| Author | Message | ||
     Notsofastblast |
i recently swapped the rear shock with a 2000 cbr600 shock. when i installed it all i did was shve down the shocks eyelet so it would fit the blast, re-drilled the lower mount and bolted it in upside down. the shock is set to soft on all settings and the ride is so much better and i love how much taller the bike is. my belt has a tad bit more slack in it but i have no problems with it slipping at all. my real dilemma is that my kickstand is now about 3-4" to short and its a real p.i.t.a.i have been using (2) 2x4s screwed together to make the kickstand taller, but its a pain having to carry wood around with you just to be able to park your bike. not to mention if you fill your tank and park it there goes 1/4 of your tank onto the ground lol i was thinking of buying this adjustable kickstand but im not sure if the angle of the foot will be correct or not https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Adjustable-Alumi num-Motorbike-Kickstand/dp/B07VMQ6T4X/ref=pd_rhf_e e_p_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PP8A4KF4ZBNT ZRJV4Z05 thoughts? | ||
| Ahampton128 |
Have you looked around for a Ulysses stand? | ||
| Notsofastblast |
Are they taller? I looked around to see if anyone has asked about this before and havent had any luck finding any answers. | ||
| Ezblast |
Must be - they have more ground clearance. EZ | ||
| Notsofastblast |
So looking into the Ulysses kickstand, it seems to be the same length. I tried that adjustable one... but it is literally the same size  i dont know what to do other than cut and fabricate the shock mounts to lower the bike more. It sucks because im a tall guy and i like the height of the bike now. | ||
| Missionbolts |
Sooo, you would consider cutting your suspension mounts totally off the frame, fabricate custom mounts and radically alter the way the bike rides, instead of cutting the kickstand in half and welding in a length of steel bar, then grinding it down into a matching taper & refinishing it so nobody could tell what had been done.... | ||
| Notsofastblast |
Eh. The bike needs to be lowered a bit to take a little slack out of the belt. But i get what you mean. I should just make my own kickstand though. | ||
| Missionbolts |
Just thinking that making a shock mount & welding it into place is a lot more involved than adding an inch or so to the kickstand So a more balanced approach is to do some of both? Can you get what you need just by adjusting the rear pre-load? Or is it already lowered? It's very likely that your changes will put the bikes height into a in-between requirement for the kickstand length Making a kickstand will allow doing a better job than just bolting something on. You can use the existing mount for starters. That eliminates all question over if it bolts onto the bike or not Simply making the arm longer will result in it sticking out more when it's raised. So you might want to alter the stops so it tucks in more. That will also mean you would want to make a longer handle so your foot can still get a purchase & pull the arm out. I've always thought that the wire rod Buell used was just a touch too slippery. There's been a few times my foot slipped off of that and I wound up fumbling the kickstand down. A piece of flat bar with teeth cut into it would be nice to have right on the outer tip of the handle Once in a while I ride my Blast out into the Olympic forest. parking it can sometimes be an issue because the kickstand sinks in soft or loose soil  I've been thinking about welding a larger landing pad on the end. This was above 3000' on a spur road most maps don't show, near Mt Jefferson. I hiked up to the lake that's right at the peak that day For your purposes, that may not be what you need, but you might consider other options like having a flexible pad with a rubber face on it so the bike sticks to the ground better when you park it | ||
| Notsofastblast |
so i defiantly agree with you that fabing a new stand would be easiest. but with my bike raised from the cbr shock, i either need a SLIGHTLY shorter belt (2 or 3 teeth?) or fabricate a new top shock mount.(i already did the lower mount) i plan on swapping to the xb9 tail soon so the fab work on the shock doesnt bother me because i already have a lot ahead of me, but i really like having the bike taller now. since i raised the bike i deleted the kickstand switch, shaved the mount down, and now my kickstand hits my swingarm. i zip tied a piece of a microfiber to temporarily get rid of the chatter. but i do need to weld a stop for the stand. any recommendations on material to use? id like my bike to be as light as possible, but obviously the stand needs to be strong enough to hold up the bike | ||
| Notsofastblast |
Heres some pics   | ||
| Missionbolts |
In the 2nd pic, I see a gap between the stop & kickstand, just above the spring Weld a small bead onto the stop, or to the kickstand leg while removed, to keep it from touching the swingarm. I had a XR250 with that problem. The bolt that held the kickstand on was worn out from all the miles it saw, so the swingarm had a hole from where the kickstand wore into it. Swingarm was aluminum, much softer than the steel kickstand. I used a Harbor Freight wire feed with fluxcore wire to put a lot of steel onto the stop, then ground it down until it worked right. I remember needing to re-weld it after grinding off a bit too much. When I was done, it had been ground flat & square and it looked like brand new I see some forums talking about adjusting that CBR shock. The adjusting ring sticks when under a load, so you should raise the tail of the bike off the ground to let the suspension drop freely all the way down. That'll unload the spring a little and make turning the adjuster easier When I broke my drive belt riding in deep snow, I looked at using an off the shelf industrial replacement. This is yet one more thing that Eric Buell got wrong. He used an oddball size belt that costs more. If he had simply made the swingarm 1/4" longer, he could've used a common size belt for half the price. For what was supposed to be a low-cost entry level bike, I don't understand what flavor coolaid they were drinking! The Blast uses a belt with an odd number of teeth. Standard belts with that tooth profile all come in even number tooth counts. And they are wider, so the entire pulley width can be used plus being harder to break and longer lasting I think stretching the swingarm is called for on a custom like yours. That'll lower the ride height just from the extra leverage against the rear spring, and make the bike a bit less 'darty' out on the highway Also might help increase the number of tire options with the extra clearance between tire & swingarm up front | ||
