| Author | Message | ||
     Midknyte |
'02 X1, race kitted, plain ol' 20/50 dino blood, battery tendered... So, this is just an observation right now. I don't think anything is really wrong. (It behaved the same way last year): I Stabil'ed all of my bikes, running each for a few minutes to let the treated gas cycle thru the engine. The Lightning would not start, giving me a clacking that is associated with a bad battery. It did the same thing to me last year, yet it fired up like a champ in the spring. So I'm wondering - are these bikes just temperamental in colder weather? Does the race kit make cold weather starting an issue? Is 50 to 60 degrees weather too cold for it to crank over with 20/50? Should I get a different battery for it (it's only 3 or 4 years old)? And side question - should I be running synthetic with the race kit? Bless me with your collective wisdom. Thanks!  | ||
| 34nineteen |
I would have the battery charged and load tested at a place that sells motorcycle batteries. Not necessarily a auto parts store. You also should check the cable ends and ground points. | ||
| Bsanorton |
Even on a tender my batteries don't last past 4 or 5 years in Florida because of the heat. And because of the cranking power needed the ones in my Buells are the 1st to go. The battery tenders green light can be on, but the heat gets to them and I get what you describe. I'd imagine in colder regions you'd get the same effect if not more intensified because of the cold oil in the sump. Are your connections clean? | ||
| 89rs1200 |
My Buells are all carbureted, so I cannot speak to the fuel injected system. What I can say is: ~ I ride till the temperature drops below 17 degrees Fahrenheit. Have for decades. My Buells are reluctant to start in the cold, but they do, and run fine. ~ The clutch plates will stick together if motor is sitting for a time. Before starting, place in first gear. While holding the clutch in, rock motor back and forth until the clutch plates release. ~ Then, in third gear or higher, with clutch out, gently rock motor forward to get the pistons to move in the cylinders. This ensures the rings are broke loose from the walls of the cylinders. Should hear air escaping from the exhaust at least once. ~ I have used regular 20/50 oils but prefer synthetic in the engine and transmission. Synthetics just provide smoother shifting, starting, and running. Also tubers use Sport Trans fluid in the transmission. ~ Battery should be left on a battery tender, not a battery charger, when not in use. Lead/acid batteries will discharge themselves internally. So your battery will last much longer if on a tender. | ||
| Akbuell |
First things first. Hook up a multimeter and look at the battery voltage while trying to start. I suspect you will se a reading of 10.5V or less, making the battery suspect. So as 34ninteen suggests, a charge and load test. If you want, while waiting you can take and jumper the bike from a Non Running car, and see how it does. Probably wouldn't hurt to throw new relays into the system, if they haven't been changed in a while. Especially since it has acted this way before. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Now that there is age on your motor you should do what I have had to do for all my tubers; There will be corrosion on the ignition switch connector. May not see it, but putting a voltmeter from the battery, across the switch to a component, such as light, expect a voltage drop of over 0.5 volts. That is not good! This voltage drop will: Cause relays to look bad, cause all sorts of electrical problems, overload the alternator stator and cause it to burn out. Measure by: ~ Turning on the switch. ~ Measure and note the battery voltage. ~ Measure voltage from the plus side of the battery, across the switch to a component. ~ Subtract those two readings so show voltage drop. SO, Pull the ignition connector apart and use connector cleaner on both sides. Then add a liberal amount of White Lithium Grease to keep the oxidation out. Also, unbolt and clean: The battery ground to frame, and engine ground strap. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I wired in a cheap(Under $10) voltmeter to my bike this past season, just 2 wires for hot and ground, and it'll give you constant updated on your battery once you turn the key. I put it on after hearing people talk about charging issues that left them stranded, but it's mostly nice to turn the key in the morning and see that my battery is good to go. My bike has a carb, so it can be a little tough to start when it's cold, but I'll typically ride with the temp down to 35 degrees or so and don't really ever have a problem with it starting. I do occasionally get that horrible clacking noise instead of the engine firing up, but that's more embarrassing than anything else when a neighbor is outside haha. 50-60 degrees has never really given me any issues. There is a chart in the owners manual that will tell you what weight oil you should be using. The ratings are: Below 40F: 10w40 Above 40F: 20w50 Above 60F: SAE50 Above 80F: SAE60 I run 20w50 all year and ride anywhere from 35-95ish. | ||
| Two_seasons |
And don't forget to do this every time you stop the engine...kill switch to off and then ignition key. | ||
| Hootowl |
The clacking can sometimes be the starter solenoid ring contact not making contact with the side contacts; what you're hearing is the plunger. If your battery is good, disconnect it and check the side contacts for wear. They erode such that the ring contact on the plunger will not make contact with them. (Once side wears faster than the other.) They're cheap enough to replace, and it can be done, with a bit of patience, without removing the starter. | ||
| Hootowl |
More info: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/583070.html#POST1878949 | ||
| Victory |
I am around the great lakes. Never used gas stabalizeer. Run full charges sometime in winter or small charges with a 6 / 2 volt charger No battery tender. I try to make sure I buy a fresh Yuasa when I need to. This one has been in for 2-3 years maybe more. 20/50 full syn V twin Mobil 1 Its been in the midwest rust belt for 19 years. My X1 Race Kit always starts up easy but doing stretches of dead sleep it will still start up great with a full charged battery. Keep the throttle open a little bit for about 15 seconds and she will sit and idle to warm up as if BRAND NEW. Perfect Timing Good intake seals and a perfect battery. Black Betty has always been ready. | ||
| Midknyte |
 Thanks! |
