| Author | Message | ||
     Mnscrounger |
Loctite RC609 it is specifically designed for less than ideal tolerances, but if you have a good fit you need to heat to around 375 to get it apart IIRC, the test data showed a .500 hole with a .498 pin 1" deep surface are needed something like 400lbs of force to knock it loose. I use it a lot at work, bacause I'm not as consistent as I'd like to be on manual equipment. broken exhaust stud, ish... | ||
| Missionbolts |
Nice! Spec sheet I just found sounds like this is a more proper choice than JB Weld. Buying some on ebay right now, thanks! | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I've decided what I'm going to do about rear brakes. I have to make an adapter hub to mate the large 60 T, 5 bolt sprocket to the 18" KZ 1000P front wheel's 7 bolt rotor pattern anyway, so I will make one for each side, ( it is a dual disc wheel) I can drill a 4 bolt pattern for the second one to mate the Kawasaki carrier and rotor from the 19" KZ 750 single rotor front wheel, and use that in back. There is little difference in the diameter of the rotors from the KZ 750 rotor to the XB12 rear rotor, and the thickness is near identical. I can either make a relocation bracket for the caliper, or if I get lucky just turn down the OD of the Kawi rotor a bit, (if it fits in my lathe). | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Two weeks ago, I bought a rusty 8" rotary table off of FB, and cleaned it all up in preparation for wheel work. Last weekend at the cabin I fell asleep on the couch, woke up at 3, turned off the TV and went to bed. I then began to toss N turn. With no noise to distract it, my brain went into a flurry of random things. The question of how to adapt a Blast 5 bolt front brake rotor onto a seven spoke cast wheel kept surfacing. I had thought I worked it out how to machine the carrier a few weeks ago, but never really liked the method and envisioned final look. by 4:00 I realized I was not going to get to sleep until i had a plan. so I got up and started thinking and sketching. Within a few minutes, I had a plan worked out and started doing the math. It looks a bit convoluted on pink construction paper, ( the only thing I could find at 4:00AM) but I think its going to be a better looking design, and while more steps, and more parts, each is less complex than the multi step single part cylindrical carrier I was originally envisioning. Yesterday I went to the metal supply retail house I usually go to and picked up about 75.00 worth of stock to start cutting adapters and carriers. This is going to get interesting. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Over the weekend I finally got around to making the wheel adapter to get the front on the rotary table. I couldn't stop until I had all the bosses machined and holes drilled for the rotor carrier. Next time out there since I have already found the X,Y coordinates relative to the rotary table center, I will start in on making the actual carrier.  | ||
| Mnscrounger |
The front rotor carrier is done, and looks like it will work just fine, but I need to use different Gr.8 bolts than the OEM, I need 5mm shorter, and the shoulder on them is unnecessary, since the carrier supports the disc all the way around instead of the disc only being supported at the spoke mountings. I will use the crush washers under the heads though. Next step is to make 14 identical spacers to set the carrier the right distance relative to the caliper.I picked up an almost new Shinko 804 19" front with a tube a few weeks ago. I still am on the hunt for a set of Blast throttle cables. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Today the brake carrier and rotor was mocked up onto the wheel, to determine the correct spacer length. There is only half the hardware, (and none of it is the right kind), but I have the correct dimensions for everything. It turns, and the caliper is centered on the pins. Shimming might be needed to eliminate about .025" runout, but I can let that go till its on the road. I learned a few other things in the mockup. The fender will need to mount to the lower triple, the horn needs to move somewhere else for relocated fender clearance, and the new setup will gain another 2-3 inches of ground clearance. I'm very close to actually doing the fork swap.    | ||
| Missionbolts |
Nice work! Kinda curious if you're running the engine with that particular exhaust setup... | ||
| Mnscrounger |
No the can is off for route planning. Here is todays photo and a cut/paste from FB.: Todays project clean up and install the Pro series air cleaner one of my fellow Buell riders offered me. supposedly this makes the most power for the Blast of all the air cleaners out there and it tucks in so nice and tight, I'm rethinking exhaust routing. I am moving away from the long route under the bike and up the left side to avoid the drive chain, now am considering a high mounted pipe left side exhaust like the shorty exhaust on Indian 750 flat track bikes.   | ||
| Missionbolts |
I'd love to take that Indian out on an all day ride! I wasn't really that serious about the open pipe! But something I've been thinking about trying on the Blast for muffler solutions is to ditch the rules & do something different And on here, the rules are you must either stay with the stock exhaust or put a race muffler underneath the engine, being careful to not draw outside the lines! Well, my idea requires building a muffler from scratch. And even worse, I want to fit the muffler into the space right behind the front wheel with it dumping out into the open air at a 45 rearwards under the engine & into the pavement There will be a skidplate to protect the bottom of the engine. The oil filter will get relocated The muffler I'm thinking of will be shaped somewhat like a forward-raked side fairing, with wings that clear the wheel & fender at all suspension heights & steering angles Take a good look at the radiator on that Indian & think