| Notsofastblast |
the shock is as soft and low as it goes, the bikes seat is about 32" high now. the stock kickstand stop is obviously to far back because the swing arm is angled lower. i have already thought about putting a bead on the mount, but unfortunately i dont have my welder here because my garage is to small. or else i would have already done that when im not on the bike i can actually push the belt right off the pulley  i have the wider tire option (viper stryke am63 140/70-16) and have a matching 110 - i still need to put on lol | ||
| Missionbolts |
Ok, then it's the kickstand arm you would add a bead to. Remove that, take it to where your welder is. Then carefully use a grinder to fit it back into place, when you take it back to where the bike is | ||
| Notsofastblast |
just a little update... since I'm prepping for a rearset build, yesterday I cut off a little of the backside of the kickstand bracket and drilled a hole through it. I found a small bolt and used spacers to make a kickstand stop. surprisingly it actually worked out a lot better than I thought it would and in pretty happy with it. as far as a taller kickstand goes, I'm thinking about buying an aluminum rod and making my own so I can make it EXACTLY the length I need. it will be easy to cut the top mounting point, ill add a long bolt for the (foot bar? opener?) - screw it, you know what I mean  and as far as the kickstand foot goes, ill figure that out when I get to it lol | ||
| Missionbolts |
Toe bar? I'd be a bit worried about the aluminum being strong enough What about using this instead: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hamilton-Model-43-Rifle-b arrel-used/233737239269?hash=item366bd33ae5:g:Zm8A AOSwISBfc9Ud Or maybe this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GLENFIELD-Model-60-Used-2 2-L-R-Barrel-22-Long-125/254545432559?hash=item3b4 4170fef:g:l44AAOSwOfFec7Sr I just think steel is better, and having a nice taper already in place helps | ||
| Notsofastblast |
yea, toe bar is probably the correct term lol I get what your saying, I want a thick solid stand and I had the same thought about if aluminum would be strong enough for it. I'm fine with using steel but didn't want to add to much unnecessary weight. | ||
| Missionbolts |
Well, if you were to keep the stock kickstand, but add steel to reach the right length, it couldn't be more than a pound extra The extra weight won't be noticed, but a loss of strength sure will get your attention! Solid aluminum bar will at least have less compromise than tube. Myself, I'd prefer not worrying about finding my bike on it's side & the tank dumped out through the carb when I'm out in the forest. That weight will not alter how the rear wheel tracks the pavement | ||
| Notsofastblast |
In my head i was thinking of a solid aluminum bar lol. Im not that great at explaining things But ill probably go with steel just to make sure its strong enough. Id rather just make a new one from scratch and make it the way i want it rather than Frankenstein the oem one and not like the way it looks Ill probably go look around at the local hardware shops and see if i can find one that will work and ill let you guys know | ||
| Missionbolts |
Well, 'rod' wasn't really a 'tube' after all! If you aren't 100% just yet on what length you need, maybe a temporary kickstand could be welded up? I would just use some welded seam schedule 40 tubing, weld a nut on the end and use a bolt as the foot. Then you could adjust that to the right length you need | ||
| Notsofastblast |
What would you recommend for thickness of a steel rod? 3/4”? | ||
| Missionbolts |
3/4" if you're milling it down into a custom I-beam or something artistic A plain rod with no taper, I'd go with 1/2" But then again, I'm leaning towards using 3/8" rebar for myself... | ||
| Notsofastblast |
I would definitely make it a custom cut stand, i just dont want to buy one to thin and have it not hold up and come out to my bike taking a nap lol. I found a 3/4” by 36” steel rod on amazon for $20.38 with free shipping. compared to other sites that seems to be the best price i can find. | ||
| Missionbolts |
Well, I'd only use 3/8" rebar because I already have some. But that deal on amazon sounds good. I think the local muffler shop charges a lot more than that. But they also prefer to sell 20' lengths of whatever they have. There's a bigger steel supplier an hour away, but I would expect them to also charge a good bit more than that. I think I'll keep Amazon in mind for future metal working projects | ||
| Notsofastblast |
I moved to a new part of the state last year so i dont know of anywhere to find metal or wood thats not your typical big name stores. I checked lowes and home depot but they didnt have anything close to the size i wanted - unless i got a threaded rod. And i didnt feel like putting the time into that lol. But im looking for around 19” give or take so i at least needed 24” to work with. I also dont mind having the extra as im sure ill find a good use for it. Ill post some pictures when i start getting things together. |
