| Author | Message | ||
     Notsofastblast |
Im wiring in an aem afr 30-4110 on my blast. Obviously this wasnt really meant for a bike but the instructions leave me a little confused. Obviously i have power and a ground, but what is the (white 0-5v output) for? Do i need to hook this up to something specifically? I know on cars most of the time this is spliced into the ecm harness. I tried running it with the white un used and it keeps tweaking out and doesn’t seem to work properly. But i do need to replace the o2 sensor (Theyre known for being bad from the factory) Heres a link to the instructions for the exact model i have. https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/avm-30-4110.pdf Thank you for any and all help!  | ||
| Missionbolts |
The instructions say that the white wire is there in order to supply an O2 input signal to a 'EMS' (Engine Management System), which is what you would be doing if you were replacing the carb with a fuel-injected setup Both blue & white wires should be taped off and left alone, that ought to work just fine. Maybe you need a new sensor? | ||
| Notsofastblast |
Thats what i thought. I tried connecting to a different power supply to see if it might have not had a great connection where it was, ill try again tomorrow. If it doesnt work any better ill go buy a new sensor on my ride | ||
| Missionbolts |
I have a LC-1 wideband controller from Innovate Motorsports. It doesn't include a display like what you have, but it's otherwise the same thing. The LC-1 has a data input/output, and two O2 signal outputs. Both O2 outputs can be switched to either emulate the signal from an OEM sensor, or output a linear 0~5 signal. The idea was to be able to make use of a factory O2 location, swapping out the old narrow band sensor for a wideband, yet still supply the vehicles existing ECU with a normal looking signal so the car wouldn't go into limp-home mode There's also the ability to send the ECU a spoofed O2 signal to make the ECU think it's running too lean. That tricks it into opening-up the injector duty cycle for more power The 2nd O2 signal would be used to either drive an AFR meter, or other devices. That opens up all sorts of mischief! Like using the AFR to modify the behavior of a variable-speed brushless fuel pump in order to alter fuel pressure on-the-fly. Or maybe tone-down a 3-stage nitrous system when the car isn't up in it's highest gear yet You could use the LC-1, or your AEM's 0~5 signal, along with a Microsquirt and an ITB to convert your bike to fuel injection. Then say goodbye to constant carb teardowns & endless hair-pulling wondering which jet or fuel circuit is to blame! Fuel injection can help mitigate the grossly oversized intake port's low-speed inversion issues, by simply ignoring that condition. Of course that can be band-aid fixed by installing a splitter plate, but I'd rather keep the airflow unblocked A CV carb can help a little with the inversion at idle, by dropping the slide further closed during each positive pressure pulse that reaches backwards to the carb, but the mass of the slide is still too high to move fast enough. At idle with the velocity stack removed, you can look across the carb inlet and see the fuel vapor puffing outwards at the end of each intake valve opening cycle. It helps to see this if you have a black backdrop, such as the stock airbox with it's lid removed That would also be the opportunity to do something about the goofy idea of running a carb outwards into the riders leg. Compared to less turnable highway cruisers, I'm sure it was seen as radically tucked-in. But compared to other nations sport bikes, it's still getting complaints right here on this board about how it interferes with the right leg | ||
| Notsofastblast |
has anyone actually converted over to FI? how difficult is it and what TB would you use? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check out BRO “Buell Riders Online”. Quite a few have. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Easiest way I know of is to use an XB9 top end and half the fuel injection system. But that’s all I know. There are certainly more options. | ||
| Missionbolts |
Sounds like I might have added more problems to this project! I haven't converted a bike of any size or type, so I'd like to see anybody pitch-in here on having actually dealt with the little details But, what I would do if I were doing this is to make use of the existing CV carb & convert that into a ITB setup. Several reasons for this including that it's already got all the mounting issues dealt with, already has a TPS, and doing the conversion isn't really that hard Something that I actually have done years ago is chop-up a 35mm CV carb I got from a motorcycle wrecking yard in Port Orchard, WA called Sound Cycle, run by a guy who knows me by name: Tom Jones. Also the place where I bought my Blast I converted the carb to propane. I used a die grinder to remove the entire float bowl, leaving only the central post where the main jet & emulsion tube would go. I JB Welded all fuel & air bleed passages closed, leaving the air & vacuum passages for the slide. I closed off the little ports after the butterfly that are for idle & cold starting. I drilled out the main jet passage so it was a constant bore and JB Welded some brass tubing inside that, then made a slide valve to fit the tubing, attaching to the main slide by JB Welding the upper portion of the old needle, into the slide valve. What I did to connect propane to the slide valve is proprietary, including how the valve works. I fed that carb with a modified forklift regulator. Basically just removing a safety shutoff so it would flow at all times. It's a demand style regulator that opens at less than 1" water. My application was a 5HP lawnmower engine. That all worked, but I needed a way to change the timing curve & advance for the ignition and left it unfinished So I know that modding the Blast carb to use a fuel injector isn't that big a deal. I would place the injector underneath in the area where the float