| Author | Message | ||
     Lynrd |
So...the floating front rotor on my 95S2 (which was actually the 2002 S3T style) doesn't float. It felt weird on the bike, so to test I removed it, filled a bathtub with water, and putthe rotor in. It went straight to the bottom of the tub. Floating rotor my eye! But,,,,seriously. It really doesn't float. It is behaving like a warped rotor, but being a floater I thought it might somehow be frozen in a catywampus orientation. Anyone ever seen this? And if so, could it be corrected without replacing the rotor? I assume the fix might be something along the lines of soak it with Aero-kroil and wang it with a great big rawhide faced sledgehammer. Is there anything more refined, and should I calibrate the sledge hammer first? | ||
| Jayvee |
If it's rotor on a carrier with buttons, I would expect there's a way to take the rotor off the carrier, but I've never done it. I vaguely remember a Buell update to the rotor buttons, it's for older bikes than 2002, but it shows taking off the buttons on the instruction sheet. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/B010-263557.pdf (Message edited by jayvee on May 21, 2021) | ||
| Victory |
You need an updated OEM or the Wave. I would never want to give an excuse for my front brake to work less than 100 percent. Sucks that they cost that much. The Arlen Ness are not high quality rotors either. just a FYI. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
You could try to free the bobbins like this method and see if things improve. https://youtu.be/mZ0cVRfw14A | ||
| 34nineteen |
I've heard the opposite about the earlier rotors. They "float" too much and rattle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSrJzyGiw9w | ||
| Two_seasons |
Make sure you have the correct wheel/bearing spacers on both sides of the wheel! The longer spacer goes to the rotor side. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
My rotor (early style) was warped when I got my bike. Replaced it with an EBC which ended up warping pretty quick anyway. I feel like you could try loosening yours up, but I wouldn't involve a hammer! Maybe a vise or a c clamp could loosen something up. If not, I've gotta assume you could grind out the old ones and find somewhere that sells rivets the right size. I did a quick search on Google and see some for sale, you'd just have to check the diameter of yours. | ||
| Normthenomad |
A floating rotor doesn't have to move much, we're talking a few thousandths just to keep the rotor square with the pads. H-D in '99 cut a lot of the rotor away when they went to 4 piston calipers so it would flex just enough to accomplish this. They were to cheap to install a floating rotor from the factory, they would sell you a true floating rotor from the accessory catalog though. | ||
| 34nineteen |
My 2016 Roadster came with floating rotors stock. | ||
| Lynrd |
So did my 1995 S2. IT took HD a long time to put decent brakes on a factory bike, but it wasn't an issue since they are such slow, heavy, under engineered pieces of crap. Did your Sportster come with 6 piston, differential bore Calipers as well? Inverted forks? No? You should have bought a Buell. (Message edited by Lynrd on May 22, 2021) | ||
| Thunderrat |
My 1995 Bad Boy springer had a floating rotor on the front wheel  | ||
| 34nineteen |
Did your Sportster come with 6 piston, differential bore Calipers as well? Inverted forks? No? You should have bought a Buell. No, my Sportster came with dual discs, dual 2 piston calipers with a symmetrical bore size and an inverted fork. And I do own a Buell. I owned a few before I bought the Sportster, I owned 2 when I bought the Sportster, and have owned 5-6 Buells since then. The point was that HD did offer floating discs stock from the factory on some models, and not just through the accessory catalog. IT took HD a long time to put decent brakes on a factory bike I dont know if they really ever did. My Roadster setup worked OK for me, but I really dont push my bikes. My ZTL setup works great for me also. I'd be hard pressed to say which worked better.} (Message edited by 34nineteen on May 24, 2021) |
