facing out of parking spots when the lock is on, and keep the lock as close as I can to the caliper so if I happen to forget, I can only make it a few inches before it hits the caliper and stops the bike. | ||
| 34nineteen |
The steering head lock cylinders should be still available (probably not from HD). I found one for my 97 S1 from a BMW and Vespa application. The S1 one attached from the left side, and I think the M2 is on the right. I personally think the HD style steering neck locks are a bit hokey, but I replaced mine anyhow. Is it like this? https://www2.vtwinmfg.com/front-fork-steering-head -lock.html Hammer and Twin Motorcycles offer CNC mounts. I think Screamer may have stock ones for sale as well. If you choose to go with the Twin motorcycles mount, they normally ship via DHL to the US which is normally pretty quick and inexpensive. I've found their shipping prices and times to be on par or even slightly better than St. Paul. Be sure to purchase NEW and CORRECT bolts and washers . (Message edited by 34nineteen on June 16, 2021) | ||
| Super_dooper |
Haha @Upthemaiden yeah I've done the exact thing. The other thought I had was installing an m.unit with their alarm system. Although it's probably something I'll do when I need to pull out the engine. Thanks for that info @34nineteen it does look like those billet ones are the best option. I'm in OZ and shipping is $$. I think that stem lock might be a little different I'll hopefully get around to dropping the front end and removing it this weekend so I'll be able to work out what I need. Cheers | ||
| 34nineteen |
I bought the Hammer Performance one. I sort of remember my M2 used a barrel style cylinder on the RH side. I think it is only held in by a "roll pin" on the side. You may be able to knock the pin out, remove the cylinder and a locksmith may have a line on a replacement. I'd be surprised if the lock wasnt used on HD models at some point and someone wasnt making a reproduction, or there was some cross reference. Thats how I discovered a replacement for my S1. But, like the others have mentioned, it may be better to just use a disc lock and just plug the hole. If someone really wants your bike, a lock isnt going to stop anyone. | ||
| _buelligan_ |
The Harley equivalent is 45680-90. If you take the plastic cover off your key there will be 4 digits, that is your specific key code for your bike. If you go to any Harley dealer they can order that lock with your 4 digits and takes around 2 weeks to get them. Costs around $60 and comes with 2 keys. If you need an ignition switch, you can use the same lock as a late 90's to early 2000's Dyna but will have to extend the wires, solder or change the connector. The barrel ignition switches are the same, they just change the length of wires or connector/pin configuration for different model | ||
| Super_dooper |
Thanks @34nineteen yeah the hammer one looks pretty nice. Nice idea with the locksmith I'll see if it's in a salvageable condition when I get it out. Not sure if it could have damaged the stem? Thanks for the @_buelligan_ that part looks similar to what I'll need. Too bad the dyna ignition isn't the barrel type then it would be an easy fit. Cheers SD | ||
| _buelligan_ |
All the dyna's ignition switches are a barrel type but the one that matches tube frame Buells is from the late 90's to early 2000s dyna models minus the wideglide which also uses barrel type but its the huge console type. Part number 71421-90B is the switch and steering lock combo that matches the Tube Frame Buells but as I said before you may have to extend the wires and/or change the pin configuration on the connector, I have seen a thread on here where someone else did it, but they were impatient and just hack/butt spliced theirs on. You can order those with your Buell key code or just order it as is and they'll send you a random key code for the set. | ||
| _buelligan_ |
Here is the Dyna Ignition Switch/Steering Lock Combo 71421-90B vs Buell M2 Y0610.D, The Dyna lock combo does come with two keys, I just pulled these images off Google.   | ||
| Super_dooper |
So I've managed to fix my issue with the lock my filing it out and filling in the damaged part with the mig. I've now started replacing the engine mount and low and behold one of the mount bolts has snapped along with a section of the head. I'm thinking the best option would be to extract the bolt then to weld up the cracked section? Cheers SD | ||
| Super_dooper |
And here's a pic of the cracked head and snapped bolt.  | ||
| Victory |
Send this kind of work to https://wefixharleys.com/ AKA Superior cycles in Wisconsin. They are the go to for old case cracks. Saving Antique cases and other vintage motors. THEY KNOW. |