bowl would be, aimed forwards at a 45 and enter the airflow immediately after the butterfly. Keeping the injector upstream from the rubber intake boot will help prevent heat from affecting the injector At low throttle openings, the airflow will be more focused right at the tip of the injector, which will help mix the fuel when the injector is operating slow enough that it's not making a very finely atomised spray pattern I would consider keeping the vacuum operated slide as a way to regulate airflow, but then I would want to have the TPS operating from the slide, instead of the butterfly. That could allow placing the injector further back, so it sprays just after the trailing edge of the slide Otherwise, you might conside chopping the carb in half in order to drop-in a 30 degree elbow and get the intake back inside the bike, or just slam some tubing through the bore to close off the slide openings. Or cut the carb in half, move the inlet forwards and maybe tilt that inwards some To buy an ITB, you would want to consider the airflow of the Blast engine. Minimum & maximum airflow. Then compare that against applications that have the same flow rates per cylinder. This means you can look at much bigger inline fours, even engines that typically run 10,000 rpm's or more. All that matters is the flow rates required You can assume that if gasoline is being used, that it's likely being used at very much the same AFR's as what the Blast needs. You could also assume that a 20% greater airflow street-legal setup will equate to a Blast sized track only setup, as you probly want to run richer than emission laws would allow a factory to get away with You want to make full use of a controller like the Microsquirt, so you will want to use some additional sensors. A MAP sensor is very important. Ranking pretty much as #2 after the TPS. Air temp and then maybe the O2 signal I remember seeing some talk about enabling a knock sensor, but this was years ago when I was doing the Megasquirt thing. Having a knock sensor would be really nice to automatically pull back on an overly aggressive timing advance curve. So I don't know at the moment if that's easy or not I would recommend going fuel only to begin with, until you get to a point where the ignition timing curve needs to be dealt with At this time, you would get rid of the Blast ignition module and install something nice like a hall effect pickup, or something a bit more glitchy like a standard magnetic pickup. (magnetic pickups have lots of noise, change voltage & waveform shape depending on RPM and sometimes will do unexpected things. I learned this the hard way on a 1983 CB650: cross-talk between two different pickups played havoc(causing the bike to backfire & jump out of gear right after fast upshifts) on a GM ignitor conversion I did. Fixed it by grinding off a lot of metal from the factory stock timing wheel) You may want to fab up a timing wheel. The Microsquirt can make use of many different tooth patterns The most interesting part is probably doing the fuel supply. Having a typical bleed-off style fuel pressure regulator will require having a way to return fuel to the tank. You might be able to get away with just returning to the upstream side of an inline fuel pump. Or you might want to fabricate a two port petcock baseplate. I'm the sort who would just simply drill a hole in the top of the tank to put in a return line | ||
| Notsofastblast |
UPDATE: I re-wired the positive and ground to a switch (ground was poor) and got the new sensor today. I’ll upload pictures of where i put the o2 sensor tomorrow. Its right above the p clamp (because it says to keep the sensor 18” away from the head) it is definitely working a lot better. Now im just waiting on more jets in the mail and i can fine tune everything. | ||
| Notsofastblast |
Heres a pic of the sensor location  | ||
| Missionbolts |
Probly work fine at that spot Depending on a few variables, the location is a balance between far enough from the exhaust port to have a stable flow without too much temperature vs not so far that the exhaust cools down too much or encounters disruptions in the flow such as right where it enters the muffler | ||
| Notsofastblast |
it seems to be working alright so far, i guess i wouldnt really know if it was or not though lol | ||
| Missionbolts |
If the numbers on the meter change smoothly and do not jump randomly, then it'll be just fine. No weird turbulence or dead spots in the exhaust flow making the sensor read wrong A good wideband controller can change how fast it updates it's signal output, and how much signal smoothing it applies to the raw voltage input. If it's updating fast enough to keep matched to the engines change in RPM's, then that's fast enough. Too fast, and you're just going to be worrying over ghost signals in the exhaust flow. It's normal to have alternating rich/lean pockets flowing down the pipe. That's just what happens when the exhaust valve isn't always dumping combustion gasses all the time You could compare sparkplug readings against what the meter shows, or take the bike to a dyno and have them run another O2 sensor to see if both sensors read the same. Or buy a sensor and see if it reads different without changing anything on the engine. If a new sensor reads the same, then I would go back to the old sensor and save the new one for later on | ||
| Notsofastblast |
the new sensor is definitely working, i just meant as far as where the location is. | ||
| Notsofastblast |
Alright guys. Im stumped here. For some reason, after i switched my jetting from a 48 to a 45 (still 175) its running even richer than it did before. I just went riding around my town a little bit (almost got hit by someone cutting across 3 lanes without even looking) I did not hop on the highway and really get on it at all so im not sure how the top end is. But low end is definitely rough. Mid range wasnt horrible, was around high 11s. So should i move the clip on the needle one position higher? That would put it in the top position of the blue needle |