to yourself, this is almost the muffler I'm describing. Except it'll be sitting 4" lower & extend forwards about halfway into the tires beltline This muffler will not interfere with your legs, or impair ground clearance. It will be totally out of the way of everything The main engineering challenge is to fab up a mounting bracket that uses the bushing eye under the engine and the pair of bolts up on the head where the upper frame mount attaches. It should completely replace that upper mount so the upper bushing is sitting on one solid piece that attaches to the bottom of the engine as well as the top of the head Part of the reason I would want to do things this way is I don't like the way that upper mount is able to rock up & down on the bolts. Both of mine snapped, by the way. Par for the course I think. My bike either loses bolts, strips them, or just breaks them in half! | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I recall you mentioning that muffler idea in an earlier post. Its weird but it makes sense. IF I understand your description, the outlet would face forward? Forgive my off-road naiveite, but could the outlet get plugged, with mud and other goo, would the exhaust pulses keep it cleaned out, or would you use some kind of louver to keep it from collecting what the tire kicks up? I also thought about the filter, and was thinking about a skid plate & filter cover in the same vein as the Dean Adams Design one for the XB. but with the pipe routed high, and the exhaust out back, a skid plate isn't really needed for anything but style,( a worthy investment for its own sake, but I'm trying to make function drive design). I do wonder if the filter cover Dean sells is available independent of the skid plate kit, and if it would fit without mods. That makes it a worthy consideration. | ||
| Missionbolts |
Out of focus, as I'm supposed to be heading out right now and rushing this  Side view & top view. Muffler is not drawn to scale, in a hurry. I'm only showing the rough outline of what I mean. Exhaust exit is downwards and aimed rearwards. Exhaust is intended to flow underneath the engine, so it doesn't blast your feet when stopped. The flow could also help at high speeds to create a guiding effect to air that is coming off of the sides of the front tire/ or in reverse, airflow from the front tire can create low-pressure zones on either side of the exhaust flowpath in order to help the engine breathe. This concept of the dual-effect of exhaust & airflow helping each other is a basic design of 1st-place bikes on the track | ||
| Mnscrounger |
It makes sense from a design standpoint, but I don't think I've ever seen a front mounted exhaust done on anything but my lawn tractor. My reservations are mostly based on my impression of "style",( The muffler is not where it's always been...). I also wonder if your design could also reduce cooling airflow past the cylinder. | ||
| Missionbolts |
What I am suggesting is to break away from the 'old school' Buell riders & try something innovative that breaks the rules & pushes the boundaries of 'conventional wisdom' 'Style' does not always mean copying previous work. It can also be doing something different with a clean & well thought out execution As for cooling airflow being blocked, I see no issue there. The muffler will not be large enough to actually prevent airflow from reaching the engine. It's shape can even improve airflow to the engine while at speed. The forward swept sides can act like scoops, collecting & directing air to the center, where it can flow up & over the top of the muffler directly into the cylinder head Any heat coming off of the muffler will only add a very small percentage to the ambient air temp running across the cooling fins Keep in mind my sketch is only a rough outline and not intending to show what the final build will look like This idea might even provide an advantage to the bigger Buells, as it means the bike could be set lower to the pavement & improve airflow between the front wheel & engine Airflow under this muffler can be used with a venturi effect to help evacuate the muffler in between positive pressure pulses, while the peaks of the exhaust pressure pulses can help guide airflow rearwards. I think a track/autobahn version might want to split the exhaust with the intent of avoiding building a lifting body of air directly under the bike | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I'm not arguing your science, (I don't think I'm qualified). My reservations are purely based on traditional and possibly illogical styling "needs". Buells are different anyway, I hope you get to try it out. If it actually works better. I'll bet even Erik would approve. IMHO, If he approved the 1125 pods, clearly style takes a back seat to actual performance. As an update to my project: I had planned to build my own relocated rearsets, but last week I ran across a set of Banke performance ones with Millenium pegs. I couldn't resist. I spent more than I wanted to for rearsets, but their Banke's, and using these will save me about 16-20 hrs of fabrication. given I'm only spending 8-10nhrs per month this investment put me 3-4 months ahead of schedule. (At least. that's what nI tell myself.) | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Change in plans originally the rear was going to use the single rotor from the 19" KZ wheel, but that plain rotor lacked style. i keeping with the front setup, the rear brakes will be Buell rotor and caliper assembly( in this case an XB) mated to the KZP 18" front wheel mounted in the Uly swingarm. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Rear brake rotor and drive pulley adapter bolt tab reliefs. The time to make the chuck adapter& setup took longer than the actual cutting. Lots of hand finishing to the tabs to do yet  | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I don't quite know how it happened, but the mounting holes relative to the wheel holes are off center on the rear adapters, I got the centers relocated, now I need to go after the holes and cover my goof tracks. I need to order more special sized hardware for the adapters, and the rearsets anyway, so I'm going to fill the wrong holes with aluminum threaded rod and retaining compound, then finish back to the original faces. I also got the front rotor carrier and the carrier spacers coated last night before the garage cooled down. I might be able to put the front wheel all together for final assembly next time I'm out there. Heres a pic of the new (to me) Banke rearsets.  | ||
