| Author | Message | ||
     Tachometre |
I installed Motogadget mo.unit Blue (formerly m.unit blue) about a year ago and so far I have like it a lot. I installed it under a seat into Takashi aluminium enclosure and relocated ECM on top of it.   With mo.unit Blue you can replace most of fuses, but unfortunately I haven't figured how to get rid off fan or ECM fuses (those ones has to have live current even outputs of mo.unit have turned off). I also have a 1A fuse for ignition lock and 30A main fuse.  (Message edited by Tachometre on February 14, 2021) | ||
| Tachometre |
One reason was also to get rid off original handlebar controls. I used Motogadget 3-button mo.switches on both sides (along with Venhill 888 quick throttle and custom cables). I also run wiring through handlebar with mo.button to reduce amount of wiring.  Left controls: Hi beam on top, left signal on the bottom and horn is in the back.  Right controls: start on top (double-click is kill), right signal on bottom and garage opener is on the back.  | ||
| Tachometre |
Wiring diagram if someone is interested (Link to PDF-version here)  | ||
| Tachometre |
The mo.unit has separate speed sensor to record mileage and for trip and maintenance logs. I located it to swing arm to pick rotation from rear wheel. I replaced one brake disc bolt with magnetic one.  Unfortunately this is not reliable - some kilometers are missing from every trip. Maybe some interference with other brake disc bolts? | ||
| Tachometre |
Mo.unit Blue has also keyless go and alarm functions. The unlock/lock distance from phone can be adjusted as well as alarm behaviour. I also spare ignition lock, so the bike can be operated with key if phone is not available. And the lock still operates as a steering lock.   When using phone to unlock the bike, the ignition lock can be in OFF position. The power is switched on by pressing kill/start button once. | ||
| Tachometre |
Maintenance log and voltage/current monitor is another neat feature.    | ||
| Tachometre |
Working settings with the current wiring (can be done in app as well as with handlebar control buttons): Handlebar controls: Configuration A (5-button controls) Tail light: Standard Blinkers: Route controlled switch off Brake light: Permanently active Position light: Deactivated m.wave (soft blinkers): Deactivated Light: Engine start (low on after engine start) Output AUX1: active with ignition Output AUX2: active with ignition Kickstand: deactivated (I don't have kickstand switch) Parking light: AUX1 permanently active Also: clutch lever switch can not be connected, so engine can be started without clutch lever pulled. AUX1 is used for speedo and lights. AUX2 for fuel pump, injectors and ignition coil (the ignition output of mo.unit is for ECM only). Therefore AUX1 and AUX2 has to be active with ignition. (Message edited by Tachometre on February 14, 2021) | ||
| Tpehak |
So all those fuses are preprogrammed and you can not set your own fuses with necessary current? They need to include programmable fuses in the next generation of this unit. Make sure the unit reads the speed correctly, if it reads the speed wrong the distance will be wrong too. Maybe you need to adjust the unit settings like wheel diameter or circumference. You can discard that magnet sensor and connect the speed sensor wire from the speed sensor from Buell. The Buell speed sensor reads magnet impulses from the gearbox and has multiple impulses per wheel rotation so you have to adjust the unit settings accordingly to read the speed properly. On 2008-2010 Buell XB the clutch lever switch is connected to ECM. (Message edited by TPEHAK on February 14, 2021) | ||
| Tachometre |
There should be more AUX outputs in mo.unit. If I remember correctly, Buell ignition circuit is 15A and mo.unit ignition output is 10A. Therefore I separated ECM and other ignition/fuel related into two outputs. The mo.unit wants negative passive speed signal and buell RPM signal is active (5V three wire sensor). So I think it isn’t compatible. My bike is 2007, so the clutch lever switch is different. Correct speed for mo.unit is adjusted by pressing horn three times when driving 50 km/h, so there is no wheel size settings. | ||
| Tpehak |
If it shows shorter distance than you ridden then you can ride slower than 50 km/h and calibrate it again and see how it affects the distance reading. | ||
| Tachometre |
I have tried with slightly slower speed but it still drops some distance compared to gps data (significant difference 10-20%). Let's see after winter, with 40-45 km/h set value. But I'm afraid the problem might be that the unit might not register all signal from sensor. The gap between sensor and magnet should be right. | ||
| Tachometre |
I contacted to Motogadget support and seems the original speed sensor might work against my original assumption (normal Motogadget speedos are not working with 5V sensors in most cases, but mo.unit seems to be different). I’ll test that after winter along with recalibration. |