| Mnscrounger |
The Blast front end is back on, (well with different bars and a KZ wheel)  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Cvc |
Nice work you are way ahead of my similar project I am still waiting on a swing arm and Uly forks, what are you doing with the gold wheels I have a silver rear and a red front would like a matching pair, How much lower gearing are you going to achieve with the chain conversion? I have been planning on using a stock belt and installing an xb primary cover with an aftermarket sporty primary to drop gearing 25% to get some better grunt with the 17" wheels . | ||
| Mnscrounger |
The front drive sprocket is a 520 chain 19 tooth, the rear sprocket is a 530 60 tooth. If I did all my math right, that gearing, even with the 120-90-18 tire diameter will still give me about 10% under drive compared to stock for better hill climbing, and low speed slogging. I would love to put a Rekluse auto-drive on it but I can't justify the cost. The whole XB12 front end and the rear wheel and XB9 swingarm, (but not that one, I have a later model), will become part of a mutant conversion on my S3 when it goes down for overhaul. I'm not sure but I thought the tooth pitch on the Sportster/XB and Blast belts are different. (Message edited by mnscrounger on March 22, 2021) | ||
| Mnscrounger |
The rear wheel and long swingarm are ready to mount, and the front chain sprocket is on. I just need to make an adapter for the head end of the Blast axle to clamp in the XB swing. I know I'm shortcutting a bit by using a 530 rear from a big twin, and a 520 front sprocket. I know that's not right but the Blast doesn't make a huge amount of power, and wide 530 chain on an aluminum rear should wear better in dirt and grit. The 520 front will have side to side slop, but a steel sprocket should hold up. If I did my math right I will need between 117-120 links of 530 chain. What kind of chain is the right kind for mixed riding on dirt and gravel? Does it matter? | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Well I hit another issue: The brake original rotor mounting tabs of the KZP wheel don't clear the rear brake caliper when its all bolted up. I need to make the hub of the wheel about 10mm narrower on the brake rotor side.That's not too bad the bearings in the wheel are offset the other way anyway. I also can space it over a little to avoid countersinking the screw heads of the adapter plates. There is not a lot of material out there so I don't want to make the adapter plate mounting tabs any thinner. They're going to be transmitting all the driving and braking forces from the tire to the hubs and vice versa There does not appear to be any clearance issues on the drive side, yet. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Well I hit another issue: The brake original rotor mounting tabs of the KZP wheel don't clear the rear brake caliper when its all bolted up. I need to make the hub of the wheel about 10mm narrower on the brake rotor side.That's not too bad the bearings in the wheel are offset the other way anyway. I also can space it over a little to avoid countersinking the screw heads of the adapter plates. There is not a lot of material out there so I don't want to make the adapter plate mounting tabs any thinner. They're going to be transmitting all the driving and braking forces from the tire to the hubs and vice versa There does not appear to be any clearance issues on the drive side, yet. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Machined down the brake side of the KZ wheel to clear the Blast brake caliper last night. It looks like I'll have plenty of clearance now. The adapter I made fits so much cleaner, and has less unsupported distance between the plate and the threads of the mounting holes of the wheel, I think I might cut down the pulley side a bit too. The downside is now I have to shorten all the bolts by 10mm too. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Plenty of caliper clearance now, but now that I can spin the wheel I see a new minor issue. There is a "wobble" in the junkyard rim. pegs on pavement in a 70 MPH corner this might be a problem, but on knobby tires in dirt under 50 I may not even notice it. | ||
| Ezblast |
XR headers fit - I'm sure you can figure supports. EZ  or  | ||
| _buelligan_ |
Definitely left side header | ||
| Mnscrounger |
EZ: "XR headers fit.." You don't say...I don't doubt your expertise, but that looks like an XR head on that first picture. The exhaust port is "dressed left". Blasts are "dressed right" like the second one. I'm not sure going across the front of the motor and mount will give me enough room for wheel and tire clearance under fork compression with that big 19" KZ wheel. Buelligan: I agree with that left side exhaust opinion. I was debating about routing through that wide open spot where a rear cylinder might have been to avoid all the oil lines and wiring on the right side. I doubt there would be too much heat imparted from the pipe to the carb bowl. I was just thinking about picking up some pre-bent chunks from the local auto parts stores and starting to do the layout over the next week or so. The rearsets are back on and final assembly of the wheels is done. Bill at Lightning Cycles, (Xbuell12s) will be getting the rims and tires for mounting this week or next. My goal is to get a trail ride before the snow flies. |
